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FSB shaving


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Posted
I think he wants the front sight gone and only a micro gas block left.

It takes me about 15 minutes to do myself.

Just curious, why not just install a micro gas block instead? The gas blocks cost less than $20 shipped.
Posted (edited)
[quote name="tanzoid13" post="1094897" timestamp="1389722990"]I'm too lazy to uninstall the fsb and install a gas block.[/quote] Umm....huh? Edited by KKing
Posted
I went ahead and attempted to rove it and did so. I didn't realize how easy it was. I've got a 15" rail so the looks didn't really matter.
Posted (edited)

I think he wants the front sight gone and only a micro gas block left.

It takes me about 15 minutes to do myself.

Just curious, why not just install a micro gas block instead? The gas blocks cost less than $20 shipped.

If his FSB is pinned it would be a much better choice than buying a micro gas block.

 

Tanzoid, if you have a dremel with a cutting wheel and a bench or angle grinder it really shouldn't take you more than 30 minutes to cut it, shave it, and paint it to fit. I did it for the one that came on my carbine to fit a MI Gen 2 SS rail.

Edited by Junkstack
Posted

Grinding is free. It requires labor to grind, file and finish, but at the end you are only out labor.

 

If you replace the FSB you have to buy one, wait for it to get there (or drive to get it.) You then have the labor of removing the muzzle device, unpinning the old FSB, fitting the new FSB, pinning (or otherwise attaching the new FSB) and then reattaching the muzzle device.

 

I don 't understand why you think replacing would be easier.

 

The installed FSB is known good. Functions now. He just needs to make it smaller to fit under a rail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Either solution works, just for some folks, buying a new one isn't always the best way.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I still don't understand why grinding is a better choice than replacing?

FSB is pinned for proper alignment already. That alone is worth the 15-30 minutes it would take to shave it. That knocks out having to verify alignment, dimpling for the set screws, etc that comes with a new gas block, on top of ordering and waiting for it to come. I did it because I like doing things with my hands and it was more fun making it than buying it. Also, my barrel has two holes from the pins for the FSB that I didn't want showing, and my barrel isn't parkerized where the FSB mates. I would have a shiny ring showing on the barrel.

Edited by Junkstack
Posted

Those gas blocks that use setscrews and dimples at the bottom are the WORST gas blocks to use.

 

Clamp on are the best because you can adjust them to ensure they are lined up right. Clamps on blocks also apply pressure around the entire circumference while the set screw types only apply pressure at the setscrews and directly across from the setscrews. This leaves a lot of area not being used to hold the gas block in place and depending on the gas block or barrel itself can also lead to gas leaks.

 

I do have a FSB that I cut down but now I swap the gas blocks to install adjustable gas blocks. I do this because 90% of the AR's, and barrels, hitting the market have oversized gas ports and are over gassed. The manufacturers install a heavy weight buffer to try to mask the symptoms rather than fix the problem which is oversized gas ports.

  • Like 2
Posted

Those gas blocks that use setscrews and dimples at the bottom are the WORST gas blocks to use.

 

Clamp on are the best because you can adjust them to ensure they are lined up right. 

Many rails have an inner diameter that will not allow clamp on gas blocks to be used.

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