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What will I need for reloading?


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Posted

This:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/652922/lee-universal-charging-die

will screw into this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/652922/lee-universal-charging-die

And this will screw into your turret plate.

 

And it will automatically charge your case with powder when the handle is raised.

 

I would recommend this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/150005/lee-auto-disk-adjustable-powder-charge-bar

To make adjustments easier and more tuneable.

 

These appear to be the same item.

 

This:

http://www.midwayusa...al-charging-die

will screw into this:

http://www.midwayusa...al-charging-die

And this will screw into your turret plate.

Posted

You do not need 4.

 

All you need is a sizing die and a seater die if you plan on dropping the powder yourself or run the turret as a single stage.

 

If I were setting it up I would do this.

 

Hole 1: Sizing die

Hole 2: universal rifle chargin die with powder measure

Hole 3: Seater die

 

Or if I am shooting cast it would be:

Hole 1: Sizing die

Hole 2: Universal neck expanding die

Hole 3: Universal rifle charging die with powder measure

Hole 4: Seater die.

 

Or if you want to drop you own powder

Hole 1: Sizing die

Hole 2: Empty (drop your powder then drop the powder into a funnel on top of the case

Hole 3: Seater die

Hole 4: empty

 

Hole #4 always gets a factory crimp die at my house. I only shoot jacketed or plated

Posted

I'm a visual learner so this thread has only confused me further. I need to find someone down here that will let me come over and watch the process. Amazon has a book on Reloading for Beginners that I may pick up.

  • Like 1
Posted

TDR,

 

If you ever find yourself in Macon county, I'd be more than happy to show you what little I know about reloading. I have 223 dies. Bring brass and I'll walk you through the process. We can even fire them here if you'd like.

Guest TNSovereignty
Posted

Great advice here ... wish I'd had access to all the experience when I learned.  (And I'm still learning.)  I figured it out from books, talking to a mentor by phone, calling Hornady directly (they make my LnL press), and trial & error.  There's always going to be a bit of the latter - just ensure you're always following safety guidelines.  

 

I just scanned the other posts, so this may already be there, but I think the first purchase is a reloading book or two.  I now have three, plus a dandy book - "Pet Loads" by Ken Waters.  Each of the reloading books has a preface that walks you through the process, and you can look at the loading data for the calibers you're interested in.  If you do the reading before you go to the youtube videos you'll be miles ahead ... doing that bit of homework will make your potential time alongside a mentor much more useful/valuable.  Bottom Line - Reloading 101 should be a lot of head-knowledge, found through books & youtube ... Reloading 201 is hands-on, which you can do on your own taking it slowly or alongside a mentor. 

Posted

I recommend the RCBS Rockchucker master reloading kit. It has everything you will need less dies and shell holders for the various calibers you wish to reload. You probably will advance to a progressive press in a year or so but you won't sell this press off. The leverage the rockchucker has is needed for other tasks that can't ne done on a progressive loader. Ive been using my Dillon 650 for years but still get out my rockchucker to do stuff 3-4 times a year.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm a visual learner so this thread has only confused me further. I need to find someone down here that will let me come over and watch the process. Amazon has a book on Reloading for Beginners that I may pick up.

I am the same way. I am a visual and hands-on learner. This thread will definitely get me headed in the right direction. 

Posted

You tube has a lifetime's worth of videos.

 

I highly recommend this method too. They aren't all winners, but I must have watched 10 different guys on YouTube explain the process. Between them all and the 2 reloading manuals I read, I learned how to do it well enough to explain it before I ever even set up my first press.

Posted

Your opening comments included that you have never reloaded, or even watched as another person reloaded.  As you are starting from ground zero, your first purchase should be a reloading manual, and actually more than one would be better.  These should be the newest, most recent issues from the publisher.  Excellent manuals carry names such as Lyman, Speer, Hornady, Sierra, and so on.  Take each manual and read it from cover to cover for reloading methods, not to include load data for specific calibers (that will come later).  After you have read each of these manuals completely, do the same again.  Until you get your arms around the process and rationale behind every step in the reloading process you should stay away from the bench.  The reason you want newer manuals is that our methods of determining chamber pressure (and the loads that create chamber pressure) has changed radically in the not too far past.  Formerly the copper-crusher method was used, now we have piezo-electric sensors to tell us what is happening inside the barrel.  Former maximum loads are now considered too high in many load recommendations and have been reduced. Let's keep this activity safe.

 

When you are ready to go "hands on" get in the company of an experienced reloader.  Let that person mentor your skills, demonstrate techniques, talk about hazards, explore equipment and so on.  Look, listen and learn.  The only dumb question is the one you do not ask.  Rock back and enjoy.

 

When you are ready to spend your money, you will have two groups of purchases to make.  One group is the equipment - the durable tools that put all of your components together.  The other group is the components, those expendible materials we always need and frequently replace.  Listen to the suggestions from experienced loaders, balance that against your goal or need, and pray you can find what you have decided you want to buy.  It's tough out there.  Availability of components runs from low to non-existant and prices are at the scalper level.  Bond with other reloaders near you, borrow or trade for small lots of components for experiments, watch for opportunities to add to your stockpile.  By example, this year I have helped close the estates of 2 former reloaders, selling off their tools and components.  Watch for yard and estate sales.  Where there are reloading materials to be bought, there may also be a firearm (or 20) if the family has not plundered them.  Keep your eyes open.

 

As a new reloader, I highly recommend you start with a single stage press.  This will give you the highest potential to fully understand the process, see your exact results at every step, make adjustments or corrections as needed and move forward from there. 

 

Good luck, and welcome to the addiction.

 

Stumpy

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Hey TDR, I know today isn't a good day but when you get back to this, I have a Lee single stage press that I'll give you if you want it! It was given to me and I moved up to a 4 hole turret and don't use it any longer. Say the word and it's yours! You can find my number in my profile if you want it.

Edited by Volzfan
Posted

So TDR, what Volzfan said about it not being the best day, but when you get back to this (and hope it helps things get back to normal)...

 

Just a caution that reloading is addictive. Next thing, you'll be casting lead and mixing your own lube.

 

And if any friends or family members get interested, you'll find them pulling up chairs and having extended hangout sessions around the equipment, which is sometimes producing, sometimes not.

 

In full consideration, reloading is good.

Posted (edited)

While I am a big fan of the lee turret press, if you ONLY wanted to load rifle, I would say to save money with a single stage press.  Why?  Because you have to take the brass off the press after you size it to trim it, making the turret into a single stage, effectively.    However, if you plan to load ANY ammo that does not require trimming (straight walled pistol cases, mostly) the turret is very much worth getting.  If you are unsure of what you might do, get the turret.   Even now, if you use cheap components, you can still make 9mm for ~50% of the store price and most other calibers save you much more than this esp magnum revolver or small auto (380, 32 etc). 

 

If you shoot a lot, you want a case trimmer.  I tried the drill route and it works, but it gets old fast.  I finally let my wife buy me a motorized dedicated machine for it and it is 1000 times better.   If you shoot a lot and are not trying to win the long range match competition with your loads,  the lee disk powder device works pretty well to get the powder in the case rapidly.  As with any volumetric device, small particle powder (ball) reduces air space and helps consistency.  Same would be true if you used a spoon to dip it. 

 

Most everything else was covered.   I am a cheapskate, so my table cost about $10.  I bought a small piece of plywood, cut that into 2  pieces 2 foot square and nailed them onto a 4x4 cut into 4 legs (so its 2 plywood thick).   It did not break when I was reforming 30-06 brass by brute force, so that is sturdy enough for most reloading tasks.   Walmart type plastic bins to store things, or whatever, but you will need some storage esp if you branch out to more calibers, components take up some space esp if you buy the big jugs of powder.  

Edited by Jonnin
  • Like 1
Posted

I don't know. I have a friend loading rifle on the regular 4 hole. He's just loading 223. The classic is just a better press.

I know a guy who has the standard model, not the Classic. He doesn't have near as much clearance as I do on my Classic. He says it won't auto-rotate with 22-250. I think it will with BLK and .223 though. But forget it if you're loading the bigger rifle calibers. That is, if auto-rotation is important to you. I sure like it.

Posted

I know a guy who has the standard model, not the Classic. He doesn't have near as much clearance as I do on my Classic. He says it won't auto-rotate with 22-250. I think it will with BLK and .223 though. But forget it if you're loading the bigger rifle calibers. That is, if auto-rotation is important to you. I sure like it.

 

Yep. I bought the turret to load .45 acp. Then, figured out that it was a good solution for loading high volume AR ammo. I don't reload any rifle stuff that won't fit in an AR mag. The exception is .223 with long bullets, that has to be single shot in the AR. I load that stuff on the Co-ax.

 

So... if I was loading 22-250, or any of the higher powered stuff, I would load single stage anyway. Just my two cents. 

Posted

So... if I was loading 22-250, or any of the higher powered stuff, I would load single stage anyway. Just my two cents. 

Same here. I generally batch load my match grade ammo but plinking ammo I don't bother. But unfortunately, I don't usually plink on anything that big. I guess it comes back to what you said earlier, it's just a better press.

Posted

I reload/cast bullets and have been since the early 1970's.  reloading is fun and easy.  yes you will save money reloading, only after you pay off the startup cost.  when it comes to what you need to start reloading you will get many answers to the questions.  but the first thing that you need is money, a large amount of it.  now the real question you should be asking yourself is, "do I shoot enough to make it pay off the cost of all the reloading equipment that I got". is it going to take years to make it cost effected, or will I be better just to buy bulk ammo once a year.   

Posted

I don't think someone needs a large amount of money to reload. There are a couple of lists now that I have posted where a person can get everything they need for under $200. Is it the best, top of the line equipment? No, but it will produce ammo better than you could buy and do it for a lot less.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

The only thing I would replace on the list to make it a better list is the Lee Perfect Powder Measure. It isn't bad but because it is all plastic it doesn't exude a lot of confidence. I used one for about 2 years and it worked great but I have since replaced it with a RCBS version.

 

Hey Dolomite,

 

Do you happen to have a link to the RCBS you suggest?  Can you do both pistol and rifle with it, specifically 9mm and 5.56?

 

Thanks.

Edited by Slasher
Posted (edited)
Let me throw in my 2 cents, 90% of what I reload is straight walled pistol cartridges and I have no desire to get rid of my single stage press. I know what a turret press is capable of and what a progressive press can produce, and enjoy my single stage. I have less than $300 in equipment and produce easily 70 rounds a hour(includes case seperation, cleaning, and lots of inspection). I jus feel my quality control is better with a single stage and it still feels like it is productive at 70 rounds a hour.

I keep a lot of brass around, it makes life easier. If I only had 100-300 casings I probably would want a turret or progressive, otherwise I resize/decap every so often until they are all done. Then the next week or a month later I may bell the casings and reprime. Then after awhile(following week) I will calmly charge and seat bullets, something like 100 at a time which is what I normally shoot in one range visit. I sit down to charge and seat bullets a lot more than I do to do the other steps, resizing/depriming & belling/priming are normally several hundred at a time.

I really want to get into casting, it is harder to jump into than reloading itself. Edited by Patton

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