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Cleaning powder despenser


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Posted
So I have only used my RCBS uniflow for .223, but wanting to load some .300BLK. I dumped the powder back into the bulk container but it left some residue clinging to the insides. What's the best way to get this out and/or prevent it from sticking?
Posted
I use a brush of some sort like a toothbrush.

As far as something to keep it from sticking I have no clue. I will say that leaving certain powders in the dispenser for any amount of time will cause the sides to warp. And any powder baffle left in will be stuck. I left Lil'Gun in the dispenser for several months and I thought I was going to have to throw the dispenser away. It works again but isn't pretty.
Posted

I use a brush of some sort like a toothbrush.

As far as something to keep it from sticking I have no clue. I will say that leaving certain powders in the dispenser for any amount of time will cause the sides to warp. And any powder baffle left in will be stuck. I left Lil'Gun in the dispenser for several months and I thought I was going to have to throw the dispenser away. It works again but isn't pretty.


Thanks G. The powder janet been in there too long, I'll just flush it out with an old toothbrush and put in the other. Just didn't want cross contamination of a hot powder in my 300 loads.
Posted
I dump mine out after each use, then use the shop vac to get any residue out. Works for me. and a dryer sheet rubbed in the hopper helps with powder clinging.
  • Like 3
Posted

I leave a dryer sheet in the hopper all the time.

 

After I empty it (usually as soon as I am done), I bonk it a few times with a rubber mallet over the garbage can.

  • Like 2
Posted

Some kind of compressed air, air in a can, nitrogen or the like will work well to clean out the hopper.

Posted

I usually leave my powder in the hopper of my Hornady LNL.  The Bullseye was practically glued to the sides of the metal part and had to be wire brushed off......paint and all.  The plastic portion of the hopper was yellowed and blistered from the prolonged contact.  WSF powder slightly yellowed the plastic, but was not stuck to the metal after prolonged exposure.  Haven't had any difficulty with Clays for my shotgun reloader with either of the issues, but the plastic bottles are different.

Posted (edited)
[quote name="R_Bert" post="1020531" timestamp="1377312558"] I leave a dryer sheet in the hopper all the time. After I empty it (usually as soon as I am done), I bonk it a few times with a rubber mallet over the garbage can.[/quote] Does this not impede the flow of powder? Edited by Lumber_Jack
Posted

Hey LJ you need to be running a powder baffle too. They make the powder dispensers a lot more consistent. I make mine using the templates online. I make mine out of old license plates and the side holes are a lot smaller. It keeps the weight of the powder on the measuring tube conssitent whether the hopper is completely full or almost empty. I loaded a few hundred the other day and weighed each charge. They never varied more than .1 grains.

 

http://www.ray-vin.com/tech/hack/baffle.pdf

 

I have never used the dryer sheets but some say it works. The only thing I use dryer sheets in is my tumbler to help keep the dust down but even then it is rare I use one.

 

I just use a brush to loosen any clingy powder.

  • Like 2
Posted

Hey LJ you need to be running a powder baffle too. They make the powder dispensers a lot more consistent. I make mine using the templates online. I make mine out of old license plates and the side holes are a lot smaller. It keeps the weight of the powder on the measuring tube conssitent whether the hopper is completely full or almost empty. I loaded a few hundred the other day and weighed each charge. They never varied more than .1 grains.

http://www.ray-vin.com/tech/hack/baffle.pdf

I have never used the dryer sheets but some say it works. The only thing I use dryer sheets in is my tumbler to help keep the dust down but even then it is rare I use one.

I just use a brush to loosen any clingy powder.


Thanks for the link, I'll make a baffle. I bought one and got home and realized it was for the bigger hopper. Making one will be much simpler.
Posted

Does this not impede the flow of powder?

no.

 

A full drier sheet around the inside diameter of the plastic hopper tube.

 

Pour the powder *inside* the curvature of the sheet (not between the sheet & wall), and the powder then pushes the sheet against the wall.  The bottom of the sheet will on the interface lip of the frame at the bottom of the column.

Posted

anybody else had trouble like I posted with Bullseye?  I mean that stuff wasn't coming out unless scrubbed to the point of taking paint and all off.

Posted

no.

 

A full drier sheet around the inside diameter of the plastic hopper tube.

 

Pour the powder *inside* the curvature of the sheet (not between the sheet & wall), and the powder then pushes the sheet against the wall.  The bottom of the sheet will on the interface lip of the frame at the bottom of the column.

 

I'll be you have the best smelling ammo on the range :)

Posted

I'll be you have the best smelling ammo on the range :)

 

no.

 

A full drier sheet around the inside diameter of the plastic hopper tube.

 

Pour the powder *inside* the curvature of the sheet (not between the sheet & wall), and the powder then pushes the sheet against the wall.  The bottom of the sheet will on the interface lip of the frame at the bottom of the column.

 

 

I'll be you have the best smelling ammo on the range :)

 

Lilac Downey, matter of fact.  use it in the tumbler also.  :ph34r:

Guest johnwhite
Posted

Wash it out with dawn before you use it, that will kill the cling from when it was in transit. Wash it out again when you do a powder change. Since some powders will set up a clinging reaction with other powders. But I wash everything before I use it, open it or put it on. I tape a couple of new folded dryer sheets to the outside of the hopper to stop the cling.

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