SS vs. Blued- Which coats better?

[Guest The Itis]

If I were looking to buy a gun that I planned on cerakoting/duracoating/etc, is there any reason to prefer a stainless finish or a blued finish for the gun to be coated?

 

Does one coat better than the other? Hold the coat, diff in prep work required, etc?

[Clod Stomper]

Don't know about Cerakote, but Duracoat works fine on either. Plus aluminum and plastic.

No difference in prep. It just has to be very, very clean. Edited September 13, 2013 by Clod Stomper

[peejman]

If properly prepared (stripped to bare metal), it doesn't matter.

[Lumber_Jack]

If properly prepared (stripped to bare metal), it doesn't matter.

Yep, plenty of stainless gets coated. All coatings can wear off, but properly done they should be tough.

[Guest The Itis]

If properly prepared (stripped to bare metal), it doesn't matter.

 

 

But that's what I mean- stainless already is bare metal, but you would have to remove bluing on a blued gun to get to bare metal.

 

So, stainless is better because of significantly less prep work (noting that a deblued gun will coat the same)

[peejman]

But that's what I mean- stainless already is bare metal, but you would have to remove bluing on a blued gun to get to bare metal.

 

So, stainless is better because of significantly less prep work (noting that a deblued gun will coat the same)

 

Stainless isn't necessarily bare metal.  Some have a clear coat to help protect against scratches.  Regardless, you've got to roughen the surface so the coating will adhere properly.  It might take a few less minutes with stainless, but that's likely not worth the higher initial price of stainless. 

[Guest The Itis]

I see.

If that's the case, do you have to remove the bluing? or can you just roughen the surface and coat?

[peejman]

I see.

If that's the case, do you have to remove the bluing? or can you just roughen the surface and coat?

 

 

I'd remove the bluing.  The best way to do that is blast it with something like 240 grit AlOx media.  That'll clean the bluing off with minimal metal removal and result in an excellently roughed surface for paint adherence.  You can do the same with sandpaper, it's just a lot more labor intensive. 

[Guest The Itis]

Process isn't making sense to me.

 

If you remove the bluing, do you only do it for the outside parts? or are you trying to remove all bluing, even on inside surfaces?

I've seen bluing get removed with vinegar baths, but that seems to me like there will be de-blued parts that spray coats can't reach, meaning rust.

Edited September 14, 2013 by The Itis

[TrickyNicky]

I think you'd be fine for the most part, if you mean like the inside of a reciever, that would get painted as well with the outside. For small internal parts, you would have the gun completely stripped and either not take the finish (if there is even a finish on them) off.

What are you planning on refinishing?

[Guest The Itis]

Still shopping for a carry piece with no particular gun in mind, but I know when I do find one, that I will have it coated in some way in skin tone.
 

[Clod Stomper]

I don't think it is necessary to remove bluing.  It is a good idea to roughen the surface well.  As a matter of fact, anodized aluminum will take Duracoat very well.  And phosphated steel (Parkerized) is an excellent base for Duracoat because it's porous.

 

If you plan to do internals, you may want to do something besides Duracoat as it will change the dimensions of coated pieces.  

 

I've done several guns with Duracoat.  Outsides only.  I think next time I am going to try Cerakote.  I've read that it's more involved, but better overall.

[Guest The Itis]

Yeah I was curious about internal tolerances, esp since it'd be a small gun.

 

Can't just plug up the barrel and spray, huh :yuck:

[peejman]

You wouldn't put duracoat on internal surfaces.  It's just for making the outside look pretty.