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I Need a BIG Chainsaw


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Posted

I am about to cut down an enormous oak in my back yard.  Its dbh is at least 36".  So does anyone know of a place around Knox or Blount county that rents large chainsaws with at least a 36" bar?

 

Yes, I could cut a tree that size with a 20" bar, but it is going to fall between my house and my workshop.  So I can't take a chance on it letting go before both sides of the back cut are even.  It has to be pretty precise.  Did I mention that it has a very heavy lean?  Fortunately, it is leaning in the right direction.

 

I've already paid someone to take a huge limb off of it that was directly over the house.  So I can't shell out more money.  It's  a pretty straightforward cut, I just need an extraordinarily long bar to do it.

 

An internet search was less than helpful.  I haven't started calling many places yet.  Thought I'd stop in here first.  I did stop by Home Depot, but they only have a 20".

 

Thanks, y'all

 

Will

Posted

I recently rented some equipment from Maryville Rental and they were good to deal with.  I've also heard good things about Anderson Rental.

  • Like 1
Posted
I had a simlar situation. Called around and found someone to fell it and grind rhe stump for $250. I'd do like Mac says and leave it to someone with insurance.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Get a pro. It's much safer. It's cheaper in the long run, especially considering your time , rental charges, and the cleanup.

 

A 36" tree is a bigggg tree to fell safely. And I'd bet it's pretty tall as well. You plan on climbing to cut limbs? It's deadly dangerous. 

 

I'm pretty old, out of shape, and notoriously greedy. But after cutting down a few 18-20 trees on my property, then cutting all the limbs, cutting it up, dragging it off, cleaning up, etc.

 

Buddy...it ain't worth the time and trouble.

Posted (edited)

36" doesn't need a big saw, you can easily cut that with a 16" bar

 

to add on to that, if you're not sure how that works, you better get a professional to drop that thing.  saving $500 can cost you thousands in damage

Edited by Sam1
  • Like 1
Posted

is your home owners up to date?
at least get a bid from a pro


Oh come on... This is YouTube gold waiting to happen.


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  • Like 1
Posted

    Number one; you don't need a 36 inch bar as it will restrict your ability to maneauver. I have cut many larger trees with a 20 inch Stihl saw. However for a close sittuation like that I would get a pro. Between their libility policy and your home owner policy you are covered. 

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the advice guys.  

 

I agree that it would be nice to have someone with insurance, but I've already (over)paid someone to take off the most threatening limb.  The rest is pretty straightforward.  Like I said, it is near the house, but it would be actually pretty hard to get it to hit the house due to the lean.  I could easily hit the workshop, but it's a small 8x8 building, so I won't cry if something goes awry and it gets damaged.

 

Yes, I know how to cut a large tree with a small saw.  I have an 18" Stihl that could bring it down.  I have done so with several large trees, but due to the proximity to the buildings, I need to keep the holding wood even for the entire back cut.  It's leaning heavily, so it COULD start falling before I want it to.  If my hinge is not even, it will pull to one side or the other and I don't want that to happen.  The long bar is mainly an extra precaution.

 

Yes, I did climb it yesterday and cut off a limb that would have caused it to twist when it hits the ground.  I did have a safety harness and I do not have narcolep :snore: ...

 

I have two, possibly three, friends who will be here.  Between us, we have dropped literally hundreds of trees.  Many while on the job.  One of them teaches the class that new sawyers for the NPS or USFS have to complete before they can use a chainsaw on the job.  So I'm not concerned with the level of expertise.  We just don't have liability insurance.

 

Already have a quote from the same guy who cut the killer limb.  It was going to be another $1000.  Nope, not happening.  I've weighed the risk vs savings.  The risk isn't that great.  Like I said, it would be pretty hard to get it to hit the house.  I can rebuild the workshop for less than a grand.

 

As for cleaning it up, I would do that myself anyway.  I heat the house with wood.  So I'm going to TRY to get a portable sawmill or Alaska mill out to make some boards from the trunk.  The rest will be firewood.  If I can't get a mill, the trunk will be firewood too, but it will be a shame to waste that.  It's such a nice straight, clean tree for about 20 feet up.  It will make some nice boards.

 

Yes, I will try to get the whole thing on video.  So if I truly make a mess, you can say "We tried to tell you, you flaming idiot!   :shake: "  

 

And I think I have found a saw.  Thanks Spots!

 

I'll report back Saturday night or Sunday.  If I'm still alive. Hmm.. maybe I should sell tickets.   :popcorn:

 

Will

Edited by Clod Stomper
  • Like 1
Posted
If you're worried about it holding, you need to wedge it, it will not come back on a wedge and those should be used anyway on a directional fell.
Posted

A wedge isn't really going to be necessary in this case.  There is no way it's going to set back.  It has a pretty steep lean in the direction I'm going to lay it.  

 

I plan to do a plunge cut for the back cut.  Leave some wood holding in the back.  Then when I get the back cut square with the direction I'm aiming, cut the back.  That will give me time to get everything lined up perfectly before it falls.  I could do that with a smaller saw, but the long bar is just in case the back lets go too soon.  Did I mention it has a severe lean?  It really does.

 

I have wedged trees over against the lean.  They are certainly handy when that is necessary.  Even with a near vertical tree or one with a slight lean in the right direction, I'll use a wedge to make sure it doesn't set back.  But there is no doubt about the way this one is going to fall.  

Posted

Glad to hear that you are taking it on yourself.  The day that I pay someone to do yard chores is the day that I start wearing a skirt and putting cream and sugar in my coffee.

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Well, I've been busy and didn't post any pics.  Sorry about that.  I'll get some posted in the next few days, hopefully.  

 

The tree fell exactly where it was aimed.  Due to me being out of practice, it wasn't aimed perfectly, but it didn't matter.  It didn't hit the house or the small building.  

 

I did let (request, actually) my friends who have more recent experience do most of the cutting.  

 

The 36" saw made all the difference in the world.  Saved a ton of work.  Many Thanks to Spots and his Dad for that.  

 

The one thing that surprised me was when the tree fell.  Having been dead for less than a year, I expected it to be more green.  But when it hit the ground, the limbs were pretty brittle.  It pretty much flattened out on the ground.  Saved me a lot of limbing and bucking, so that's not a bad thing.

  • Like 1
Posted

We had two very tall trees in our back yard, and the wife was always concerned that they were going to fall onto the house and wanted them topped off. I looked at the trees, and thought I could do it myself. I'd seen my dad cut trees when I was younger. How hard could it be? I went out and bought a chain saw and climbed the first tree. It's amazing how those branches look low from the ground, and not so much when you are way up there holding a motorized instrument of death.

 

I called for my son to help. His job was to stand on the ground and watch, holding the phone, ready to call 911 if I fell out of the tree. I cut the first branch and the tree swung violently. I barely held on.

 

About that time, a man pulled up in a truck to the next door neighbors house, which was vacant and the owner had it up for rent. being the nosy neighbor that I am, I called down from the tree  and asked if he was interested in looking at the house. He said no, that he was here to cut down a tree at the owners request.

 

I took that as a sign from God that I was not supposed to cut the tree. I asked him to come see me when he got done. He came over and gave me a quote to top the trees and leave the branches for me to cut up and haul away. Very reasonable I thought, so I hired him.

Posted (edited)
I would still wedge the back. Two wedges, one on each side of the piece you leave in the back. Remember wedges aren't only for set back. Trees twist in the stump all the time. If the hinge wood isn't perfectly straight, or your lean isn't as even as you think, or if there is a rotten spot. I've seen heavy lean trees spin 180 on the stump and fall 45 degrees to the lean. It's your tree and your house, but I'd still wedge. Be sure the saw is big enough to run the bar efficiently. At least Stihl 440 or 460. Good luck, take a video Edited by Lumber_Jack
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Exactly Lumber_Jack, even with the lean, the tree can splinter and/or kick back; actually especially trees with a lot of lean do this.  If that thing kicks back you have no clue on which way it's gonna roll.

 

I'll use wedges on everything within reach of something important without regard to the variables.

Edited by Sam1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Well, here's the tree that we cut a few weeks ago.  Unfortunately, I didn't get any pics of the logs or the rest of the tree in the yard.  But since my saw is still ailing, it's pretty much still there, so I'll get a couple pics of the logs.  

 

We're going to try to cut some lumber out of them.  We have an Alaskan mill, but a friend of mine (the one who did most of the cutting) thinks he may be able to borrow a Lucas mill, which would be better for these logs, I think.  Hopefully we can make a little money selling the lumber.

 

I'm sure glad that thing is down.  It was dropping killer limbs.  Some on the house.  Next to go is the hickory just up the hill from it.  

 

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11677801843_934d46c508.jpg

 

11677566075_c37afccc62.jpg

 

 

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