AR Build Tools Needed

[LDRider]

Planning on one of the TGO lowers and was thinking about buying the Billet upper as well when the time comes.

 

I have not built an AR before but would like to give it a shot. (pun intended) From basic reading here I understand that special tools would be required to build the upper.

 

What tools are needed?

 

Is building an upper not a good idea in my case? Would I be better off with a strippped upper and would I still need special tools?

 

Appreciate any info and advice.

 

Jeff

[TripleDigitRide]

What you will be getting IS a stripped upper.

[TripleDigitRide]

Here's a good link.

http://www.itstactical.com/warcom/firearms/diy-ar-15-build-introduction-parts-and-tools-required/

[gregintenn]

You'll need a dremel tool and a great big pipe wrench to start with. :devil:

[TripleDigitRide]

You'll need a dremel tool and a great big pipe wrench to start with. :devil:

He said AR, not AK. :lol:

[broylz]

i built my first lower with a nail set and a pair of channel lock pliers.

 

since then, I have gotten an AR15 armorers wrench and it gives cleaner results. will evenetually get a set of receiver blocks for a vise as well. not many special tools needed really.

[Oh Shoot]

i built my first lower with a nail set and a pair of channel lock pliers.

 

since then, I have gotten an AR15 armorers wrench and it gives cleaner results. will evenetually get a set of receiver blocks for a vise as well. not many special tools needed really.

 

I went all out on specialty tools for the 3 lowers I've done -- a $5 castle nut wrench.  Actually, on first one, I got Dolomite to tighten it for me. :)

 

Never did an upper, though, found what I wanted complete each time, except for changing handguards. I did eventually buy a hand guard removal tool though, for full disclosure.

 

- OS

Edited September 16, 2013 by Oh Shoot

[gregintenn]

He said AR, not AK. :lol:

Sorry. My mistake. :D

[LDRider]

What you will be getting IS a stripped upper.

 

oops.   :doh:

 

Meant complete.

 

Jeff

[LDRider]

Here's a good link.

http://www.itstactical.com/warcom/firearms/diy-ar-15-build-introduction-parts-and-tools-required/

Thanks for the link.

 

Got it saved.

 

Jeff

[TripleDigitRide]

For the record, I've built a couple without all those tools. The link was to give you a general idea.

There are a ton of videos on YouTube, showing and explaining how to build an AR. That's what I used as a guide to build mine. I watched several, until I found one that had good camera skills and did a good job of explaining the process. I would suggest you watch some.

Once you get all the parts laid out in front of you, it can be a little intimidating. It's not very difficult. Just take your time.

Word of caution: be very careful with the tiny springs. They've been known to shoot across the room, never to be found again.

[mikegideon]

You'll need a dremel tool and a great big pipe wrench to start with. :devil:

 

:eek:

[broylz]

the only thing I ever had an issue with was driving out the pins from the gas block when installing a new barrel nut. most of that was not properly supporting it to get a good hit on the punches.

[TMF]

-- a $5 castle nut wrench.
- OS

I've stopped using mine since I picked up one of them neato strap wrenches. It's the bees knees.

[Dolomite_supafly]

One of the most useful tools is a set of receiver blocks. It keeps the finish from being marred when you tighten the barrel nut down.

 

This is what I got and it works perfectly:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-56-308-UPPER-RECEIVER-BARRELING-BLOCKS-S-A-R-10-Armorers-vise-223-15-16-/121175776650?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c36a39d8a

 

Here is a set with a lower receiver block as well:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pin-Upper-Lower-Receiver-Vise-Block-COMBO-4-15-NO-M-A-R-Gunsmith-Barrel-Tool-/121164214455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c35f330b7

 

These are not bad if all you are building is a few guns.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Armorers-Wrench-combo-too-castle-nut-barrel-NIB-1yr-warranty-Authorized-dealer-/350876409738?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51b1dd1f8a

If you are going to build more than a few you need to buy a better setup but these work fine a few times.

 

Beyond those tools above all you need is very basic tools. Make sure to have a set of punches as well.

[Wingshooter]

Brownells has a great video series, and it also explains the common tools used. I picked up a punch set from Home Depot. If you build the upper, you really need an upper receiver vice block and a barrel nut wrench. You can rent a torque wrench for cheap from Autozone.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11004/guntechdetail/

[Dolomite_supafly]

I do not use a torque wrench for the barrel nut. I have talked to people who do and they say that the gas tube hole rarely lines up at the correct torque setting. I hand tighten the barrel nut then tighen until the barrel nut is lined up correctly for the as tube.

[Hozzie]

One of the most useful tools is a set of receiver blocks. It keeps the finish from being marred when you tighten the barrel nut down.

 

This is what I got and it works perfectly:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-56-308-UPPER-RECEIVER-BARRELING-BLOCKS-S-A-R-10-Armorers-vise-223-15-16-/121175776650?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c36a39d8a

 

Here is a set with a lower receiver block as well:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pin-Upper-Lower-Receiver-Vise-Block-COMBO-4-15-NO-M-A-R-Gunsmith-Barrel-Tool-/121164214455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c35f330b7

 

These are not bad if all you are building is a few guns.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Armorers-Wrench-combo-too-castle-nut-barrel-NIB-1yr-warranty-Authorized-dealer-/350876409738?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51b1dd1f8a

If you are going to build more than a few you need to buy a better setup but these work fine a few times.

 

Beyond those tools above all you need is very basic tools. Make sure to have a set of punches as well.

 

Thanks for the links.  I am starting to buy the things I need to build my two new rifles once we get our uppers and lowers.  I ordered a McGowen Barrel for 300 blk pistol as well.  Looking forward to getting everything and getting them put together.

[LDRider]

Once again, Thanks for all the good info!

 

Very much appreciated.

 

Jeff

[Dave Keenom]

I do not use a torque wrench for the barrel nut. I have talked to people who do and they say that the gas tube hole rarely lines up at the correct torque setting. I hand tighten the barrel nut then tighen until the barrel nut is lined up correctly for the as tube.

This is correct, no need to torque wrench.

[TMF]

This is correct, no need to torque wrench.

 

I've always used a torque wrench when doing builds and have been able to acheive between 35-40 ft lbs and still line up the gas port until a recent build.  I actually email Dolomite on this one because I was worried about it.  I could only get to about 20ish ft lbs and still have the nut line up for the gas tube.  Trying to get to the next notch to accommodate the gas tube took me as high as 80 ft lbs and still couldn't get it to line up, and I didn't feel comfortable trying to get it tighter for several reasons.  I backed it off to the previous notch and went with it.  Shoots fine.

[mikegideon]

I've always used a torque wrench when doing builds and have been able to acheive between 35-40 ft lbs and still line up the gas port until a recent build.  I actually email Dolomite on this one because I was worried about it.  I could only get to about 20ish ft lbs and still have the nut line up for the gas tube.  Trying to get to the next notch to accommodate the gas tube took me as high as 80 ft lbs and still couldn't get it to line up, and I didn't feel comfortable trying to get it tighter for several reasons.  I backed it off to the previous notch and went with it.  Shoots fine.

 

Well... there IS a spec. And, you ain't the first guy to say, "it's out of spec, but works fine". :)  I had one come up dead nuts on 30 a couple weeks ago. I called Dolomite on that one too, because mine normally wind up closer to the top end (vein popping torque). The proper thing to do, if it falls out of spec, is to lap the front of the receiver. Because of the fine threads, it only takes a little... less than the thickness of the finish on the receiver.

 

I always use a torque wrench. Shooting fine ain't the test. If the nut comes loose, it will take a long time to show a problem. Same deal if it's too tight.

[TMF]

Well... there IS a spec. And, you ain't the first guy to say, "it's out of spec, but works fine". :) I had one come up dead nuts on 30 a couple weeks ago. I called Dolomite on that one too, because mine normally wind up closer to the top end (vein popping torque). The proper thing to do, if it falls out of spec, is to lap the front of the receiver. Because of the fine threads, it only takes a little... less than the thickness of the finish on the receiver.

I always use a torque wrench. Shooting fine ain't the test. If the nut comes loose, it will take a long time to show a problem. Same deal if it's too tight.

Yeah, I gotcha. I just didnt have any recourse I felt comfortable with to make it right. I was concerned with either messing up the rifle or breaking my table going past 80 lbs.

[mikegideon]

Yeah, I gotcha. I just didnt have any recourse I felt comfortable with to make it right. I was concerned with either messing up the rifle or breaking my table going past 80 lbs.

 

It's funny. I dug up the lapping trick because of all the vein poppers, and the fact that one came out right for a change. One complete notch is only 3 thousanths. So, you probably only need to take off a thousanth to bring one in. We're talking a couple of light passes over a piece of fine grit sandpaper on a flat surface. They also make barrel nut shims, but who has those? Here...

 

http://www.ar15barrels.com/data/barrel-nut-index.pdf

 

BTW... The reason I called Dolomite was because of the technique I found while looking this stuff up. Torque the barrel nut to 30, and then break it loose and do it again. Go for your final torque after you bring it to 30 the third time. I did that, and it came it came out dead nuts at 30. I thought I may have found the grail. The next one took more.

Edited September 22, 2013 by mikegideon

[Dolomite_supafly]

I will always square up the receiver and that changes the amount the nut will turn to get the gas tube lined up. I have even done it when the barrel nut needed a lot more than it should to line up. On a FORGED upper the key slot for the barrel alignment is punched out. This creates a raised area that tilts the barrel down. Something else is the barrel does not sit flush because it has a high spot at 12 so it touches at the 12 and 6. By squaring it up it makes sure the barrel has 100% contact with the upper receiver. When the barrel doesn't sit flush I think it creates inconsistencies as the gun is firing and heating up.