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Contender Gurus Needed


Sidewinder

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Posted

Recently, I've become interested in the Thompson Contender variants, but don't know much about them. I could spend hours on the net ferreting out the information on the different models and their average value, or I could count on the vast knowledge base, here on GOC. I know they have been around for awhile, but don't know the differences...improvements, if any. I've heard prices all over the board. Are the later models worth that much more than the earlier models, and if so, why? I'm not bashing them...cause I'm interested in one...but, what can be done to a break barrel gun to make it worth two to three times what another model is worth?

 

My interest kinda run toward the smaller calibers, like the .222, .223, .17, .22 Hornet. How accurate are these calibers, and what is a realistic range on, for instance, the .223? Thanks in advance for the information. Facts...and opinions are good too. They're kinda pricey, are they worth it?

Posted

Two of the best forums for Contenders are:

Greybeard Outdoors

http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/index.php?board=24.0

 

and

Break Action Pistols

http://specialtypistols.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/frm/f/4766056864

 

My .223 Contender with 14" barrel is fun to shoot with reduced loads. Not much fun with full power loads. Too much muzzle blast and flame! With reduced loads, it shoots quarter size groups at 100 yards. Some can do better. I hear good things about the .222.

 

I also shoot the 7-30 Waters. A necked down 30-30. Good deer round out to 150 or so. Great with cast boolits.

 

Best of luck with yours.

Posted
They are tack drivers. I've got a 14" .223 and have taken varmints 125-150 yard range with a good rest. Seems like I chronoed some at around 3000 using a 50 gr. Blitz.

Also have a 7mm TCU a necked up .223 and its been very accurate as well. And a .22wmr. I've nailed a bunch of squirrels with head shots. I haven't shot mine much lately but have enjoyed over the years.
Posted

I have a 22lr and a 300 Blackout. I spent 20 years debating on buying one. Now that I have bought one a few months ago I decided to buy another a few days ago.

 

I will say that when I put a scope on the 22 I could touch the rounds at 35 yards. The 300 Blackout is fun too but it will be getting a suppressor real soon as will the 22.

Posted

One difference in them that I'm aware of is that when you cock and let down the hammer on an original Contender, you have to fully open and close the action before you can cock and fire the gun. I don't think that is necessary with the G2s.

 

My father has some, and has had more in the past. They are accurate as any rifle, but for me, are difficult to shoot without sandbags. Further, carrying one afield is more akin to carrying a rifle than a handgun. This renders them pretty much useless to me other than being a novelty of sorts.

Posted

I believe the newer model moved the pivot a little to make opening a little easier. Also stronger to allow even more powerful calibers. I have a 10" .223. Fun to shoot and more accurate than I am but a really mind blowing muzzle flash. I also have a 10" .357 maximum barrel. I used to hand load some monster loads for it. Recoil was a handful.

Posted

Thanks to all who have responded and shared their knowledge on the Contender.

 

I did some "horse tradin'" and wound up with one chambered in .22 Hornet, which is one of the calibers I was interested in. Haven't shot it yet... still rounding up ammo that won't break the bank. I plan to start reloading the .22 Hornet as soon as I get a set of dies for my Rock Chucker. Right now the Contender is "extremely" hard to open the barrel...it takes two hands! It feels like something solid is blocking the trigger guard that releases the barrel. Has anyone ran into this before... and if you did, what does it take to fix it? Is something loose in my gun? There's no way this should be this hard to break open. I'm a Contender newbie... but anyone would know that this is not just stiff, or hard to open, there's something not right going on here. Thanks in advance for your help.

Posted

I believe there is a way to fix it. It requires some filing on the locking lugs but I am unfamiliar with the particulars.

 

Specialty Pistols is where I read about it.

 

I plan on trying a lighter trigger guard spring for mine.

Posted
I was at blue line gun store in Gallatin this past Saturday and they had a used one in 44 mag. Luckily for me they didn't have any 44 mag rounds in stock, because if I shot it I may be explaining to my wife why I had to have it. It reminds me of a flintlock. ;)
Posted

If your Contender has been modified to be the "easy open" model, the trigger guard will pivot on the trigger pin, not from the front under the handguard. They say the older models were a handful to open.

Posted

Does your Contender have a push button to switch from rimfire to centerfire or a switch on top of the hammer?

Dolomite, mine has a screw like part in the hammer, that is rotated 180 degrees to hit the other firing pin. It's built with one half of the screw head lower than the other half. I'm not sure if I have one tang or two, as I'm brand new to the Contender. Can I see the tang with the barrel open, or do I have to remove the grip? Thanks for your help.

Posted

If your Contender has been modified to be the "easy open" model, the trigger guard will pivot on the trigger pin, not from the front under the handguard. They say the older models were a handful to open.

Thanks, mine pivots from the front of the triggerguard, and it takes both hands to open it.

Posted

back in 1980 i got into them.  i used them for competition silhouette shooting.  my wife also got into the game with them.   i got t/c in 22 lr, 22 mag, 38/357 mag, 44 mag, 7mm tcu, and 223.  they are one of the best single shot pistol going next to the remington xp100.  the 7 mm tcu is up to par to my xp100 in 7mm-308 and 30-223 when it comes to long range silhouette matches.   some can be hard to open at first, but with use they break in.  

Posted
You have the older 'hard open' frame. Some of them can be a bear. Sadly TC doesn't convert them anymore. Open your pistol and the lugs will be sticking out under the chamber. You should see a split in them if they are two piece.

If it's a one piece, tc may send you two new lugs free of charge. Call and ask.

You can also drive out the retaining pin and shorten the lug spring. This can cause problems on heavy kicking calibers, but the hornet should be fine. Just remove a little bit at a time and check it often.

Now you need 15 more barrels.
Posted

You have the older 'hard open' frame. Some of them can be a bear. Sadly TC doesn't convert them anymore. Open your pistol and the lugs will be sticking out under the chamber. You should see a split in them if they are two piece.

If it's a one piece, tc may send you two new lugs free of charge. Call and ask.

You can also drive out the retaining pin and shorten the lug spring. This can cause problems on heavy kicking calibers, but the hornet should be fine. Just remove a little bit at a time and check it often.

Now you need 15 more barrels.

Onemancoyote, this one sure has me baffled. Sometimes it's hard...extremely hard to open. But if I just close it gently until it snaps shut, I can open it fairly easy time after time. I've taken the barrel off a couple of times to operate the trigger guard as if I'm opening the barrel...and it feels rough, gritty, and sort of like it wants to hang on something.

 

Fifteen more barrels, you say! Actually, I wish I did have one in .223, and maybe one in .30-30. I have a Blackhawk in .357 mag., so I'm covered there. Do all barrels come with rear sights? I didn't get a rear sight with this one, as it's scoped. Are all of the rear sights the same, and what is an approx. cost for one? Thanks again for your help.

 

Oh yea...with the user name you have... do you coyote hunt with yours?

Posted

Not all barrels come with sights but all are drilled and tapped for a scope mount at the rear. Having a front sight added is an easy affair for most smiths. For rear sights you can find them on the used market for under $30 for a basic sight. They make several versions of the rear sight but from what I have read a Contender sight works only on a Contender.

 

I bet your locking lug is a one piece because of the hard to open frame. Twin locking lugs will make it easier to open as well as trimming the spring. Something else I did was to slightly polish the top of the locking lugs then add grease. And I will try a few more things on mine in the coming weeks to see if they help with mine.

 

I have an easy open frame but I think I can get it to open smoother with about 10 minutes worth of work.

 

To check to see if you have a single or duel lugs just break the barrel open. Then right under the extractor there should be a flat area that is a little shiny. Those are the lugs. Try pressing on the lug on one side of the extractor. If both sides of the lug go in then it is a single lug. If only one side moves in then you have duel lugs.

 

I can see me owning several more Contenders before this is all over. I now own two but always looking for more.

Posted

I no longer own any contenders as I went revolver for a time and swapped them all.

 

My nickname is a joke among friends, but follows along the line of the old, 'two dogs', joke.

Posted

Not all barrels come with sights but all are drilled and tapped for a scope mount at the rear. Having a front sight added is an easy affair for most smiths. For rear sights you can find them on the used market for under $30 for a basic sight. They make several versions of the rear sight but from what I have read a Contender sight works only on a Contender.

 

I bet your locking lug is a one piece because of the hard to open frame. Twin locking lugs will make it easier to open as well as trimming the spring. Something else I did was to slightly polish the top of the locking lugs then add grease. And I will try a few more things on mine in the coming weeks to see if they help with mine.

 

I have an easy open frame but I think I can get it to open smoother with about 10 minutes worth of work.

 

To check to see if you have a single or duel lugs just break the barrel open. Then right under the extractor there should be a flat area that is a little shiny. Those are the lugs. Try pressing on the lug on one side of the extractor. If both sides of the lug go in then it is a single lug. If only one side moves in then you have duel lugs.

 

I can see me owning several more Contenders before this is all over. I now own two but always looking for more.

Dolomite, it sounds like you've already been down the road I'm heading down. I just checked, and you're right, I have the one piece locking lug. Do you know if Brownell's sell the twin locking lugs, how about Thompson? Any idea on the price?

 

In the meantime, I'll try the other things you've suggested. Do you know of anyone that  had their frame modified to the easy open configuration? Does this require changing the trigger group, or can it be modified too? Is all of this "cost prohibitive"... as in, maybe cheaper to just replace the frame?

 

I just got my Contender yesterday, and have been busy rounding up .22 Hornet ammo. Traded a member on a local site 100 rounds of .22LR for a box of 50, older Winchester Super X, .45 gr. soft point, .22 Hornet last night.

 

Thanks for your help in sharing the information you already have experience with. After all of this dust up over hard opening Contenders, it set me to thinking...it's amazing how much we think we know from "researching" before we buy a gun, and how much we learn in a short time after actually buying a gun!

Posted

I no longer own any contenders as I went revolver for a time and swapped them all.

 

My nickname is a joke among friends, but follows along the line of the old, 'two dogs', joke.

Onemancoyote, sorry... I didn't mean to pry. I thought maybe you hunted coyotes with a Contender, which I thought I might do, if I get the chance. I guess the .22 Hornet might be a little lite for that though. I've always wanted to bag a yote. It would be especially nice to bag one with a Contender.

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