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Glocks shooting reloads ?


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Posted

Do any of you guys here shoot your own reloaded 9mm ammo in your Glocks ? Do you use the factory barrel or an aftermarket one to keep it from leading up ? 

I am about to get into reloading next month and was seeing if any do it for the Glocks in 9mm ? I have heard to "not shoot reloaded .40 in Glocks" . Not sure if it's about the unsupported chambers or what . Any information is appreciated . Thanks . 

Posted

I shoot reloads, but with copper jackets.  I believe if you melt your own, do not use the factory OEM barrel.  Here is a good read on why:

 

http://www.humanevents.com/2010/06/08/barrels-and-bullets-conventional-versus-polygonal-rifling/

 

For the folks that don't click on links:

Barrels and Bullets: Conventional Versus Polygonal Rifling

By: ccantrell
6/8/2010 03:01 AM

The bore of a gun barrel with conventional rifling is etched with corkscrew-like cuts. Each cut, or groove, is separated by a ridge of metal called the land. Together, these grooves and lands define the type of rifling inside the bore. The height, width, and number of lands will vary by manufacturer, though most handgun bores have about six lands. All conventional rifling is formed by cutting or exerting pressure within the barrel, unlike polygonal rifling which is formed by hammering the barrel from the outside.

The word "polygonal" refers to having many sides and angles and is used to describe bores with unconventional rifling. While the lands of conventional rifling look somewhat like the angular teeth on a gearwheel, those of polygonal rifling look more like bulges rising from the bore. Polygonal rifling was an outgrowth of a cold-hammer forging process developed by German engineers prior to the Second World War. The process addressed the need to produce more durable machine gun barrels in less time than those produced with traditional methods. Current manufacturers whose handgun barrels have hammer-forged polygonal rifling include Glock, Kahr, Magnum Research, and Heckler & Koch.

The advantages of barrels with polygonal rifling include a smaller gap between bullet and bore, leading to slightly higher bullet velocities, and smoother bores that accumulate less fouling, making them easier to clean. The barrels are also generally more accurate because there is less bullet deformation by the "grooves" (less "bite" into the bullet) and because the bore’s surface is formed with more consistency. Because the rifling has no sharp corners to erode, barrels with polygonal bores have a longer, usable life, since they retain their accuracy longer. Finally, the hammer forging process used to create barrels with polygonal rifling is less likely to leave traverse tool marks, another cause of fouling, and a problem more common in conventionally rifled barrels. Accuracy, longevity, and strength may be the greatest practical benefits of barrels with polygonal rifling. A limitation is their inability to be safely used with lead bullets.

To understand why it’s generally not a good ideal to shoot non-jacketed lead bullets out of barrels with polygonal rifling, it’s first necessary to understand how a bullet passes down the bore. All bullets are slightly larger in diameter than their nominal caliber, which is defined as the distance between opposing lands. The bullets are larger in order to provide the "extra" metal that gets squeezed into the rifling by the propellant’s expanding gases as the bullet travels down the bore; this extra metal fills in the grooves to provide a purchase for the rifling, thus allowing it to spin the bullet down the bore. Conventional rifling, developed when lead bullets were the norm and muzzle velocities somewhat lower, has grooves deep enough to accommodate the buildup of lead deposits caused by the friction between bore and bullet. Regular cleaning removes the deposits before they become constrictive.

However, because more of the bullet’s bearing surface is in contact with the bore in polygonally rifled barrels, lead bullets, especially when pushed at high velocities, are literally squirted down the barrel, "smearing" the bore with a lead veneer. As this veneer builds up and fills in the gap that normally exists between the bore and bullet, it causes pressure from the expanding gases (now less able to pass through the gap) to increase dangerously. This is not a problem with jacketed bullets because the jacket material is a copper alloy that’s much harder than lead and resists shedding.

In fact, the ability to use cartridges with non-jacketed lead bullets may be the greatest practical benefit of conventionally rifled barrels. If ammo is scarce and you can only buy or barter for cartridges with lead bullets, or you’re a reloader who uses lead bullets to keep costs down, conventional rifling is an asset. Also, conventionally rifled barrels made of stainless steel, or that have been chemically hardened or plated with hard chrome, will have good usable barrel life.

Nevertheless, cold-hammer forged barrels with polygonal rifling are more durable, stronger, easier to clean, and retain their accuracy much longer than any other barrel. And, in a pinch, you can even shoot lead bullets through them, just not too many between cleanings. But since most cartridges for target and self-defense have jacketed bullets, this "limitation" of polygonal rifling is mostly theoretical. And the problem can be avoided entirely by purchasing a conventionally-rifled replacement barrel.

For someone whose practice regimen is an occasional trip to the range, the type of rifling doesn’t matter since they will never shoot enough rounds to affect the accuracy of their weapon. But, for those who practice frequently, or who plan to compete in practical shooting matches such as IDPA or IPSC, a hammer-forged barrel with polygonal rifling will last longer with less maintenance.

  • Like 1
Posted

I wont advise you to but I know several that do and I have and do myself. On a G34 I shot over 600 rds with out leading or cleaning Id check every few rds then on the G35 I've got over 200 on it with out leading or cleaning. Im still working on this one. Im also just shooting 125,000 PF thats a big difference then shooting factory ammo

Posted

The manual says not to........there's your answer!

 

 

I shot lead in my factory barrels and I didn't any problems other than it took a few more mins scrubbing out the lead. I have since upgraded my 3 "go to" Glocks with KKM barrels......now I spend that few more mins cleaning burnt power off everything inside it!

 

Honestly for every 2 stories about Factory barrels and lead there are 3 that say it's ok. There is a thread on BEnos.com about it in the glock sub forum and it's worth the read. In the end it's your call. I load 40 but to minor PF.....well kinda minor.  I wouldn't run lead at Major PF in a factory barrel but that's just my personal call.

Posted

I shot lead in my 19 and 26 for years until I found out I couldn't/shouldn't. I now have a Lone Wolf barrel and don't worry about it. My OEM barrel was fine, but I got so that I was pulling my barrel out every 50 rounds or so to check for lead. The LW barrel lets me not worry about it.

Posted

I've shot untold thousands of rounds of jacketed handloads through my Glock's (17-19-26).

 

About all I handload these days are 147 gr lead rounds.

But as mentioned above I purchased aftermarket barrels and I now have peace of mind. In my case I picked up a couple of Lone Wolf barrels and a "U" die or "undersize die" because of the much tighter tolerances in the Lone Wold barrels.

Reliability is remarkable, and of course, the rounds are capable of much greater accuracy than I am. :cool:

 

Good read from Runco above btw. :up:

Posted (edited)
I have shot a lot of lead reloads through Glocks. I have never had an issue with fouling. Edited by Duck
Posted

I put nearly 10K rounds of hard-cast through my Gen 1 model 17 without issue.  Bayou Bullets sells a coated bullet that they advertise as being good to go in poly-rifled barrels.  There's a new company that also may be of interest.

 

http://thebluebullets.com/

Posted

Thanks for the information guys. I want to start with 9mm then move to .45 . I have a friend that is helping me choosing my reloading equipment. He uses the single stage press said that is about the best way to start out with being simple and learning more along the way about how each step works . 

  • Like 4
Posted
Unless you think you may shoot more than 10k lead bullets through the same gun I wouldn't bother to change the barrel. The lead left behind easily comes out with a brush.
I do reload 9mm but it's questionable if it's worth it. Now if you were to cast 9mm would make a lot of sense, roughly 50 9mm come out of a pound of lead.
  • Like 1
Posted

i reload and make my own cast bullets.  have been for many mango seasons.  i shoot my reloads in all my glocks.  i do use after market barrels.  i have many different brands of barrels, i.e. kkm, efk fire dragon, lone wolf,and bar sto in 9 mm, 40 s&w, and 45 acp. i do know that the first glock 40 s&w barrels did not give good case support.  the newer one do.  as for factory cast lead bullets i have shot some through the factory barrel. these loads were down loaded some.   factory cast lead is harder than wheel weight cast bullets and when down loaded some should not lead the factory barrel.  i have never seen a problem with someone shooting cast lead in a factory barrel, i have hear about the problems, but not seen any.   

  • Like 1

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