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Does my LCR have a problem?


charlessummers

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I've never owned an LCR but from what little I've played with them I do know that the trigger and action is nothing like a Smith.  Things just seem alot "looser" for lack of a better term.  When you do to working it like in that video there's no telling what is going where or why.  Not so with a Smith.

 

Maybe it's just getting used to a new action?

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I just looked at my sons lcr in 357 and cant get it to do what yours does no matter what I do. have you cleaned and lubed the gun per Ruger instructions. i wonder if it may have pocket lint hung some where. If cleaned and lubed properly I would be on phone with Ruger tomorrow. how many rounds do you have through the gun. both my sons own lcr's so i'm wondering if we should be on the watch for this issue.

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It was that way from the factory. I though maybe it was just a little different since I was comparing a Ruger and a Smith... It's only had 50 rounds of .357 and 50 rounds of .38spl through it and was cleaned like I do with all my other revolvers. I'll call Ruger tomorrow. I know they'll make it right and since it's not my EDC, I won't miss it too much. I really want to like this little revolver but I don't like cylinder doing this at all.

Thanks!

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Of course I slept in a Holiday Inn Express but have fooled with a quite a few DA revolvers and owned a couple of LCRs.  When I looked at your video the cylinder latch cuts look good. If this were a Taurus I would suspect the cylinder machining where the cuts are.  On your Ruger this doesn't seem to be the case.  My first thing would be to spray some kind of real lube, not WD40 in there and then hit it with air from a compressor and not a can of air like Dust Off, real high pressure air.  Looking at the diagram in the owner's manual makes it look like that the cylinder latch and latch spring could have dirt in there -  maybe.  In other Rugers like SP101s and GPs and Speed or Service models there is sometimes casting "slag" on their investment cast parts that could also be preventing the latch from fulling engaging or "coming up" the cylinder slots.  If it were my revolver I would first spray it and use the air.  If that didn't work I would take it apart, inspect the small parts then clean and reassemble. I might want to take a fine needle file or an appropriate sized stone and make sure everything is smooth.  I hate and I mean hate, shipping guns back to the manufacturer.  But that may be the best thing in this case and Ruger will more than likely just rebuild the whole thing.  

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I just looked at my GP100 and it does not do that. I looked at the cuts on the cylinder and from what I can see in your video, your cuts don't seem to be deep enough to keep the catch from slipping out into the rounded area. Mine has the rounded cuts then it drops off sharply into the notch where the catch sits and keeps it from turning and as deep as it is, there is NO way it can come out until the trigger is pulled slightly. Having said that, I have seen normally functional revolvers do this until either the trigger or cylinder are worked a little bit aggressively to get the catch to fully engage the cylinder. Could be either a weak or dirty catch spring. I would take Graycrait's cleaning advise, but also call Ruger to get their opinion as even though they are both Rugers, the LCR is designed differently. Edited by netmindr
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I'm pretty sure the cylinder shouldn't spin freely like that on any revolver...

 

My LCR doesn't do it.

 

A few antiques and replicas will do some nutty stuff, break tops for example will spin freely, as well some other oddballs.  But the LCR should probably not do that!

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  • 2 weeks later...
When to the RK Show today and looked at a few other LCRs and I was surprised to see every one of them did the same thing. .22 cal, and .38 cal, both. Didn't see any .357 mags like mine but I was have to assume that I would have found the same with them too. I sent it back to Ruger on Monday and it was shipped back within 24 hours of its arrival. I should get it back on Tuesday and cant wait to to hear what they said about it. If it's normal, I can't live with this and will probably try to trade it off for a S&W j-frame, I really want to like this little pistol....


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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I just looked at vid, had forgotten what you saw as the prob.

 

If indeed all that you handled do that, I suppose that is indeed the way LCRs are designed then, and those folks who said otherwise just didn't actually duplicate the same procedure as in the vid?

 

I guess only thing that really matters is that the cylinder does indeed turn and index correctly when the trigger is pulled.

 

From behind the gun (your end of it) I suppose it rotates counter-clockwise to fire, like my SP101 and GP100? (Ruger single actions turn the opposite way).

 

- OS

Edited by Oh Shoot
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Charles,

I have the .357 model and tried create the same issue you have. 

If I pull the trigger very lightly and in a particular position, mine will "almost" behave like yours.

It will not however let the cylinder turn the opposite direction without pulling the trigger.

A trip to Ruger would be my solution.

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Update on my little LCR-357

 

Received it back from Ruger today. Reairs made: 1. Replaced Cylinder, 2. Replaced Cylinder Latch, 3. Replaced D-Bushing, 4. Replaced Ejector

 

Says that it has been repaired, safety function check, proof test, and range test firing has been completed. Released for shipping.

 

Having said all of that, it still does the same thing as before. I don't know if my OCD'ness will let me live with this... although Ruger says it's fine. Guess I'll see if I can trade it in for a S&W 637 so such... although I already have a .38 J-Frame. I'd really like to keep this one though.

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If ruger says it is OK, and it fires without shaving off chunks of bullets due to misalignment, and it seems to be working, perhaps it is just a quirk to the design.  
While MOST revolvers do not allow the cylinder to spin without the user doing something to allow it,  some DO.   /shrug??

 

If it were me, I would poke at it until I understood why it was able to spin and then try to figure out what, if anything, should prevent it.  Then I would know if there is a problem.   My wife had a taurus that had a similar issue, and so did 2 more that we looked at in stores, but she sent hers back anyway and when it came back the gun was correct (could no longer free spin the cylinder).  So, another thought.... maybe ruger did a poor repair and its a common problem caused by either defective parts or a bad design somewhere???    I was amazed that we found THREE taurus pistols NIB at stores with the same issue, but it makes sense, if something is broken in the assembly line and bad parts are being made in bulk....  entire runs of the gun could be bad....

Edited by Jonnin
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