Lightening AR15, change parts or sell?

[Lumber_Jack]

So I've determined my AR is a heavier than I'd like. I would like to use a suppressor (when that gets here, someday) and it's heavy too so I thought I should do some changing. So the question is, should I sell the current rifle which is great, or swap parts to make it lighter? Current rifle is RRA LAR-15 YHM forearm over gas block Magpul UBR stock [url=http://s680.photobucket.com/user/owensnj/media/17221B22-AEA8-472C-BF67-AEF7732C7FAA_zps00httbtt.jpg.html][/URL] Plenty of weight to be saved in the stock and forearm, but is there more value in the gun as a whole? Sent from my iPad using Voodoo magic

Edited January 29, 2014 by Lumber_Jack

[peejman]

Seems your better off parting it out. A whole rifle rarely equals the sum of its parts.

[nightrunner]

Are you looking to go as far as a polymer lower to reduce weight?

[Lumber_Jack]

[quote name="peejman" post="1102661" timestamp="1390954434"]Seems your better off parting it out. A whole rifle rarely equals the sum of its parts.[/quote] Yeah probably true, I was just wondering if that rail being a few years old would sell. The stock could sell for sure, but who knows. Sent from my iPad using Voodoo magic

[Lumber_Jack]

[quote name="nightrunner" post="1102662" timestamp="1390954537"]Are you looking to go as far as a polymer lower to reduce weight?[/quote] No, I don't need feather light. If anything it's front heavy. It's a good shooter now but with a 2lb suppressor you'll need a second person to shoot it Sent from my iPad using Voodoo magic

[KKing]

I'd say part it out. What forearm is it exactly? I might be interested

[Garufa]

A PRS stock might balance the weight a bit.  How much does the UBR weigh?

[nightrunner]

Id think something styled like the DDM4V7 would fit the bill.

[Lumber_Jack]

[quote name="nightrunner" post="1102676" timestamp="1390955091"]Id think something styled like the DDM4V7 would fit the bill.[/quote] Pretty much exactly. Just don't know if I should build a replica or what Sent from my iPad using Voodoo magic

[Lumber_Jack]

[quote name="KKing" post="1102674" timestamp="1390955069"]I'd say part it out. What forearm is it exactly? I might be interested[/quote] It's a YHM predecessor to the diamond series 13". Was installed when I bought the gun. Sent from my iPad using Voodoo magic Edited January 29, 2014 by Lumber_Jack

[whitewolf001]

Get a new rail and stock, YHM makes good stuff but they tend to be heavy. The UBR stock is notorious for being HEAVY. If you're looking to cut down on weight, look at Magpul ACS or VLTOR E-Mod, if you want to be out less money, go with a Magpul CTR. For rails, if you HAVE to have a quad rail, get a Daniel Defense Omega, it's supposedly one of the lightest quad rails you can get OR go the route I was going to when I was building my SPR, go with a Troy Alpha rail that uses bolt on rails. Either way seems like a good idea to me, I mean another rifle or spare parts for a future build? Hmmmm, decisions, decisions...

Edited January 29, 2014 by whitewolf001

[Lumber_Jack]

[quote name="whitewolf001" post="1102693" timestamp="1390956249"]Get a new rail and stock, YHM makes good stuff but they tend to be heavy. The UBR stock is notorious for being HEAVY. If you're looking to cut down on weight, look at Magpul ACS or VLTOR E-Mod, if you want to be out less money, go with a Magpul CTR. For rails, if you HAVE to have a quad rail, get a Daniel Defense Omega, it's supposedly one of the lightest quad rails you can get OR go the route I was going to when I was building my SPR, go with a Troy Alpha rail that uses bolt on rails.[/quote] If I swap the rail, I may change the barrel too. New rail will be key mod or similar with only top rail. I really think if I could lighten the muzzle end I might keep the stock. Start from the front and work backwards I guess Sent from my iPad using Voodoo magic

[scoutfsu]

As heavy as that UBR is, it usually balances out a muzzle heavy weapon - aka, it helps with a suppressed weapon.  You want to lighten that gun, it'll be in the barrel and rail.  Try not covering the rail with covers either.  Those things add up. 

[whitewolf001]

If I swap the rail, I may change the barrel too. New rail will be key mod or similar with only top rail. I really think if I could lighten the muzzle end I might keep the stock. Start from the front and work backwards I guess Sent from my iPad using Voodoo magic

 

That's kind of the way to go IMHO, why make your rifle heavier than you need to. The first time I saw a TRX rails(predecessor to the Alpha line), I knew that those would be perfect for almost any application to help lighten it up. Also to help bring that weight back, why not use a pencil barrel or shorten the overall rail length to get that trade-off?

Edited January 29, 2014 by whitewolf001

[Dolomite_supafly]

You could go with a Rainier Arm rail to shave some weight and definitely loose the stock. The Rainier free float tube only has a top rail and the rest is smooth but is threaded for custom rail sections. Most any other collapsible stock will be lighter than the UBR.

 

Once place you may not have thought about is the barrel. Either buying another barrel with a thinner profile or having that one thinned. I took over a pound off my wife's 9mm barrel without any affect on the guns functioning. If the person who is thinning the barrel turns it on its centers the accuracy might improve accuracy. Most barrels have bores that are not centered and the only way to do that is to turn it concentric to the bore.

[Lumber_Jack]

[quote name="Dolomite_supafly" post="1102744" timestamp="1390960092"]You could go with a Rainier Arm rail to shave some weight and definitely loose the stock. The Rainier free float tube only has a top rail and the rest is smooth but is threaded for custom rail sections. Most any other collapsible stock will be lighter than the UBR. Once place you may not have thought about is the barrel. Either buying another barrel with a thinner profile or having that one thinned. I took over a pound off my wife's 9mm barrel without any affect on the guns functioning. If the person who is thinning the barrel turns it on its centers the accuracy might improve accuracy. Most barrels have bores that are not centered and the only way to do that is to turn it concentric to the bore.[/quote] Definitely thought about swapping the barrel. Never considered having it thinned. I think new, shorter rail, and a LW barrel would do wonders, then I can consider the stock after that Sent from my iPad using Voodoo magic

[trevorst]

If you sell the ubr send me a pm, I have a fondness for them and a donor rifle just waiting...

[~48_South~]

I would lose the rail,as others have stated there are some really nice rails that will slim down and save weight. As for the stock goes I agree with scoutfsu I wouldnt change it reason being I think it will help to balance things out when you throw an extra pound of weight directly to the end of your muzzle.

Edited January 29, 2014 by ~48_South~

[PolePosition]

You could wait until the BCM KMR (keymod rail) comes out. It is supposed to be rediculously light and slim. http://www.bravocompanymfg.com/kmr/ that site shows the KMR13 but they will have a KMR10 as well. Designed by Eric of VLTOR and made with an aluminum-magnesium alloy. Should be around $250-270.

 

LW barrels are also an option. There are the BCM, DD, and Spikes LW barrels that are good options. Or you can flute or recontour the barrel at ADCO https://www.adcofirearms.com/shopservices/

[Lumber_Jack]

I was looking and Rainier has a mid-weight barrel (26.8oz) that is CHF and double chrome lined (not that I could wear out a normal one). Interesting for sure, mountain series. Definitely not the cheapest barrel, but nice. I'm leery of going full LW. Is there a sacrifice in accuracy there? https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=4117 Sent from my iPad using Voodoo magic

[DangerDanJD]

To answer your first question, financially speaking, you are probably better off selling the rifle and than parting it out. 

 

Second, and a couple folks have mentioned this, running a suppressor will make your rifle very front heavy. You may want to keep UBR to balance out the weight or at least try it out before you unload it. My advice would be to just sell the upper and keep the lower for the new rifle. 

 

With respect to rails, a lot of companies are making very nice lightweight rails, Troy's alpha series (I prefer the VTAC version) and Midwest's Gen II SS are both very good looking light rails that are pretty popular. 

[Spurholder]

OP, how about this?

 

CHF LW barrel, BCM Keymod.

 

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-BFH-16-LIGHT-WEIGHT-Mid-KMR-KEYMOD-p/bcm-urg-mid-16lw-bfh-kmr13.htm

 

Or this one...

 

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-14-5-Mid-Length-Upper-BCM-KMR13-p/bcm-urg-mid-14bfh-lw-kmr13.htm

Edited January 29, 2014 by Spurholder

[LawEnforcementSalesTN]

Doesn't get much lighter than this Neil :o) of course accuracy goes out the ars!

 

 

Sorry, one if my favorite pics from the past. ;o)

 

MI makes a very light rail too. That SS G2. Just made a suppressed 22 upper and it's super light. I've always been a quad rail type of guy but these customizable round rails light versions are starting to grow on me.

 

Here's the MI and the Troy VTAC in the background... both are very light.   The YHM lightweight quads are nice too but still can get heavy depending on the size.

 

Edited January 29, 2014 by LawEnforcementSalesTN

[Blitzen]

Might search out for a "pencil" thin Ar barrel. The barrel is a good place to start. Rainier sells Vltor made uppers that do not have forward assist. That saves some weight. Magpul handguards also save some weight verses some of the metal ones. Check out Arms folding sight gas block combo. It's really nice in combo with traditional forearm setup. You will have to loose the UBR but man it is nice. If I was going to settle with some extra weight that is were It would be. Heavy toward the butt end and light on the muzzle end. Good Luck!

[Dolomite_supafly]

I have a pencil thin barrel on my lightweight gun. It shoots MOA to at least 100 yards even after it gets hot. It is .60" under the handguard and .55" ahead of the gas block. It is 20" but I am sure you can find one in a shorter length.