Lightweight AR upper suggestions

[Dustbuster]

Am building a lightweight ar will be using a 16 barrel and some other lightweight items. Am trying to put together a piston upper as light as I can w a free float carbon fiber hand guard. Am looking for suggestions. Have been looking at Adams stuff, but I won't go for the hi dollar upper unless I have to. The lancer rifle is nice but were talking 2300.00 which "ain't happenin"
All suggestions welcome on this
Am using a lancer lower for this w an ace Arfx stock to keep it light w either a Miculek comp or Wheaton comp on the end...am also thinking about billet vs forged and stainless vs chrome etc again all help appreciated. Am trying to avoid a buy then try scenario
Thanks!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 of course it ate my spelling.

[Clod Stomper]

Well, since you said all suggestions were welcome...

Since you're looking to remain lightweight, I would forego the piston system and use an adjustable gas block instead. It will keep it light and still keep your rifle innards cleaner than most others which are normally over gassed.

As for the receiver, I'd stay with forged. I don't know about all billets, but mine is a bit heavier than forged. Just a few ounces, but ounces add up to pounds.

[Oh Shoot]

A pencil barrel will be first weight saver.

 

"stainless vs chrome" what?

 

- OS

[MacGyver]

Gordon knows his stuff. To make one lighter than his would require a milling machine.

[Guest Razz]

To make one lighter than his would require a milling machine.

Group buy!

[Dustbuster]

Please do dolomite ! Let me know when best time to reach out is, much appreciated !!


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[Dolomite_supafly]

I originally wanted a 6 pound gun then I realized 5 pounds was doable without any custom work. I bet I could even get it down to 4.5 pounds by changing a few more parts. All the parts on mine were off the shelf which is what I wanted so anyone can duplicate it. A former friend runs a stable and I wanted a lightweight gun to carry around for coyote.

 

I could probably go with a lightweight JP BCG and save a few ounces. I could probably use a 14.5" or 16" barrel to save a few more ounces but I prefer the extra velocity. I shoot 53 grain SMK's at 3,383 fps avg out of the barrel.

 

I bought parts as cheap as I could find them even if it took a little longer to build. I have under $450 in the entire gun including the Frontier lower. It took me a year to find the parts on the used market but it was worth it. This will be the gun I keep forever.

 

By using a 14.5" or 16" barrel and a lightweight BCG you could probably use a forged lower rather than the polymer. A slabside upper would save a few more ounces too.

 

The DI gas system is the lightest setup you can find. It is reliable. But above all else make sure the gun has a gas system that is set up properly. In a lightweight gun the recoil is magnified. With a properly setup gas system even a lightweight gun can have a very light recoil as anyone who has shot mine can attest.

 

I used a Clark carbon fiber free float tube, http://www.clarkcustomguns.com/clk750.htm
I used a Standard forged upper but removed the ejection port cover and related hardware. I kept the forward assist.
I used a standard, not M16, BCG
I used a Frontier polymer lower with a commercial buffer tube and buffer WITH the weights still in place.
I used a standard GI pistol grip. There is a Magpul grip that is lighter but it is very uncomfortable.
I used an aluminum gas block with a rail for a front sight. You could save a few ounces by going with a micro gas block.
The 20" barrel was something I picked up at a show after a smith tried to pin the front sight without a jig. It is .6" behind the gas block and .55" in front with a .625" gas pad.
It originally had a A2 style flash hider but now wears a tiny muzzle brake.
I used a older car style stock, they are the lightest there is. Like this:

Here are a few pictures of mine before I added the Frontier lower. I think in this configuration it was something like 5 pounds 8 ounces if I remember correctly:

 

The only thing that has changed from these pictures is the Frontier lower, the muzzle brake and I use iron sights now.

 

 

[Spurholder]

OP, it might be worth your while just to buy over build...especially since BCM has been on the market:

 

http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=16-LW-MID

 

or with a hammer-forged barrel for a little more:

 

http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=16-BFH-LW-MID

 

Add a USGI bolt carrier group, some irons or an optic and some handguards, and Bob's your uncle.

 

The whole piston versus DI argument is silly, in my very humble opinion, unless you're doing one of the following:

 

1.  Full auto

2. Short barreled rifle

3. Running a suppressor

 

Drop that upper on a lower that's got a H or H2 buffer, and you're good to go.

 

HTH.

Edited November 1, 2013 by Spurholder

[Dolomite_supafly]

I would never own a 7 twist barrel, at least not one that short. There are a lot of issues with running a 7 twist that are not there with 9 or even 8 twist and the shorter the barrel the more prominant the issues.

[Spurholder]

I would never own a 7 twist barrel, at least not one that short. There are a lot of issues with running a 7 twist that are not there with 9 or even 8 twist and the shorter the barrel the more prominant the issues.

 

Not trying to be contrary, but I'm interested to hear about the issues.

[Oh Shoot]

Not trying to be contrary, but I'm interested to hear about the issues.

 

Not grokking that either, especially if you want to shoot over 62gr bullets? I mean, whole 5.56 AR world is mostly 1:7 or 1:9, with a smattering of 1:8.

 

- OS

[kwe45919]

Not trying to be contrary, but I'm interested to hear about the issues.

 

I know Dolo has gone over this information on countless threads over the past few years. I think he even did his own thread on the 7 vs 9 twist and what grain is best with each and why. You can try a search for it....

[Oh Shoot]

I know Dolo has gone over this information on countless threads over the past few years. I think he even did his own thread on the 7 vs 9 twist and what grain is best with each and why. You can try a search for it....

 

I've probably read everything Dolo has ever written, and get some verbal advice besides. :) Just never heard him state that one before.

 

And I do know the general correspondence between twist and weight (actually length) in 5.56. That's why I was asking, as my understanding is there's pretty much equal reasons for some to select 1:7 and some 1:9. Though I don't understand why 1:8 isn't more common as a standard "do all" twist.

 

- OS

Edited November 3, 2013 by Oh Shoot

[Spurholder]

I've probably read everything Dolo has ever written, and get some verbal advice besides. :) Just never heard him state that one before.

 

And I do know the general correspondence between twist and weight (actually length) in 5.56. That's why I was asking, as my understanding is there's pretty much equal reasons for some to select 1:7 and some 1:9. Though I don't understand why 1:8 isn't more common as a standard "do all" twist.

 

- OS

 

For me, the 1/7 does just about everything pretty well, at least in my experience of rifles with 14.5, 16 and 20 inch barrels.

 

I practice with 55 and 62 grain loads and use 77's in my go-to magazines.   I've been very satisfied.

[Oh Shoot]

For me, the 1/7 does just about everything pretty well, at least in my experience of rifles with 14.5, 16 and 20 inch barrels.

 

I practice with 55 and 62 grain loads and use 77's in my go-to magazines.   I've been very satisfied.

 

All three of the common twists do fine on the 55 and 62. If you shot a lot of light fast bullets rather than the heavier ones, you'd almost certainly be better off with a 1:9, as most all "varmint" configs are.

 

- OS

Edited November 3, 2013 by Oh Shoot

[Clod Stomper]

I saw something at the gun show Saturday that I've been waiting for for a long time. Polymer UPPERS!

Didn't get one because I had no money, but I will at some point. You may want to look into one to save a few more ounces.