TGO AR Build Deals

[Luke E.]

So it sounds like my best bet then is to go with the standard LPK unless there is $100 2 stage trigger you can suggest.   Most I'm seeing are considerably more than that.   

 

 I would personally steer clear of a 2 stage trigger regardless of price especially for an AR unless you are building a precision rifle or just plan to shoot from a bench all the time with it. That's just my opinion and while i'm handing it out for free i'll go ahead and say that I personally wouldn't even by a 2 stage for a precision rifle build. For an AR with a normal life ahead of it a fairly light (3.5-4.5lb) pull with a clean and crisp break will serve you best. Take a look at JP's offerings, you and get their spring set to replace the springs in a mil-spec pack and have a decent trigger or for not much more you can buy their whole set up minus the speed hammer which you don't have to run, and have a great trigger in my opinion! I would like to eventually switch all of mine over.

[Luke E.]

 The lower could be polymer, like one of those Frontiers that go for 100 bucks but see now and then on sale for 79 and 89, that would cover a lot of it. 

 

 

 I saw a site running a deal on Frontier poly lowers and they had them for $89 with LPK installed! All it needed to be a complete lower was stock, buffer tube, buffer and spring. You'd have to stay up all night to beat that. I'll look back tomorrow and try to find the site but it has been a few months back

[Guest Keal G Seo]

So it sounds like my best bet then is to go with the standard LPK unless there is $100 2 stage trigger you can suggest.   Most I'm seeing are considerably more than that.   

IDK about $100 but for less than the Spike's kit Brownells has a CMMG LPK with 2 stage for $155.
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-amp-action-parts/parts-kits/ar15-lpk-w-2-stage-trigger-sku100011171-55088-111712.aspx 
If however you want budget friendly the trigger adjusting grip screws I mentioned are only $10-15.

I would not recommend lightened springs though unless you are only shooting premium ammo. I haven't had much luck with them and surplus (bulk) ammo. The primers are usually a bit harder in surplus and I end up with a lot of light strikes.

[Luke E.]

IDK about $100 but for less than the Spike's kit Brownells has a CMMG LPK with 2 stage for $155.
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-amp-action-parts/parts-kits/ar15-lpk-w-2-stage-trigger-sku100011171-55088-111712.aspx
If however you want budget friendly the trigger adjusting grip screws I mentioned are only $10-15.

I would not recommend lightened springs though unless you are only shooting premium ammo. I haven't had much luck with them and surplus (bulk) ammo. The primers are usually a bit harder in surplus and I end up with a lot of light strikes.

What brand ammo have you had problems running? I have about 6-7,000 rounds through one AR that has light springs and I honestly can't ever remember 1 single light strike. Surplus ammo may be using a bit harder material but lightened springs should not make a difference unless you get to a very extreme setup.

[Guest Keal G Seo]

What brand ammo have you had problems running? I have about 6-7,000 rounds through one AR that has light springs and I honestly can't ever remember 1 single light strike. Surplus ammo may be using a bit harder material but lightened springs should not make a difference unless you get to a very extreme setup.

Wolf an Tula are the ones I usually order bulk...whichever has a better deal when I order. I am not sure what brand springs I had...if they are a brand at all. They had a green tint to them and if I remember correctly they were supposed to drop it to 2.5-3 lbs.
I do see most of the lightened springs now are going for 3.5-4.5 so maybe they were just too light. Might work better for rim fire? I would only have a light strike with about 1/20 so it wasn't horrible but enough that in a SHTF/defensive situation I wouldn't count on them.

[KKing]

And this:
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/palmetto-state-armory-classic-lpk-overmolded-grip-black.html

Thank you sir. Didn't necessarily NEED it, but I'll use it in the next month or 2. For what it's worth, those grips aren't bad at all. They don't have near as much thickness as Magpul, but the rubber is nice

[Luke E.]

Wolf an Tula are the ones I usually order bulk...whichever has a better deal when I order. I am not sure what brand springs I had...if they are a brand at all. They had a green tint to them and if I remember correctly they were supposed to drop it to 2.5-3 lbs.
I do see most of the lightened springs now are going for 3.5-4.5 so maybe they were just too light. Might work better for rim fire? I would only have a light strike with about 1/20 so it wasn't horrible but enough that in a SHTF/defensive situation I wouldn't count on them.

I agree, 1 in 20 is far from acceptable. 2.5 pounds is really light and I don't think I have anything under 4 pounds. I've just never had light strike issues with any commercial or handloads. I've used a great many wolf and Tula primers in my .223 and 300aac loads and have not had a single issue so I guess there is a line somewhere between your 2.5lb and my 4lb that when dropped below, problems start. If you look at JP's site it says something about light strikes when you get below a certain weight (I believe it's 3.5lb). A 4-4.5lb crisp single stage trigger for an AR is plenty light unless it's a competition rifle i guess.

[southernasylum]

Ordered one of these earlier.
PSA MOE lower build kit and 5 pmags $159.99.
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05/lower-parts/magpul-5-pmags-moe-lower-build-kit-black-mag571lbkb.html

I just ordered one of these as well. The new pics David posted have me excited. Now time to look into uppers.
-southernasylum

[mikegideon]

I agree, 1 in 20 is far from acceptable. 2.5 pounds is really light and I don't think I have anything under 4 pounds. I've just never had light strike issues with any commercial or handloads. I've used a great many wolf and Tula primers in my .223 and 300aac loads and have not had a single issue so I guess there is a line somewhere between your 2.5lb and my 4lb that when dropped below, problems start. If you look at JP's site it says something about light strikes when you get below a certain weight (I believe it's 3.5lb). A 4-4.5lb crisp single stage trigger for an AR is plenty light unless it's a competition rifle i guess.

 

Reducing the power of the hammer spring is usually the wrong way to lighten a trigger. There's no real substitute for good parts. Agree 2.5 pounds is light for a scrappin' rifle, especially if it's done wrong.. 

[Luke E.]

Reducing the power of the hammer spring is usually the wrong way to lighten a trigger. There's no real substitute for good parts. Agree 2.5 pounds is light for a scrappin' rifle, especially if it's done wrong.. 

 

I've got a reduced power hammer spring in mine and it still puts as much of a dent in a primer as it ever did before but I can see where a little to much can turn the table. Heck I even cut one of the legs off of an old hammer spring (saw it on another forum) and be the remaining side up slightly just for fun and to see how much difference it would make and if it would effect reliability. I left it in the rifle for several range trips and never had a moments trouble with it setting off a Wolf primer. I was quite impressed with the way that "trigger job" turned out and it was free. I just wanted to try it out of curiosity but I wouldn't do it again, I would just buy the spring kit from JP

[mikegideon]

I've got a reduced power hammer spring in mine and it still puts as much of a dent in a primer as it ever did before but I can see where a little to much can turn the table. Heck I even cut one of the legs off of an old hammer spring (saw it on another forum) and be the remaining side up slightly just for fun and to see how much difference it would make and if it would effect reliability. I left it in the rifle for several range trips and never had a moments trouble with it setting off a Wolf primer. I was quite impressed with the way that "trigger job" turned out and it was free. I just wanted to try it out of curiosity but I wouldn't do it again, I would just buy the spring kit from JP

 

All comes down to what you're willing to accept. Dropping the hammer force to compensate for a shitty trigger will lighten the pull (and increase lock time), but it ain't the same as a good trigger. It also increases the chances of light strikes, even if you haven't had one. Not trying to give you crap. Just telling you why I'll go to a well engineered solution like Geissele before I'll hack on a crappy stock trigger. Dolomite's kit, properly set up, is an exception to that. I have one gun that can't use the Geisseles because of too much hammer force. It has a stock FCG, and is screaming for a Dolomite kit. 

[Luke E.]

All comes down to what you're willing to accept. Dropping the hammer force to compensate for a ####ty trigger will lighten the pull (and increase lock time), but it ain't the same as a good trigger. It also increases the chances of light strikes, even if you haven't had one. Not trying to give you crap. Just telling you why I'll go to a well engineered solution like Geissele before I'll hack on a crappy stock trigger. Dolomite's kit, properly set up, is an exception to that. I have one gun that can't use the Geisseles because of too much hammer force. It has a stock FCG, and is screaming for a Dolomite kit. 

 

 I only "hacked" on the stock springs to satisfy curiosity and since actual parts had been ordered to replace them, I figured that was a good time to try it out. I'm not disagreeing with you that it is no comparison to high end trigger sets and i'm not even arguing that modifying stock parts is a great idea (because it's not). All i'm stating is a lighter spring kit is a cheap improvement for someone that doesn't have $200+ to spend on the real deal. I've got a couple of Dolomite's sets and it did an outstanding job on one rifle and did a good job on another (one was way worse that the other to start with) So anyone following this thread that hasn't tried one of Dolomite's set ups really should give it a shot... He offers the best guarantee i've ever seen so you haven't got anything at all to lose.  

[mikegideon]

 I only "hacked" on the stock springs to satisfy curiosity and since actual parts had been ordered to replace them, I figured that was a good time to try it out. I'm not disagreeing with you that it is no comparison to high end trigger sets and i'm not even arguing that modifying stock parts is a great idea (because it's not). All i'm stating is a lighter spring kit is a cheap improvement for someone that doesn't have $200+ to spend on the real deal. I've got a couple of Dolomite's sets and it did an outstanding job on one rifle and did a good job on another (one was way worse that the other to start with) So anyone following this thread that hasn't tried one of Dolomite's set ups really should give it a shot... He offers the best guarantee i've ever seen so you haven't got anything at all to lose.  

 

I've hacked on triggers before. Thank god I've never had the nads to take a stone to the sear surfaces. Not saying that's wrong, and not one good solution. Just saying that nobody, including me wants ME doing it. At least lightening the hammer spring doesn't impact safety. Safety margin is probably the biggest reason the stock AR trigger sucks as bad as it does. That and crappy tolerances. If you don't use better parts (or turn them into better parts), there's nothing you can gain without giving up something else.

 

At this point in time, Geissele is reaching down into the cheaper options. Actually, that's what they've done since their first one, which is still the most expensive. It makes less sense now than it ever has to try to put lipstick on that pig, when better parts attack the problem directly. There's even an option now from their new company, to buy improved stock trigger parts from them. Or, the new SSA that ships without a slave pin, and is missing the laser engraving. I've felt one of those. Feels like an SSA. 

[gregintenn]

I came across an old thread on a website last night about building a sub $300 AR. The purpose was to take it to the range and not worry about it getting beat up. One reply was if he were to bang it around like he was thinking it probably wouldnt work which the reply was "Thats the point". Later on I see a slightly newer thread that the guy did it for around $250. This was around 2010 or 11.

 

I think you could still do that today. The lower could be polymer, like one of those Frontiers that go for 100 bucks but see now and then on sale for 79 and 89, that would cover a lot of it. This person then went on to buy as many used parts as he could find. I think with a good inspection, cleaning etc, that you might be able to find those parts cheap. On a gun like that optics wouldnt need to be $1000+, you could get by with a UTG. And there are plenty of cheap bipods on ebay and Amazon.

 

Just for sheets and giggles I think I am going to give it a try. Im setting my goal at under $325 because from searching around last night, I believe thats a realistic goal.

 

Going to follow this thread and see if I cant build a hooptie AR.

What do you plan to do for a barrel?

[gregintenn]

I've hacked on triggers before. Thank god I've never had the nads to take a stone to the sear surfaces. Not saying that's wrong, and not one good solution. Just saying that nobody, including me wants ME doing it. At least lightening the hammer spring doesn't impact safety. Safety margin is probably the biggest reason the stock AR trigger sucks as bad as it does. That and crappy tolerances. If you don't use better parts (or turn them into better parts), there's nothing you can gain without giving up something else.

 

At this point in time, Geissele is reaching down into the cheaper options. Actually, that's what they've done since their first one, which is still the most expensive. It makes less sense now than it ever has to try to put lipstick on that pig, when better parts attack the problem directly. There's even an option now from their new company, to buy improved stock trigger parts from them. Or, the new SSA that ships without a slave pin, and is missing the laser engraving. I've felt one of those. Feels like an SSA. 

Maybe it was just dumb luck, but I really. REALLY improved the trigger on my mini 14. It is still perfectly safe and reliable. I think the SKS is next. I haven't really looked at how the AR trigger works yet, but it'll be hard not to figure out with this upcoming TGO AR build.

Edited November 8, 2013 by gregintenn

[mikegideon]

Maybe it was just dumb luck, but I really. REALLY improved the trigger on my mini 14. It is still perfectly safe and reliable. I think the SKS is next. I haven't really looked at how the AR trigger works yet, but it'll be hard not to figure out with this upcoming TGO AR build.

 

Gun Doc did my Mini 14 trigger. All you can do with that is hit it with stones. I had to send it back to him once. Beautiful trigger, but it was doubling sometimes. Gun Doc is considered the best Mini 14 trigger guy on the planet. From the master himself...

 

http://greatwestgunsmithing.com/mini%20trigger%20low%20quality.html

 

Good thing you didn't screw it up. Ruger will violate you anally for that.

Edited November 9, 2013 by mikegideon

[analog_kidd]

Pack of 3 Magpul PMags for $36 at MIdway. No tax or shipping.

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/218760/product?cm_mmc=pe_Tier3-_-Super_Sonic_Promos-_-Other_20131108_1-_-Main_Image&cm_mmca1=midwayusa@pc-networx.com&cm_mmca2=CustNum=101477550

[Luke E.]

I've hacked on triggers before. Thank god I've never had the nads to take a stone to the sear surfaces. Not saying that's wrong, and not one good solution. Just saying that nobody, including me wants ME doing it. At least lightening the hammer spring doesn't impact safety. Safety margin is probably the biggest reason the stock AR trigger sucks as bad as it does. That and crappy tolerances. If you don't use better parts (or turn them into better parts), there's nothing you can gain without giving up something else.

 

At this point in time, Geissele is reaching down into the cheaper options. Actually, that's what they've done since their first one, which is still the most expensive. It makes less sense now than it ever has to try to put lipstick on that pig, when better parts attack the problem directly. There's even an option now from their new company, to buy improved stock trigger parts from them. Or, the new SSA that ships without a slave pin, and is missing the laser engraving. I've felt one of those. Feels like an SSA. 

 

 I think you are missing that I completely agree with what you are saying. One would be dumb to go buy a mil-spec trigger pack with the intention of modifying it, but if one already had it installed and could only afford the springs then more power to them. It is an improvement, not the improvement that a Geissele setup would be but better than Mil-spec.

 On another note, Have you ever had any dealings with whatever 2 stage that Armalite uses? A buddy has one and he gets light strikes. Not the 1 in 20 mentioned above but maybe 1 in 100 and it's not even a light smooth pull. 

[mikegideon]

 I think you are missing that I completely agree with what you are saying. One would be dumb to go buy a mil-spec trigger pack with the intention of modifying it, but if one already had it installed and could only afford the springs then more power to them. It is an improvement, not the improvement that a Geissele setup would be but better than Mil-spec.

 On another note, Have you ever had any dealings with whatever 2 stage that Armalite uses? A buddy has one and he gets light strikes. Not the 1 in 20 mentioned above but maybe 1 in 100 and it's not even a light smooth pull. 

 

I think you're missing that I'm just running on about triggers. I'm not really a trigger snob, 'cause I'll shoot a stock AR trigger without bitching. I've done light springs before, but I knew the consequences. We're on a gun board with a lot of lurkers. Lighten your springs if you want... just know the potential consequences. I don't think I've ever touched a gun made by Armalite. Haven't avoided them, just haven't run across them.

[Luke E.]

I think you're missing that I'm just running on about triggers. I'm not really a trigger snob, 'cause I'll shoot a stock AR trigger without bitching. I've done light springs before, but I knew the consequences. We're on a gun board with a lot of lurkers. Lighten your springs if you want... just know the potential consequences. I don't think I've ever touched a gun made by Armalite. Haven't avoided them, just haven't run across them.

 

 I'm one that will try most anything once, especially if it's free or cheap. That's kinda how I've always learned things.

 

 I've not only have no experience with Armalite but also 2 stage triggers. I just know that a 2 stage trigger has no place in my rifles unless maybe just maybe I had a bench gun that I tried one in. Just don't care for them. My buddy kept having the pins walking out of his lower when firing even at a medium rate. I pretty well knew what the problem was so told him to bring it over so I could set the hammer spring legs where they are supposed to go. Thats when I noticed it was a two stage and went outside to shoot it. It is no lighter than any mil-spec pack i've ever felt and wasn't as smooth. The reason I asked though is that there are 3 positions for the spring on the disconnect thing. I am just curious what those do, like does is effect pull weight or just disconnect timing?

[mikegideon]

 I'm one that will try most anything once, especially if it's free or cheap. That's kinda how I've always learned things.

 

 I've not only have no experience with Armalite but also 2 stage triggers. I just know that a 2 stage trigger has no place in my rifles unless maybe just maybe I had a bench gun that I tried one in. Just don't care for them. My buddy kept having the pins walking out of his lower when firing even at a medium rate. I pretty well knew what the problem was so told him to bring it over so I could set the hammer spring legs where they are supposed to go. Thats when I noticed it was a two stage and went outside to shoot it. It is no lighter than any mil-spec pack i've ever felt and wasn't as smooth. The reason I asked though is that there are 3 positions for the spring on the disconnect thing. I am just curious what those do, like does is effect pull weight or just disconnect timing?

 

I'm thinking second stage pull weight. Here's my favorite carbine trigger...

 

Edited November 9, 2013 by mikegideon

[Luke E.]

I'm thinking second stage pull weight

 

 Makes sense. He isn't happy with the trigger but doesn't want to spend the money on a new setup. I could adjust it for him but if the 1st stage is remains the same then it really doesn't matter.

[musicman]

Just got the shipping notification for my PSA Magpul MOE LBK w 5 pmags. Should be here Wednesday. :-)

Still haven't gotten my upper... thinking about going with this: http://www.shop.masdefense.com/16-556-223-BARRELED-UPPER-VECTOR-12-SERIES-165VRBU.htm

[TripleDigitRide]

Just got the shipping notification for my PSA Magpul MOE LBK w 5 pmags. Should be here Wednesday. :-)

Still haven't gotten my upper... thinking about going with this: http://www.shop.masdefense.com/16-556-223-BARRELED-UPPER-VECTOR-12-SERIES-165VRBU.htm

Had a great e perfect with MAS Defense.

[z0mbies fear me]

Just got the shipping notification for my PSA Magpul MOE LBK w 5 pmags. Should be here Wednesday. :-)

Me too :)