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Kitchen Sink / Plumbing Question - *Additional Question*


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Posted (edited)

We are thinking about installing a kitchen sink that is one or two inches deeper than our current sink. Can one or both of the highlighted sections of pipe be adjusted or shortened to make room for the deeper sink? Or will I need to buy shorter pipe?

 

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Edited by TripleDigitRide
Posted (edited)
If you take them apart I believe you'll see that they are just straight pipe on the bottom that could be cut to shorten and allow for a deeper sink. Those plastic drain pipes are very inexpensive at Home Depot, if you need to buy new ones. Edited by BrasilNuts
  • Like 1
Posted

If you take them apart I believe you'll see that they are just straight pipe on the bottom that could be cut to shorten and allow for a deeper sink. Those plastic drain pipes are very inexpensive at Home Depot, if you need to buy new ones.

That's what I was/am hoping. If my thinking is correct, the bottom highlighted section is the one that needs shortening, to also allow for the lowering of the disposal. 

 

As a fairly new, first-time homeowner with limit experience, I wanted to make sure. Thank you.

Posted

There is some adjustment in the slipjoints in the straight pipes, one or both may need cutting to a shorter length to do it.  If "push comes to shove", you can also buy a different trap with more "dip" in the S-bend, that would allow the trap to attach at a lower height to the drainpipe.

Posted (edited)

Looks like you have a good bit of pvc coming through from the back of the cabinet. You may be able to but a "wye" to the back of the cabinet and run separate traps. That should eliminate any problems with the height of the disposer drain but you would need to get a disposer elbow also. I suggest staying with a sink that has it's drains in the center instead of the back. They can be a real bitch to hook up. Looks like you have a lot of room to work with. I wish I saw that on all my jobs.

Edited by 94user
Posted

It will never work, you need to pay me, O lets say, 5000 dollars and I will "fix" it for ya. :wave: :squint: :rofl:

Yea shorten the lower one and you will be set.

Guest Lowbuster
Posted

Looks like you have a good bit of pvc coming through from the back of the cabinet. You may be able to but a "wye" to the back of the cabinet and run separate traps. That should eliminate any problems with the height of the disposer drain but you would need to get a disposer elbow also. I suggest staying with a sink that has it's drains in the center instead of the back. They can be a real bitch to hook up. Looks like you have a lot of room to work with. I wish I saw that on all my jobs.



No need for disposer elbow, just roll 45 up and trap separate. If you have bad smells coming from disposer, this will also keep the smell to disposer side.
Posted

If you haven't already done the job just a couple of pointers. When you shorten the parts you have marked there will sometimes be mold marks or logos at these high points. Be sure to scrape and sand these areas smooth or the washers will not seal. Also look for a shorter basket strainer foe the right hand side of the sink, just gives a little more play. HTH.

 

Joe W.

Posted

. . . and if all else fails, the plumbers at Lowes will be glad to advise you and help you find what you need.

Posted

Another question. If I were to go with an offset sink (one basin larger than the other), should the drains still line up with existing plumbing, or would one or both drain lines need to be moved over?

Posted

For your dishwasher make sure its drain line is above the drains of the sinks. I normally loop it up and over the cabinet that should be next to it. If you don't then every time you drain the sinks it will fill the dishwasher. I had a friend who fought this for years then found out all they needed to do was make sure the dishwasher drain hose was higher than the sink drains.

 

They will probably not line up but it should not be too hard to get everything lined back up. Might have to buy a few pipes but fortunately drain pipes are super cheap.

Posted
I've installed deeper sinks in 2 houses so far. Generally, it's easy and you can cut the existing pipes and make it fit with minor effort. Just make sure the drain lines run downhill and what dolomite said about the dishwasher line. Even if you have to redo some of it, PVC is cheap and easy.

If you're installing a cast iron sink, keep in mind that they're really freakin heavy. Check the counter tops around the sink and make sure it's all well supported. I had to add some braces and shims both times.

Use plenty of plumbers putty around the sink, faucet, and the drains.

Oh, and good luck taking the disposer off the old sink. I've no idea why, but both times it took literally 45 minutes to get that nut off. I think they installed it with an impact or something....
Posted

The dishwasher is connected to and drains directly into the garbage disposal.

 

There should be a 1/2"-3/4" flexible hose that goes from the bottom of the dishwasher to the sink or disposal drain. At some point along that flexible hose it must be above the sink drains.

Posted
[quote name="Dolomite_supafly" post="1097464" timestamp="1390096142"]There should be a 1/2"-3/4" flexible hose that goes from the bottom of the dishwasher to the sink or disposal drain. At some point along that flexible hose it must be above the sink drains.[/quote] Ah, OK. I now under what you're saying. Thank you.
Posted (edited)

 (1) Looking at the picture, it looks like you have a Whirlpool or Kenmore dishwasher to the left side of the sink, and the drain hose is hooked up backwards.

 

 (2) A lot of the sinks that have a smaller bowl on one side, it is usually shallower and the disposal goes on that side. If that is the case, you will have to elbow down to tie into the drain.

 

 (3) The large mounting nut on those Insinkerator disposals are the EASIEST of all to get off. Most people try to take them off backwards.

Edited by Varmint
Guest Lowbuster
Posted

. . . and if all else fails, the plumbers at Lowes will be glad to advise you and help you find what you need.



I hope you're kidding. I'd trust people on this forum first.
Posted

Not kidding at all.  I said "the plumbers", not the dropouts working their first job.  Lowe's has both.

Guest Lowbuster
Posted
1999 I was approached on a job site by an assistant manager from Lowes. He asked me to come to an interview. I did because when he asked me I was in a three feet deep ditch, full water, ice, and snow replacing a water main that someone the day before did not cover and busted. When I got to Lowes I was asked how much it would take to work there. I told him and was shocked he hired me as what was called a plumbing pro. An electrical, paint, and hardware pro were also hired. We were hourly paid, set hours from 7-4 and we had to stick together because we were hired in at set schedule, high pay, and did not have to stock shelves. Almost every one else that worked there resented us. After a while we were approached to go to salary, work odd hours including 12 more hours a week and take what was called a plumbing specialist. I got hurt on a forklift helping with a battery and was moved to commercial sales, the other pros now specialists were scattered throughout store. I eventually went back to sub contracting. Be careful at Lowes. They show them videos in the back room that were tips on plumbing, and tell how to sell you stuff you don't need. I was told " if you put a yellow clearance sticker on dog s#|+, people think they're getting a good deal on dog s#|+.
That is my experience with them. I since have stopped customers after talking with employees and stopped them from making mistakes.
I was liscensed, insured, and stayed busy year round, so contractors used me for some reason. They may be plumbers, I don't know, I just want every one to be careful.
Lowes is about sales, sales, sales.
Guest Lowbuster
Posted

They're a store! That's what stores do!




I agree, just letting people know they are not all experts. They're taught to sell, not help as much.

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