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Ever used a buffer tube without a castle nut?


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Just wanted to make sure. I was going to go with the Phase 5, but I don't really care for the white lettering on the tube. I think I'm going to go with this, also adding the 3"-4" foam tube. I think that will look good.

 

That thing full carbine length? (if you shoot pistol with tube alongside cheek as I do, you'll want the length -- lots of folks use rifle tube to get that little bit extra even).

 

- OS

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Main thing with the castle nut is if the tube doesn't have a shoulder and/or you can't fully seat it without it interfering with the buffer retainer. I've seen many tubes you must index to properly locate for the retainer. In these cases the tube didn't seat against anything and would freely turn left and right. I wouldn't shoot anything that wouldn't seat fully myself. You're going to wind up with the buffer spring inside your lower and/or unnecessary wear and tear on the tube's thread area of the lower. If it seats and you can get a decent lockdown tightness with it you'll be fine. In the pic above you can see that tube has a shoulder. That's the type you'd want to be sure you had. Something that provides some negative resistance when tightening to put Newton's theory to work :o) Edited by LawEnforcementSalesTN
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Main thing with the castle nut is if the tube doesn't have a shoulder and/or you can't fully seat it without it interfering with the buffer retainer. )

 

You beat me to it. No reason for a castle nut if you're not using a carbine stock. It's only there so you can line the stock up with the rifle. I have a couple of the Noveske QD plates. Best I can tell, they're the same thickness as a stock end plate.

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