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TGO Lowers "what your going to build" "how to build" General discussion thread


Luke E.

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How old do you think they will be when you will feel comfortable giving them to them? Or rather teach them to shoot them? Whether you think you will allow them to start shooting at 8yrs or at 12yrs makes a difference. Also going with a pistol caliber or even a .223/5.56 would be okay because you could always throw a .22lr conversion in them until you think they are ready to move up. That may be the best idea because you could use them in a caliber of your choice and then throw a .22 conversion in when they are ready or even just build new uppers to suit their needs and abilities.

 

They can use other appropriate firearms as they are growing up.  They can have them when they adults and ready - I suppose I'll know when that is... or maybe just when I kick the bucket.  

 

... something like a Annie Oakley special for her - accurate, light touches.  A CQC rifle for him.

 

I'm thinking an 16 or 18" 1/7 twist for her in 5.56.  Maybe a 16" 6.8SPC for him.

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I believe I would like to build mine with an A2 stock, triangle fore end, 20"barrel, and removable carry handle. Any leads on a good deal on these parts or other suggestions would be appreciated.

 

I have almost exactly this in progress right now., but mine is an A1 replica. I'll send you some links when I can find them again. 

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They can use other appropriate firearms as they are growing up. They can have them when they adults and ready - I suppose I'll know when that is... or maybe just when I kick the bucket.

... something like a Annie Oakley special for her - accurate, light touches. A CQC rifle for him.

I'm thinking an 16 or 18" 1/7 twist for her in 5.56. Maybe a 16" 6.8SPC for him.


I don't think you can go wrong with either of this choices then. Another option for you, I was at the range with Sonny and a couple of his friends today and one if them had an ak74 that had had the opportunity to run a little. I had not run anything chamber in 5.45x39 before but that was a very very soft shooting gun. It's almost got me reconsidering a pistol caliber for my wife due to extremely cheap ammo and it not having much more recoil than the two pistol cal. AR's that I've run. I think they said that they picked up 1080 rounds for $150 or so! Can't beat tgat with a stick.
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THE FURNITURE IS EITHER CRACKED BUT USEABLE OR THE FURNITURE IS BROKEN AND WILL NEED TO BE REPAIRED/REPLACED.

 

I don't know anything about those kind of parts, but $350 for broken parts sounds steep.

For ORIGINAL nam era Colt stuff, not bad says I, though that caption is a bit worrisome.

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THE FURNITURE IS EITHER CRACKED BUT USEABLE OR THE FURNITURE IS BROKEN AND WILL NEED TO BE REPAIRED/REPLACED.

 

I don't know anything about those kind of parts, but $350 for broken parts sounds steep.

Most of those parts kits have been in the $500's the past couple months but that's probably due more to the panic then anything.

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Question! When putting together the AR upper, is it necessary to check the headspace? If so, how is this done?

 

Hardly anyone ever does, as most everyone gets a barrel with the barrel extension already installed, and that's what sets it, assuming your bolt is also within spec.

 

Of course you're trusting the manufacturer to do it correctly, but as I understand it, they'd have to have really blown it badly for it to not be within spec parameters.

 

- OS

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I am a complete noob at building an AR. I am thinking just a straight forward 5.56 but would like to go for as much quality as I can afford. Would the matching TGO upper be a good choice? What about the bolt group from the same company? I would like something that will reach out to 300 yards.
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I am a complete noob at building an AR. I am thinking just a straight forward 5.56 but would like to go for as much quality as I can afford. Would the matching TGO upper be a good choice? What about the bolt group from the same company? I would like something that will reach out to 300 yards.

 

I am in the same boat as you.

 

I am planning the upper and bolt with the lower.  Then going to build from there.

 

I am thinking about going to one of the group builds if any get planned, might even screw on a pistol barrel first and snap some pictures.  :D

Edited by vontar
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Hardly anyone ever does, as most everyone gets a barrel with the barrel extension already installed, and that's what sets it, assuming your bolt is also within spec.

 

Of course you're trusting the manufacturer to do it correctly, but as I understand it, they'd have to have really blown it badly for it to not be within spec parameters.

 

- OS

 

You can check your headspace on fired brass with one of these. I have one for .223

 

http://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/case-gauges-headspace-tools/mic-cartridge-headspace-tool-308-winchester-sku749006317-33476-69685.aspx?mc_id=12000&ch=csh&gdftrk=gdfV21820_a_7c187_a_7c7313_a_7c749006317_d_749006314_d_20537

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I think the main reason the AR community doesn't worry much about head space is because it's set by the manufacturer rather than the end user, and no manufacturer that didn't consistently do it correctly wouldn't be in biz long, either because folks quit buying or they were sued to death.

 

All the more reason to use bolts from reputable source I guess, as that figures into it too.

 

- OS

Edited by Oh Shoot
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I'm planning on getting the TGO upper, lower and BCG from CMT. Back a few months ago when I decided I wanted to put an AR together, I was planning on buying a complete upper, but now with this deal, I'm looking forward to putting one together from the ground up. To be honest, I've never even held an AR, much less put one together, so I'm a complete beginner.

 

I have been listening to folks here on TGO saying you need some tools to put one together. After watching a few videos it looks like the main thing you need is a set of punch pins. Looking on a few web sites for AR Tools, I see punch pin sets, and a I see several versions of an AR wrench tool.

 

Exactly what tools are required to put one together?

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I'm planning on getting the TGO upper, lower and BCG from CMT. Back a few months ago when I decided I wanted to put an AR together, I was planning on buying a complete upper, but now with this deal, I'm looking forward to putting one together from the ground up. To be honest, I've never even held an AR, much less put one together, so I'm a complete beginner.

 

I have been listening to folks here on TGO saying you need some tools to put one together. After watching a few videos it looks like the main thing you need is a set of punch pins. Looking on a few web sites for AR Tools, I see punch pin sets, and a I see several versions of an AR wrench tool.

 

Exactly what tools are required to put one together?

 

 

Punches, upper vise block, workbench with vise, AR Wrench and that should get you together. There are little tricks here and there but someone would have to show you in person BUT if you have these tools, you can put your rifle together. Directions and youtube videos will be your friend the 1st time through but after that you will be Golden!

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Guest Keal G Seo

I'm planning on getting the TGO upper, lower and BCG from CMT. Back a few months ago when I decided I wanted to put an AR together, I was planning on buying a complete upper, but now with this deal, I'm looking forward to putting one together from the ground up. To be honest, I've never even held an AR, much less put one together, so I'm a complete beginner.

 

I have been listening to folks here on TGO saying you need some tools to put one together. After watching a few videos it looks like the main thing you need is a set of punch pins. Looking on a few web sites for AR Tools, I see punch pin sets, and a I see several versions of an AR wrench tool.

 

Exactly what tools are required to put one together?

Luke covered most of it but you might throw a torque wrench in there as well to get the barrel nut to spec. Maybe some blue painters tape to protect the lower while you get the pin for the bolt release into place since that is the most common, even for seasoned builders, to scratch the receiver. All of this assumes you want to do it right. It would be entirely possible to get the rifle together without any tools though I don't recommend that because you will more than likely end up scratching and dinging the heck out of it trying to use the wrong tools.

If you are just trying to stay as cheap as possible I would just recommend the punches and AR wrench. My first build I just got an AR wrench and punch set. My second build I got a vinyl hammer, both an upper and lower vise block and the torque wrench. The second turned out better IMO.

Oh and don't forget a bit of blue locktite for the barrel nut and flash hider. Also not mentioned is Allen (Hex) keys, but this isn't necessarily what your gas block will use. Just when you order the gas block be sure to check what the bolts for it are.

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Luke covered most of it but you might throw a torque wrench in there as well to get the barrel nut to spec. Maybe some blue painters tape to protect the lower while you get the pin for the bolt release into place since that is the most common, even for seasoned builders, to scratch the receiver. All of this assumes you want to do it right. It would be entirely possible to get the rifle together without any tools though I don't recommend that because you will more than likely end up scratching and dinging the heck out of it trying to use the wrong tools.

If you are just trying to stay as cheap as possible I would just recommend the punches and AR wrench. My first build I just got an AR wrench and punch set. My second build I got a vinyl hammer, both an upper and lower vise block and the torque wrench. The second turned out better IMO.

Oh and don't forget a bit of blue locktite for the barrel nut and flash hider. Also not mentioned is Allen (Hex) keys, but this isn't necessarily what your gas block will use. Just when you order the gas block be sure to check what the bolts for it are.

 

 YES on the torque wrench! I was thinking AR specific and left that out. I also use the painters tape (the green if you have it), I usually fold up some new print or some kind of paper and tape it to the left side of the receiver for installing the bolt catch roll pin which allows you to slide the hammer down the side to drive the pin without scratching anything. I don't have any roll pin punches and have never scratched a receiver doing it this way. My tools and about $40,000 worth of 4 wheeler mowers surveying equipment etc... was stolen and I have just never picked up another set of roll pin punches but will next time I see a set.

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I see folks that have never built an AR before asking for help (probably wise),I'm in Murfreesboro and I'll offer my help to anyone in my area or that wants to come to the area. If there are multiple folks needing help with it we can gather at our warehouse and walk through it all a few times so that everyone is comfortable.

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Luke covered most of it but you might throw a torque wrench in there as well to get the barrel nut to spec. Maybe some blue painters tape to protect the lower while you get the pin for the bolt release into place since that is the most common, even for seasoned builders, to scratch the receiver. All of this assumes you want to do it right. It would be entirely possible to get the rifle together without any tools though I don't recommend that because you will more than likely end up scratching and dinging the heck out of it trying to use the wrong tools.

If you are just trying to stay as cheap as possible I would just recommend the punches and AR wrench. My first build I just got an AR wrench and punch set. My second build I got a vinyl hammer, both an upper and lower vise block and the torque wrench. The second turned out better IMO.

Oh and don't forget a bit of blue locktite for the barrel nut and flash hider. Also not mentioned is Allen (Hex) keys, but this isn't necessarily what your gas block will use. Just when you order the gas block be sure to check what the bolts for it are.

 

Whoa! Don't put Loctite on a barrel nut. You use grease, which is kinda the opposite

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