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Compound Bows


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I'm glad you asked this...I've never used a compound bow either.

My Great Uncle taught me, as a child, how to shoot a standard recurve bow (about the time the Earth was cooling) but I haven't shot a bow since I was high school age and it's something I've been thinking about picking back up (not for hunting but simply for the fun of shooting it).

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*shrug* I'm still using my all steel Fred Bear White-tail compound bow from the 70's, it's noisy as heck even with string silencers but it still works just fine, I just have to anticipate the deer "jumping the string" when I aim on the animal's killzones.
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WW  I have shot compounds for years What specifically are you looking for ?     

Yes.

 

Lol, I really don't know, I've held a bow once, that's the extent of my experience with them. Our family have always been firearms purists and so I never had ANY interaction with them whatsoever. Heck I thought about getting a longbow so I could use wooden arrows as a compound, from what I've been told, will DESTROY a wood arrow which is why compounds use carbon or metal(I guess?), anyways, point is I know NOTHING of them, like AT ALL, lol. What are some brands? Prices? Performance? Like I said, I don't know which is why I ask as I am completely clueless.

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Yes.

 

Lol, I really don't know, I've held a bow once, that's the extent of my experience with them. Our family have always been firearms purists and so I never had ANY interaction with them whatsoever. Heck I thought about getting a longbow so I could use wooden arrows as a compound, from what I've been told, will DESTROY a wood arrow which is why compounds use carbon or metal(I guess?), anyways, point is I know NOTHING of them, like AT ALL, lol. What are some brands? Prices? Performance? Like I said, I don't know which is why I ask as I am completely clueless.

WW  PM sent

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Basically any bow with a 40# draw can take a white-tail, everything else is personal preference & bells/whistles, if you want to get started in archery I'd suggest buying a good used bow in the 40-60# draw weight, a bunch of arrows (sized correctly for the bow's draw length), a foam target & practice with it a lot.
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The cool thing about primitive hunting is that the best equipment is not necessary. My 25 year old Bear bow will kill a dear just as dead as my new one. However, the newer compound bows have two destinct advantages... cam technology has produced bows that are quieter and can launch a fast arrow at lower pull weights. They are usually smaller (lighter), too. A bow that fits you combined with lots of practice is the most important thing. I prefer to shoot a bow near it's max draw weight. For example, if 50 pounds draw is comfortable, I would want a 50# max draw weight. You will also want to know your draw length and have the bow adjusted to fit you.

There are a lot of good bows on the market, some are a lot more expensive than others. Matthews has a huge marketing department, and you will see them in use on TV the most. They are awsome bows! However, they come with the price tag. Hoyt and PSE are similar. You wont go wrong with any of those. They are the big names but certainly not required. I found really good value in my Martin Firecat. It was less than $400 new (without accessories) it's quiet and shoots a hunting arrow at 290fps.

Something you have to watch out for when bow shopping is whether or not you are buying just the bow or a ready-to-shoot package. On a compound hunting bow, you'll want an arrow rest (Wisker Biscuit brand is great or hunting), a sight (I prefer fiber optic), a quiver, a stabilizer, and a peep sight (functions like the rear sight on a rifle). Some bows are sold as a package with all that already installed. Some bows are sold as just the bow, and you would need to purchase the accessories separately. Just something to keep in mind.

Most people also use a mechanical release instead of fingers on a compound bow... Personal preference.
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Here's a couple videos I used when shopping for a bow of my own

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElNIXcSymcg

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_358816&feature=iv&src_vid=gGReUrgdKao&v=nzmIB5r_r6o

 

I ended up with a Bear Instinct, it's a little older as bows go, but was built with good current tech for its time/price.

 

For $200 I got:

  • Bow w/ drop away rest (replacing this season with a whisker biscuit) and cheap single pin fiber optic sight (replaced after the mount broke with a Trophy Ridge Pursuit)
  • All cams for adjusting draw length
  • Wrist sling
  • STS dampening system w/ stabilizer
  • Side mount quiver
  • 20 carbon express arrows, 12 were brand new
  • 3 bloodrunner broadheads 
  • 3 muzzy broadheads
  • 12 field tips, handful of nocks and screw in inserts
  • mechanical wrist release
  • Allen soft case w/ arrow tube compartment

Things I've done:

  • as stated, bought a new sight - $80
  • had shop install a new string $45 (cables were in great condition - still supple, string had bad wear at the string stop where it didn't have serving)
  • arrows cut down - free, new inserts: cheap, had a bunch already
  • draw length shortened - free (mine came with the adjustments for the cams - not all do, so be careful buying used, these can be hard to find on older/used models)
  • peep sight installed $5

Things I'll be doing this season:

  • replace drop away rest with a whisker biscuit or similar
  • new broadheads to replace the muzzys - they're a bit worn (were well "loved" when I got em) and I'm not much for sharpening these.
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I posted this in a similar thread:

 

 

Trying to find a bow can be an overwhelming task.  Let me break it down for you... Martin, Bowtech, Diamond, Bear, Matthews, PSE, RedHead, G5, Hoyt, LimbSaver, Mission, Parker...the list goes on.  All are very high quality so if someone tells you you should only buy XYZ brand, they dont know what they are talking about.  

 

Back in the day, brands did matter but nowadays, not so much. Also, dont get caught up in IBO speed.  The faster bows get, usually the less comfortable they are to shoot.  IBO speeds also only factor in the lightest acceptable arrow weights (heavier weights are better for hunting/penetration) and the heaviest draw weight with the longest draw length...that criteria may only work for 1% of the population.  Also, the faster the IBO speed, the more expensive the bow.  I would target IBO speeds anywhere from 300-320 or so.  Thats plenty fast and they wont beat you to death either.  

 

So, do yourself a BIG favor and go to a local archery shop.  Not a big box store but an actually archery shop.  The first thing they will do is measure your draw length.  The next thing they should do, is pick out a few bows for you, adjust them and let you shoot them.  Dont be surprised if you get tired quickly.  Bow shooting requires muscles that even the strongest dont typically use!  Pick the bow that is comfortable and you shoot the best.  Also, try and pay some attention to how quiet the bow is.  The reason why is because sound travels faster than an arrow does.  Deer sometimes will "jump the string" meaning the crouch down a few inches in a split second and you often times will shoot over their backs.  The more quiet the bow is, the less likely the deer will be to jump the string.  Don't be too concerned with it either because there are TONS of aftermarket accessories to quiet a bow.   

 

When it comes to budget, the bow is just the first expense.  Then you will need arrows, field tips, broad heads, a case, a release and a target.  Thats assuming the bow you buy is Ready To Hunt (RTH).  

 

It is an AWESOME sport and there is no bigger rush than having an animal within bow range.  Stick with it, practice shooting for your tree stand because its different than shooting from the ground.  Do NOT get discouraged if you miss a deer.  One only needs to watch an afternoon of the Outdoor Channel to figure out that even the best of hunters still miss from time to time.  

 

You may also want to purchase a range finder and that will help your hunting greatly.  Don't be afraid to buy a used bow as well!  There are so many junkies out there that have to have the latest and greatest and will hunt with a bow for 2-3 seasons and then buy the next one.  An archery shop will make sure the bow is in good condition and safe.  That will help you save a lot of money as well!  

 

I hunted the last 10 seasons with an 2001 Martin Cougar Magnum IBO speed of 315.  Back in 01/02, that was one of the most advanced bows made.  Now, I have "upgraded" to a Bear Legion with an IBO speed of 318...so like I said, just because a bow is old/used, doesn't mean its inferior.  

 

Good luck finding a bow!  Keep us updated and post pics when you find one.  

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*shrug* I'm still using my all steel Fred Bear White-tail compound bow from the 70's, it's noisy as heck even with string silencers but it still works just fine, I just have to anticipate the deer "jumping the string" when I aim on the animal's killzones.

Now that's old school!

I went from recurve to compound to crossbow. I love shooting and hunting with crossbow. My number one favorite way to hunt anything is with muzzleloader.

 

DaveS

Crack'a American

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