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which reload books are the best?


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Posted

My wife picked me up an rcbs explorer reloading set for my b-day. I'm new to reloading and wanted some input on which books are the best for a beginner. Thanks in advance for any input!

Posted (edited)

The RCBS book, the Speer book, is really pretty good. Also, the images and the setup match your gear, so you'd be a leg up.

 

IMHO, you should read the front piece of the book before you begin, as well as the spec pages for the calibers you will reload.

Edited by QuietDan
Posted

i have the Lyman and Sierra manuals; i've never looked through the others.  The Lyman manual has good step by step instructions for pistol/rifle reloading from start to finish.  

the new Hornady manual is also supposed to be good.

 

youtube and members/threads on this forum are a good way to gain some knowledge too.  I'd recommend reading whatever manual(s) you get and watch videos or someone in person and ask questions...........all before loading your first round.

 

what types of cartridges will you be reloading?

Posted (edited)

Up to date ones and the other new one on your bench,  just to the left there on the shelf , there it is...........

 

"Rhodewarriors Reloading Notebook" 

 

every setup , every session every time you open a can of powder record your load data  there are forms online to help you set up but basically

 

Caliber  firearm used  round count

 

 Date   Bullet make/weight     Casing/trim length/times trimmed(rifle)    Powder/LOT # /charge weight    OAL/crimp  Primer   Purpose   Results (group size,reliability,flash/recoil etc.)

 

you can tab by caliber or by firearm  personal lot # (example M1917#3, M-586/Match AR153Gun)

 

Very important so you can see what was done and if it went right or wrong would hate to have found the "pet load" and forgot exactly what was done to get it as you change ANYTHING in a loaded round and it changes the dynamics completely

 

  also handy if you want to experiment crimp settings or OAL for accuracy or just see if mfg of bullet makes a difference to the Results column  some guns are sensitive some not so much

 

My S&W M-14 is pickier about ammo than my S&W M-586  same loads different results  the 52-2 a whole different beast

 

 easier to keep round count if you only have 1 firearm in that caliber and you see accuracy drop off at a given round count if it always drops at 600 or so for a rifle then you know about 550 or so plan a cleaning some folks plan recoil spring changes every so many rounds etc.

 

SIERRA LEE and LYMAN are good for me and I usually download the powder mfg. booklets 

 

a load gets worked up for each caliber and firearm the book is a good starting point but each gun will act differently Lets say for instance a load that works great in my M1917 will "pattern" out of my Garand or my 03A3 but the Garand load will shoot OK in the A3 but be hot in the 1917 (slight flattening of primers) so the ammo boxes are marked for each rifle

 

a cover page with powder and primer lot #s is also a good idea as sometimes there are recalls/warnings and you can verify at a glance without digging into each caliber to see if you have any of the suspect components loaded up.

 

you could also record the factory ammo lot #s if you have any and perhaps chronograph results if you want to try "cloning" a load

 

Enjoy your new sport and this fun part of it we call reloading,

 

John

 

P.S.  only 1 component on the bench at a time keep the rest stored away you DO NOT want to mix Bullseye with WW231  or mix a rifle powder by accident  it never ends well..

same goes for leaving powder in the measure put it back in the can when you are done then gauge/box the loaded ammo

 

NEVER close enough  Never I think maybe...  this is a game of absolutes  when in doubt pull them out( you have invested in a bullet puller I hope) your hands aren't worth the batch of ammo that might/might not be loaded correctly either a double charge ( grenade) or a squib ( barrel obstruction )

 

 the pressures some of these rounds operate at are in the thousands of PSI and overloads are even hotter I do not say this to scare you but make you aware of the inherent danger if you do not use proper procedures but by being focused and methodical the folks here have many,many years of experience and many thousands of rounds safely loaded and shot  ask any questions you like we all sat at a bench with a "new press in a box" at one time

Edited by LngRngShtr
  • Like 4
Posted

I don't have a bad reloading manual. The more the merrier. I like to cross check some loads across several different manuals.

Speer, Sierra, Hornady, Lyman, Lee, Nosler, Barnes, etc. They are all good. It is very good to have the reloading data for the exact bullet you are loading; not just one with a similar weight, because different materials and sifferent shapes can have a big effect on the load you'll want to use.

 

Most reloading stores will have free small maunals printed by different manufacturers. These can't be relied on for your only source of info, but do add more information, and since they are free, you might as well take them home.

 

Many manufacturers also have free load data available at their website. Again, not a substitute for, but a goos supplement to a manual.

Posted
Depends on the calibers you load. The common ones are in a books, but if you load oddball or obsolete/unusual military calibers then you will want to be sure the book has what you need. I like having 2 books to compare against - just in case
Posted

I HAVE .45ACP BRASS AND 7.62x39 BRASS(HAVE A MINI THIRTY THAT'S NOT FOND OF SURPLUS).  IS ONE EASIER TO LEARN ON THAN THE OTHER.

Not really. Neither is difficult, but they require different approaches. If you use a carbide sizing die for the 45, you won't need to lube your cases. If you run a 7.62x39 case through the sizing die unlubed, it will sieze up in the die, and is a royal pain to remove. There are two different methods for crimping the case mouths on the bullets. Taper crimp for the 45 ACP and a roll crimp for the 7.62x39. The 45 case will need the mouth belled slightly in order to insert the bullet while it isn't necessary for the rifle case. You will need to trim the rifle cases often, while you may not ever need to trim your pistol brass.

 

These are a few examples of the differences in rifle and pistol reloading.

Posted

For crosschecking, not to supplant a good load manual, all the component manufacturers also offer load data online.  All the name-brand manuals have some good reference materials.

Posted

Reloading is fun and CAN save you money.....or allow you to shoot more on the same budget.  However, it has to be done safely and with precision.  Blowing one's gun up or having medical bills from same DOES NOT make economical sense.

Posted (edited)

I HAVE .45ACP BRASS AND 7.62x39 BRASS(HAVE A MINI THIRTY THAT'S NOT FOND OF SURPLUS).  IS ONE EASIER TO LEARN ON THAN THE OTHER.

Yes, always start reloading with a pistol caliber. Reloading isn't hard to do. But you need to learn the basics first. You will have to trim bottleneck cases once in a while when you load them. They also need to be lubed. Too much will make dents in your cases. Too little will get cases stuck in the resize die. Get the basics down first.

 

Most 7.62x39 have berdan primers. You don't want to tackle that one as a beginner. And you certainly wouldn't tackle it as an experienced reloader. That is unless you have a lot of time on your hands and nothing better to do like income tax, weed the flower garden, etc.      

Edited by Ray Z
Posted

if you can find some of the older reloading books you will get some good information from them.  the reloading data that you can get on line from the powder companies is also current/good.  but the best way to learn how to reload is to have someone show you how.  asked around and my be someone in your area will show you how.  it want take long to learn the basic of reloading from someone that been doing it. 

Posted

Many new handloaders find tons of manuals available online.  You can shop there (and elsewhere) to find less expensive reference materials, but BUY and USE only the newest, latest issued manuals available from the various major components manufacturers.  The reason for this is that we (the entire firearms industry) are constantly learning, even at this time after many years of this activity being followed.  We used to measure chamber pressure with the copper-crusher method, and have now largely moved into the piezo-electric method which is much more accurate.  End result - many calibers and loads rated for pressure by the copper-crusher method in previous years have now been found to be excessive (high) when measured by the piezo-electric method and are being reduced.  Maximum powder charges with a specific bullet in a given caliber are being reduced in many calibers.  Some argue these reductions are lawyer-speak for excessive safety.  That isn't necessarily so.  When a company issues loading data, they are staking their reputation and liability on the line that the load will be safe in any firearm properly chambered for that caliber.  The handloader who exceeds listed load recommendations toys with disaster to his firearm and personal safety.  It just ain't worth it!  Enjoy your new handloading activity with the goals of ammunition safety, reliability, accuracy and economy, probably in that order.  It's quite an addiction.

 

Stumpy

  • Like 1
Guest SavageOne
Posted

I think the Llyman is the best manual for the beginning reloader. I too think a new reloader should start with loading pistol/revolver ammo. Much simpler, and a lot fewer critical factors to consider than rifle.

Guest ryates217
Posted
[quote name="Westwindmike" post="1105587" timestamp="1391451513"]I like the Lee manual. Lots of good info for the experienced reloader as well as the new loader. Get the volume 2. It is more up to date.[/quote]+1

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