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You won't learn to accurately focus a shallow DOF with an f2.5 lens. You will want the faster lens for that, and with the f1.4 you not only get a reasonably shallow DOF you also get a decent manual focus ring so you can begin to master that critical skill which you will need. You can fix a lot of things with software after the fact, and IS can make up for shaky hands but having the subject slightly out of focus is not one of those things that can be fixed in post.

 

As for Ken comparing the 2 lenses he compares them both wide open and stopped down to f8 but he only compared one copy. If my personal copy of the f1.4 was repeatedly less sharp than the sub $100 f1.8 AT f1.8 I would return it to Canon for service.

 

Lenses are precision instruments more so than firearms in many cases and any slip up in the manufacturing or shipping of the product can very quickly produce a bad copy. I've seen guys buy 3 or 4 of the same lens trying to get a "good" copy and return the ones that were lesser. (Lens in question was a sigma 24-70 f2.8) He finally got it and now loves it but I only spent $200 more for my canon and didn't have to wait for a good one.(canon lenses can have bum copies as well they just occur at much less frequent intervals)

 

Well on that note, I just ordered this:

 

 
Cannot wait!
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If I were going to buy her a starter setup (gotta do it as economically as possible) what body/lens configuration would be something to start with.  Most big box bundles have something like a Nikon D3100 with 18-55mm and 55-300mm.  Granted, the glass isn't pro quality, but would this be a decent package to start with and see if she enjoys it enough to save her $$ up for good glass later?

The bundles are typically very reasonably discounted so they are a good bet for a beginner. If looking at Canon packages be sure to compare to B&H's bundles which sometimes have upgraded lenses to EF rather than EF-S lenses. The EF (Full Frame) lenses are more valuable used than the common kit EF-S lenses should she decide to upgrade later.

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If I were going to buy her a starter setup (gotta do it as economically as possible) what body/lens configuration would be something to start with.  Most big box bundles have something like a Nikon D3100 with 18-55mm and 55-300mm.  Granted, the glass isn't pro quality, but would this be a decent package to start with and see if she enjoys it enough to save her $$ up for good glass later?

 
I'd say a kit as well. I personally like having the 18-55mm kit lens. It isn't "bad", it just isn't "great". It is much better than most of your Point-and-Shoot cameras. I went on a trip to the Grand Canyon in 2009. Beforehand I purchase a Canon Rebel XTi from Sears. Me having never had a DSLR and just using the standard 18-55, I took this photos (along with 800 more;)
 
Original Resolution, Unaltered:
 
img_0207.jpg

img_0229.jpg

img_0701.jpg

img_0833.jpg

The XTi was roughly 10.1 megapixel. It is now roughly a 5-6 year old camera. I assure you , the newer ones are even nicer:) I paid close to $800 for the XTi bundle, you can now pickup the T3i bundle I showed you on Amazon for almost half ($437) with the 32GB Sandisk card and the case. Higher quality for hundreds less! The kit lens will be a great thing to play with to get the basics. It is also quite a versatile lens, being open enough for close shots but also being able to zoom in a bit for closer shots.

I took two photography courses at Cleveland State. Something like that will teach you the basics. I consider myself a hobbyist, but I would like to get the point where I could be considered a professional. Most people on the street wouldn't understand the following terms: aperture, ISO, shutter, focal length, etc.

A class (or a really, really good book) will help you understand those terms and how changing each of them affects your photo. Then all you have to do is practice, practice, practice a lot. That's where I fall short.
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I'm working on a deal to trade a Winchester 1200 defender +$200 for a Nikon D3100 w 18-55 and 55-300 kit lenses.  Decent deal? <2000 pics taken.  I'm assuming this also means <2000 shutter clicks.

Edited by homeagain
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I'm working on a deal to trade a Winchester 1200 defender +$200 for a Nikon D3100 w 18-55 and 55-300 kit lenses.  Decent deal? <2000 pics taken.  I'm assuming this also means <2000 shutter clicks.


Cannot make much of a comment regarding the Winchester or the Nikon, but Canon is offering 50% off select refurbished lenses:

http://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/save-50-percent-when-you-buy-select-refurbished-ef-lenses

You can get the 70-300mm IS USM for $259.99. That lens is $649 new!
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I'm working on a deal to trade a Winchester 1200 defender +$200 for a Nikon D3100 w 18-55 and 55-300 kit lenses.  Decent deal? <2000 pics taken.  I'm assuming this also means <2000 shutter clicks.

 

Sounds reasonable assuming everything is in new-ish condition.  DLSR's do have a life span... 50k min is fairly typical.

 

Photography in general is about light management.  The kit lenses work fine as long as you've got lots of light.  When the lighting is poor is when the high dollar lenses show their worth. 

 

I signed up for a weekly email from this place:  I've found it quite useful and depressing at the same time.  Some of those folks are darn good and make me feel like a hack.  :)

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I've been reading a lot of this guy's reviews:

 

http://kenrockwell.com/canon/comparisons/50mm-lenses.htm

 

He reviews the 2.5 Macro quite remarkably over the 1.4, noting that the 2.5 is sharper at all apertures (well, except for anything over 2.5;)

 

I would also echo reading through Ken Rockwell's site.  He's a professional who writes reviews for all kinds of stuff, new and old.  He also takes the time to explain some of the terms so that someone who doesn't know about photography can learn.

 

For me, I bought a Nikon D40X a few years back and one of the best things I ever did was take it off "Auto" and put it on manual and start manipulating all the settings.  In the old days, you would have to burn up alot of film and developing to learn what the settings do.  Now, you just look at it on the screen and delete what you don't want.  One of my wants in photography was to be able to get a decent moon picture.  I had occasion when I was on vacation earlier this year in Cocoa Beach that the moon was full and rose over the ocean directly out from the balcony I was on.  Unfortunately, I didn't have my tripod or my remote shutter activator with me so I had to carefully prop up on a table and be as still as I could while pressing the button.  I won't bore everybody with all the shots but will show a couple.

 

DSC_2912_zps2757f4b1.jpg

 

DSC_2896_zpsd276c1c9.jpg

 

DSC_2906_zps7c8715d1.jpg

 

This is what I was talking about earlier.  In the two moon shots, the only difference was the apperature opening setting.  In the old days, I would have shot up who knows how much in film to figure out which setting was the best and now all you have to do is shoot, observe, adjust, reshoot. 

 

P.S.  I'm not an expert at this by any means.  Some of the guys on this forum are leaps and bounds better than me.

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Night exposure of a barn?

 

Yeah, pretty easy to guess eh?  There is a 100 watt high pressure sodium street light about 100 yards from the barn so that is where the extra light on the barn comes from.  Otherwise, it was totally dark.  I shot some others on the other side of the house of the hills across the valley and was amazed that it almost appeared daylight.

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I like that.  Care to share how you did that?

 

First you need somewhere with low light. We normally go out on the Natchez Trace Parkway. Zoom out to get as much of the sky as you want, more sky=more chance of catching one but a smaller trail in the picture. I set the exposure to as long as was available on the camera (I think two minutes on that camera), pick a part of the sky where the meteors are more likely to happen (I believe it's the southern sky) then hit the shutter release over and over again and hope. I think that was the only good one out of about 30 or 40 pictures I took. I also used a remote to avoid jogging the tripod (oh yeah, use a tripod). I think I manually cranked the ISO as quick as it could get also.

 

I did all that manually but there are items you can get that will extend the long shutter stuff you can do and do time-lapse stuff as well. I have one now but I haven't got to play with it yet.

 

LCD+Timer+Battery+Grip+for+Canon+EOS+600

Edited by tnguy
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For those with (select) Canon cameras, you have the option of installing this:

 

http://www.magiclantern.fm

 

A installed it on a buddy's T3i. It really gives you so many more options. You must be careful in the whole process. Read about it on that website for a while before trying. It really is a neat project.

 

http://vimeo.com/46188010

Edited by CZ9MM
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[quote name="TripleDigitRide" post="1079393" timestamp="1387132943"]By the way, what's the going rate for beginner photography classes?[/quote] In all honesty you don't need classes find a local photography club and join and go to there meetings sent from RAZR Maxx HD using Tapatalk Pro
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You won't learn to accurately focus a shallow DOF with an f2.5 lens. You will want the faster lens for that, and with the f1.4 you not only get a reasonably shallow DOF you also get a decent manual focus ring so you can begin to master that critical skill which you will need. You can fix a lot of things with software after the fact, and IS can make up for shaky hands but having the subject slightly out of focus is not one of those things that can be fixed in post.

 

As for Ken comparing the 2 lenses he compares them both wide open and stopped down to f8 but he only compared one copy. If my personal copy of the f1.4 was repeatedly less sharp than the sub $100 f1.8 AT f1.8 I would return it to Canon for service.

 

Lenses are precision instruments more so than firearms in many cases and any slip up in the manufacturing or shipping of the product can very quickly produce a bad copy. I've seen guys buy 3 or 4 of the same lens trying to get a "good" copy and return the ones that were lesser. (Lens in question was a sigma 24-70 f2.8) He finally got it and now loves it but I only spent $200 more for my canon and didn't have to wait for a good one.(canon lenses can have bum copies as well they just occur at much less frequent intervals)

 

Received my 50mm 1.4 yesterday. Haven't had much opportunity to try it out much, but with what little I played with it I sure did like it! I compared 50mm shots with it to 50mm shots with the kit lens.

 

:love: 

 

Just wanted your input in the durability of the AF on this lens. There are a  lot of opinions on the internet that suggest a hood is a necessity:

 

https://www.flickr.com/groups/canon_50mm/discuss/72157603775874649/ 

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I don't have a hood for my 50 due to space constraints in my kit, but if you have room a hood is almost always a good investment. As to the fragility of the AF these camera lenses are precision optics so treat them with care and you should be fine.

 

I transport and store all my smaller lenses,flashes, remote triggers, and bodies in a pretty stout bag(Think Tank's Airport International 2.0) that I can lock up while I'm shooting. I've yet to have a breakage of equipment in transit and it has seen some pretty terrible TSA screeners.

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