TGO Lowers "what your going to build" "how to build" General discussion thread

[mikegideon]

 YES on the torque wrench! I was thinking AR specific and left that out. I also use the painters tape (the green if you have it), I usually fold up some new print or some kind of paper and tape it to the left side of the receiver for installing the bolt catch roll pin which allows you to slide the hammer down the side to drive the pin without scratching anything. I don't have any roll pin punches and have never scratched a receiver doing it this way. My tools and about $40,000 worth of 4 wheeler mowers surveying equipment etc... was stolen and I have just never picked up another set of roll pin punches but will next time I see a set.

 

I have a long roll pin punch. No sliding the hammer for me. I still tape it up in case something slips.

[mikegideon]

Something that is really helpful that you may or may not need is an adjustable rail aligner.  It clamps on to your flattop and keeps the rail square to it and then the same for a gas block if you put a railed one on.

 

I just use an optic. Whatever will span the gap.

[gjohnsoniv]

Or that. It comes in handy when your gas block isn't on the same plane as your rail.  That's why I used it.

[mcordell]

Yeah IMO you don't need loctite for your typical brake/flash hider ... Crush washer does what it's suppose to do

Grease for the barrel nut needs to be graphite free ( to prevent galvanic corrison with aluminum ) ... The only Milspec rated grease I use is aeroshell 33ms.. Deffinately no loctite on the barrel nut

As far as a armorers wrench the absolute best I have found is by gem state armory ..... AWESOME tool trust me buy one

http://www.gem-state-armory.com/ar-armorers-wrench/ Edited October 6, 2013 by mcordell

[mikegideon]

Yeah IMO you don't need loctite for your typical brake/flash hider ... Crush washer does what it's suppose to do

Grease for the barrel nut needs to be graphite free ( to prevent galvanic corrison with aluminum ) ... The only Milspec rated grease I use is aeroshell 33ms.. Deffinately no loctite on the barrel nut

As far as a armorers wrench the absolute best I have found is by gem state armory ..... AWESOME tool trust me buy one

http://www.gem-state-armory.com/ar-armorers-wrench/

 

I've only used some blue on one brake, because the instructions said to. Of course, it melts as soon as you start shooting. You need Rockset if you're really gonna lock the threads on a muzzle device. But like you said... not needed with a crush washer.

[Luke E.]

I've only used some blue on one brake, because the instructions said to. Of course, it melts as soon as you start shooting. You need Rockset if you're really gonna lock the threads on a muzzle device. But like you said... not needed with a crush washer.

 

 I tend to leave Locktite in the tube because I like being able to take stuff off when I take the notion. I have noticed the JP brakes have no crush washer so they may need a drop but I don't know what they suggest. I had a heck of a time taking the A2 of of my .223/5.56 and it had no Locktite so I can only imagine what it would have been like if it had! I might have had to ask several of you to come over to help!

[mikegideon]

 I tend to leave Locktite in the tube because I like being able to take stuff off when I take the notion. I have noticed the JP brakes have no crush washer so they may need a drop but I don't know what they suggest. I had a heck of a time taking the A2 of of my .223/5.56 and it had no Locktite so I can only imagine what it would have been like if it had! I might have had to ask several of you to come over to help!

 

My JP brake has a crush washer. I don't remember if they sent one, but I always put one on. I don't like backing nuts or peel washers.

[Luke E.]

My JP brake has a crush washer. I don't remember if they sent one, but I always put one on. I don't like backing nuts or peel washers.

 

The one the JP rep at the 3gun pro/am at Rockcastle was showing me theirs. Unless you knew what you were looking for it looked like the barrel was turned down with the comp machined into it but he spun it off and told me that one wasn't supposed to have one. I'm guessing that if you were instaling it on another barrel it might need one though. It was super clean looking!

[mikegideon]

The one the JP rep at the 3gun pro/am at Rockcastle was showing me theirs. Unless you knew what you were looking for it looked like the barrel was turned down with the comp machined into it but he spun it off and told me that one wasn't supposed to have one. I'm guessing that if you were instaling it on another barrel it might need one though. It was super clean looking!

 

I have a stainless one on a stainless barrel with a black crush washer

[Luke E.]

I have a stainless one on a stainless barrel with a black crush washer

 

 A man after my own heart!  :rofl:

[Luke E.]

Attention anyone looking to build 300blk out of their lower and intend to load for it, there's a guy selling dies, brass and projectiles in the classifieds

 

http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/71098-300blk-brass-bullets-dies/

[Guest Keal G Seo]

Whoa! Don't put Loctite on a barrel nut. You use grease, which is kinda the opposite

I use blue (the lighter loctite) on just about everything with threads. I know if I send a couple hundred rounds down it the heat will just kill it but I don't usually* shoot that much and when I do I do a full strip to clean. Blue loctite is easily broken as long as you don't go overboard with it. I've heard to use everything from grease to teflon tape on it...I have just not personally ever had one seize on me so I don't. If it does ever happen I guess I am SOL and will start doing it but until then...

Edited October 7, 2013 by Keal G Seo

[Luke E.]

I use blue (the lighter loctite) on just about everything with threads. I know if I send a couple hundred rounds down it the heat will just kill it but I don't usually* shoot that much and when I do I do a full strip to clean. Blue loctite is easily broken as long as you don't go overboard with it. I've heard to use everything from grease to teflon tape on it...I have just not personally ever had one seize on me so I don't. If it does ever happen I guess I am SOL and will start doing it but until then...

 

 

 There's always more than one way to skin a cat huh.. As long as the end result is the same for you, I say it's a good way of doing it.

[mikegideon]

 There's always more than one way to skin a cat huh.. As long as the end result is the same for you, I say it's a good way of doing it.

 

Maybe even better than the way Colt does it :)

[Chucktshoes]

Unfortunately I will not be able to build my TGO lower. I am not going to be able to buy one as the death of the laptop and it's required replacement just ate up the discretionary fund and then some.

[mikegideon]

Unfortunately I will not be able to build my TGO lower. I am not going to be able to buy one as the death of the laptop and it's required replacement just ate up the discretionary fund and then some.

 

You can't kill zombies with a dang laptop! :)

[Guest Keal G Seo]

You can't kill zombies with a dang laptop! :)

Sure he can!
Okay, I admit my first thought was video games. But now I am thinking remote control firearms. :D

Gonna have to go check into the legality and get back to ya...

[mikegideon]

Sure he can!
Okay, I admit my first thought was video games. But now I am thinking remote control firearms. :D

Gonna have to go check into the legality and get back to ya...

 

Legality? Check right above his avatar.

[Luke E.]

Maybe even better than the way Colt does it :)

Perhaps

[reed1285]

...Maybe some blue painters tape to protect the lower while you get the pin for the bolt release into place since that is the most common, even for seasoned builders, to scratch the receiver.

While it is good to have some blue painters tape like this around for most lowers, it will not be needed on the CMT's, as they use a small hex bolt for the bolt release, instead of a pin.

Edited October 7, 2013 by reed1285

[mikegideon]

Loctite!

[Fourtyfive]

Is there really a big deal between a 6160 and a 7075 buffer tube ? I read that the 6160 is just not as strong ?

[Guest Lester Weevils]

Here is Online Metals short summary of aluminum alloy properties, in case it is useful for anything. Has specs and a couple paragraphs about 6061 and 7075 and others.

 

http://www.onlinemetals.com/aluminumguide.cfm

I like their standard disclaimer--

At OnlineMetals, we all failed shop class. Multiple times. As a matter of fact, our employment applications specifically ask to see people's grades for their high school shop classes. If they're too high, they go into the rejected pile. We're also not engineers, and cannot make any specific recommendations about the suitability of a given alloy, temper, or shape for your project or application.

 

[Fourtyfive]

Here is Online Metals short summary of aluminum alloy properties, in case it is useful for anything. Has specs and a couple paragraphs about 6061 and 7075 and others.
 
http://www.onlinemetals.com/aluminumguide.cfm

I like their standard disclaimer--

So no 6061 tubes even if their on sale ?

[Luke E.]

So no 6061 tubes even if their on sale ?

I have one of each and have kinda studied over it a fair bit. The debate seems to always be over the hardness of the material but I think the weakness of the commercial tube comes just as much from the extra length and leverage as it does from the softness of the material. Now with the extra leverage created by the longer commercial tube it would be easier to pull the threads off end compared to the shorter mil spec tube. I've never had one of mine or personally seen either of them fail but I have 2 commercial tubes and 2 mil spec tubes sitting on my bench and in my rifles (all used) and the commercial tubes do have more boogered threads than the mil specs do. Could be that some have had an easier life than others but if others chime in with the same findings then we'll have something more to base all of this on.