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Caliper Recommendation?


Guest macmonkey

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Guest macmonkey

Greetings,

I'm brand new to reloading and loving it. I need to purchase a caliper. I see home depot has 2 different models - $60 and $130.

Amazon has some for between $10 - $30. Can anyone tell me if the inexpensive one's are worth having? I would love to have one of the $10 ones but if they aren't even worth the $10 then I guess it won't do me any good.

Any comments are appreciated.

Thanks

jw

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I'd stay away from plastic. I have a steel inch/metric 6 inch vernier by Central Forge (Chinese) that I used for several years before I found a used Mitutoyo digital caliper.

I'll sell the vernier unit - it's in it's original wood box, but the foam lining has crumbled and is gone.

Edited by enfield
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Guest bang-flash

I use some digi calipers made by fowler. Plastic calipers will measure inaccurately when the jaws get worn down. Best to stick with metal ones as stated above.

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Guest Jason F.

Buy a good set of dial calipers from a quality maker. Mitutoyo, old Fowler, older SPI (newer ones are made in China and flex easily), Mahr, or Brown and Sharpe.

Do not bother with something digital. I use them for work but even my high dollar Mitutoyo digital set can not be trusted for fine tolerance work. They also must be kept very clean and dry. A little dust or shaving can cause problems with the pickup. Dial units repeat better, never need a battery, do not need to be zeroed or reset as often, and generally work better long term. Bonus is a good set of dial calipers is cheaper than a cheap set of digital ones.

Most of the tools in my box came from Ebay, craigslist, or estate sales. Most of them were from other machinist that were getting out of the trade and selling things off.

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The $20 one that you can get at Harbor Freight tools are honestly as good as any for the work that you are doing (reloading). The more expensive ones are nice, but for as little as you use them...no problem with the cheap ones.

That and you don't cry if you drop it.

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Get a good set of Brown & Sharpe or Starrett’s.

Calipers are not a high precision instrument like a micrometer; but the cheap ones are not accurate and they don’t always repeat. The fact that they physically work means nothing if they aren’t right.

You should have a least one gage block or gage pin to check them with; otherwise you have no idea if they are right. That’s why you can rotate the dial.

There are applications for both digital and dials. Dials have an advantage in that you can roll a casing in them and quickly see out of roundness.

Calipers are designed for quick measurement within a couple of thousandths. Any closer than that and you should have a micrometer.

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