Any Machinists Here? Need Milling Machine Help

[Clod Stomper]

My chuck is broken.  I don't have enough knowledge to know what to get to replace it.  It is a taper mount, but I don't know which.  Is there a standard?

 

Here's what I know.  It's a Central Machinery (made in China) lathe/mill/drill.  Bought from Harbor Freight in 1998.  The markings on the chuck itself say "J2116 C"  Jacobs taper maybe?  It's not a Jacobs chuck.  It also says "Golden Cup  Made in China".

 

Pics below.

 

I know there are different size and types of taper mounts.  Just don't know what this one is.

 

I found these on Ebay that I think may work, but I want to be sure.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281240212569?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

 

and

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220585557986?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

 

Can anyone give me some knowledge?

 

 

[JohnC]

Get in touch with this guy, Mike.

His email is on his profile: http://streetntrack.net/user/76-mike/

He has a bunch of machine shop tools in his garage and makes his own car parts.

His work here: http://streetntrack.net/topic/42-buick-build/

This page shows some of his shop http://streetntrack.net/topic/42-buick-build/page-6 Edited January 15, 2014 by JohnC

[jphillips63]

Looks like all needs be done is the arbor pressed back into the Chuck itself sent from RAZR Maxx HD using Tapatalk Pro

[Clod Stomper]

Thanks for the lead.

I should have mentioned that one of the jaws is broken. So I definitely need a new chuck. Just need to get the right one.

[Guest Lester Weevils]

A place that has a lot of parts and supplies for small lathes and mills is-- littlemachineshop.com

The prices are pretty good on some of the stuff and he carries chucks for several tapers. He has a walk in store as well as online sales, so maybe emailing or calling him, he could tell you right off which one to get, because he seems pretty expert on all the small chinese mills and lathes.

[Pat]

Hmm... another option - punch in the markings you found on the chuck into Google and see what comes up. There's several different sizes of tapers for inside of a chuck, even with same-sized chucks.

 

Once you find out the information, a good place to buy from is MSC (http://www.mscdirect.com/); they have a store in Atlanta, and so you can get stuff shipped within a day easily. If I order stuff by mid-afternoon from them, I usually get it either the next day or the day after, without sped-up shipping.

 

Little Machine Shop is good for small machine tools and tooling as well.

[LawEnforcementSalesTN]

Looks like a #33 OR #6 Jacobs taper to me. 

 

If you have a caliper tell us what the outside diameter is of the mount (still on the drill) or the inside diameter of the chuck you have there... it will help... pretty sure it's a 33 but it may be a 6 or even a 3... hard to tell from the photo and a 33 and 6 are very close in size.

 

Some of those older 3 in 1 units had a R8 spindle so you could swap out the drill chuck unit and put in an end mill/face mill holder, etc... The portion that is still attached to the mill (called an arbor) should come off the spindle.  There may be a nut at the top you losen and then gently tap the holder out of the spindle.  You could then take the arbor with you and if you can find a place that sells chucks they'd know immediately looking at it. If your arbor does not look like it can be remove (spindle 1 piece or something like that) from the spindle most all chucks would be 33 Jacobs.

 

Try calling Northern Tool and/or any other machinist parts warehouse in Knoxville.  I order all my stuff online but I'd like to find a place local that sold good end mills and other machining tools. I know one exists I just haven't wanted to get in the car and start driving around pulling stuff out the phone book. 

 

If you find your spindle does except arbors and it is R8, I may have a spare R8 arbor here with a nice chuck attached already in my cabinet.  I don't have any R8 mills anymore, I'll check tomorow if I get a chance. My big HAAS uses a CAT40 mount ;o)

 

If you can get over to the west side of Oak Ridge give me a text/call, I'd be happy to look at it for you. 

 

 

Good luck

Edited January 15, 2014 by LawEnforcementSalesTN

[RED333]

Here is a bit of info

http://littlemachineshop.com/Info/minimill_compare.php

[van37725]

Sir, It's not a jacobs taper, it should be a jarno taper.

 

Van

[Clod Stomper]

Jarno?  That's a new one to me, but like I said, I'm not that familiar with them.

 

Thanks very much everyone.  I think I'm on the right track now.

 

Will

[DaveTN]

My chuck is broken.  I don't have enough knowledge to know what to get to replace it.  It is a taper mount, but I don't know which.  Is there a standard?

Yes, and if you are replacing the chuck you are more concerned with the arbor it attaches to. From that link posted about your machine it says it has an R8 spindle. So are we safe in assuming you have an undamaged R8 arbor? If you can take some measurements on the taper mount portion of the arbor the guys at MSC can tell you what chuck you need.

http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/Tool-Holding/Drill-Chucks-Holders-Accessories/Drill-Chucks-Accessories/Drill-Chucks?navid=12108655

If you need a new arbor.
http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/Tool-Holding/Drill-Chucks-Holders-Accessories/Drill-Chucks-Accessories/Drill-Chuck-Arbors?navid=12108653

You can probably find a chuck mounted on an R8 arbor used on EBay pretty cheap.

[Clod Stomper]

That isn't the same machine I have, but probably made in the same factory.  I'll be going to my Dad's (where my milling machine is) this weekend.  I'll see if I can get the arbor out.  I suspect it's probably the same arbor.  But I need to be sure.

 

This is a learning process for me.  

 

Thanks,

 

Will

[RED333]

The HF mills I have worked on had a bolt in the top of the shaft that holds the quill in.

Just loosen it about 3 good turns, them pop it with a soft hammer, lead or brass will work.

In a pinch a block of hard wood and a steel hammer will do the job.

This style has a key the keeps the quill from spinning in the shaft.

 

 

If there is no bolt up there you will need a piece of steel to

poke through the slot on the shaft to knock out the quill.

This style has a tang that fits a slot up in

the shaft to keep it from spinning.

Edited January 17, 2014 by RED333

[Guest Lester Weevils]

I was considering buying the lathe mill drill at one time, but backed out because the model I looked at did not have the threading feature, missing the threading drive screw and half nut. Though perhaps some of the models were capable of threading.

Just saying, the "look" of that combo machine, examined in-the-flesh, didn't look real similar to the seig mills and lathes, and maybe came from a different chinese factory. So it might be risky to assume it is "real similar" to a mini-mill. For what its worth, not much. Edited January 17, 2014 by Lester Weevils

[Clod Stomper]

The HF mills I have worked on had a bolt in the top of the shaft that holds the quill in.

Just loosen it about 3 good turns, them pop it with a soft hammer, lead or brass will work.

In a pinch a block of hard wood and a steel hammer will do the job.

This style has a key the keeps the quill from spinning in the shaft.

 

 

If there is no bolt up there you will need a piece of steel to

poke through the slot on the shaft to knock out the quill.

This style has a tang that fits a slot up in

the shaft to keep it from spinning.

 

Good info.  Thank you.  I'll be tearing into it Sunday.

[Clod Stomper]

I was considering buying the lathe mill drill at one time, but backed out because the model I looked at did not have the threading feature, missing the threading drive screw and half nut. Though perhaps some of the models were capable of threading.

Just saying, the "look" of that combo machine, examined in-the-flesh, didn't look real similar to the seig mills and lathes, and maybe came from a different chinese factory. So it might be risky to assume it is "real similar" to a mini-mill. For what its worth, not much.

 Yeah.  If I'd known anything when I bought this machine, I would have at least got one with a thread-cutting gear.  But I knew practically nothing.  I'm still not very knowledgeable, but a bit more than when I was 25.  

 

I sort of know what to look for now.  When I am able to buy a new mill or lathe, I'll have an idea of what I need.  But I'll still consult those more knowledgeable.  

 

You're correct.  That one doesn't look like mine.  With my luck, it's probably made in a factory on the other side of China.  I'll be taking it apart (jeez, I hope) and taking the arbor to someone who can give me an informed idea about what I need to fix it.  

 

Next purchase will be a lathe with a thread gear.  Most of my machining is on my barrels.  I do have a couple 80% lowers I need to finish.  Hence the sudden need to fix the mill chuck.

[Guest Lester Weevils]

Yep they are all trade-offs. And I'm real ignorant of machining.

You have lathe and milling capabilities, and a whole bunch of threading can be done with taps, not needing the lathe threading.

My small basement space is full. Everything too big to conveniently pick up is on rollers, including the workbench, and I roll stuff into the corners to make space for work in the middle. There aint room for another roller table with a minimill on it, and a minimill is too big for me to store on a shelf and tote to the workbench when needed. So I'm stuck with a small lathe and no milling capability at all. Until I can clean out and refurbish the outside shop anyway. One of these days.

So maybe I'd have been better off getting a combo lathe mill that can't do threading.

[RED333]

If you are milling with the chuck I can see why it broke.

Get you a set of these that fit your mill.

If yours is a R8 taper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/R8-Collet-Lot-/201018663461

[Guest tangojuliet]

your next mill find a used bridgeport with a digital read out lathe sharpes is a good one or versamax .... good luck lad 

[Guest kcraig514]

Check www.use-enco.com. I buy a lot from them. Good prices, fair shipping.