45ACP. reloading so they function.

[chances R]

Get your taper crimp down to 0.468. Be sure you are placing the bullet on the case mouth as close to perfectly straight as possible. If you feel there is wax and or lead around the case mouth, take some Hornady cleaner/lube on a cloth clean the area by twisting it in cloth several times. This can cause some chamber build up and tightness, especially if you first few rounds are cycling well then it starts getting erratic.

[173rdABN]

I had the same issue with my Tac Ops and reloads. Got a Lee factory crimp die, gave it a decent crimp, and had ZERO jams since. Completely fixed it with a crimp. 

 

Using 6gr Unique with Berry's plated 230 RN, mixed brass and tula or cci primers. 

[mikegideon]

I had the same issue with my Tac Ops and reloads. Got a Lee factory crimp die, gave it a decent crimp, and had ZERO jams since. Completely fixed it with a crimp. 

 

Using 6gr Unique with Berry's plated 230 RN, mixed brass and tula or cci primers. 

 

I think the sizing ring in that die really helps too. .45 bullets like to go in crooked a lot of times, and that really helps straighten them out. I won't load any pistol ammo without the Lee FCD.

[DaveS]

I was having a similar problem with my 1911 and reloads. I was already using the crimp die, but a guy at my local gun shop who custom builds 1911s told me about the recoil spring. I had him install a spring set from "Wilson Combat". That cured my issues, plus I had him polish the feed ramp.

 

DaveS

Crack'a American

[Guest GimpyLeg]

My S-I-L was having the same problem with his Springer GI.  FCD made the difference.  He, too, used 6.0 of Unique.

[RichardR]

I think the sizing ring in that die really helps too. .45 bullets like to go in crooked a lot of times, and that really helps straighten them out. I won't load any pistol ammo without the Lee FCD.

Yup Lee's FCD rawk, personally I think they make a big difference w/regards to the quality of the reloads.

[BigK]

I wouldn't even try the reduced power recoil, if it were up to me. It may make it easier to rack the slide and assist with this issue, but you're just introducing more abuse to the slide stop, barrel link, and barrel legs. You'll get more peeing over time by reducing the spring weight and damage your gun.

About the powder charge...going from 4 grains to 5 grains of Bullseys costs a mere $0.003 (3 tenths of a penny) per round. So, cost savings isn't a realistic factor. I agree with most that this should be your culprit. 5.0 gr of Bullseye with a 230 gr fmj should just get you over 700 fps and enough power to compress the standard spring and cycle the action.

[leroy]

Been watchin this thread with interest.  Lots of good information has been passed along; especially with regard to sizing the brass, overall length, taper crimping, use of loaded round gages (...a must, i think, with semiautos -- pistol or rifle...).  I started off reloading for 38 special and 45 acp lots of years ago (...early 70's...).  Havin said that; here's the principal thing that ive learned in regard to semiauto pistols RE: the "...minimum powder charge..." and velocity thing:

 

The first rule of shootin reloads in a semiauto of any flavor is to understand that the pistol is designed for a particular loading.  That loading is the "factory load" for that particular pistol.  If your load does not meet the minimum impulse - momentum value for that particular loading (...momentum = mass times velocity...); the pistol may not cycle reliably.  The "source" of that failure can be not enough powder, too slow a powder, or too light a bullet. That is why all our brother opiners are recommending a load of at least 5 grains of bullseye in this particular case.

 

Said another way; your reload in a standard pistol (...standard recoil spring...) must meet the ballistics of a "factory round".  If ya want to find a reload combination that works in a "stock" pistol; ya need to first see what the factory load is with the particular bullet ya like; then go to the reloading tables to find one that develops at least the same velocity in your particular pistol at the same bullet weight.

 

Hope this gives a bit clearer perspective on this issue.  It works for all semiautos; regardless of caliber.

 

leroy

 

[BigK]

Excellent way of explaining that, leroy.

[TNMTBik3r]

If you are wanting to shoot a reduced load, you first have to find what works and then slowly reduce powder in stages.

I did this with my 9mm...started midrange with 4.2 grains of Titegroup, verified function and accuracy through 100 rounds and then slowly began reducing powder to get a reliable reduced recoil load. I found that 3.5 grains was the bare minimum for 90% reliability in MY pistol, so I went with 3.7 grains for 100% and a small margin of error with my powder measure or scale.

In this case, it seems you started off on the low side to begin with. My method to find a starting load is look at my manuals and average the min/max loads for the bullet/powder combo between what is in the books (I use 2-5 resources to find the average).

And remember every pistol is different so a minimum reliable load in one may not function in the second. Edited August 27, 2013 by jonathon1289

[tomthumb_KTM]

 

I made loads from 4.1 to 4.7 grains pushing 200 grain LSWC, 230 grain LRN and 230 grain FMJ.  Same Tula Large primers on mostly Winchester brass.

 

 

A couple of things.  Your loads and the amount of powder needed will be different between the 200 grain and the 230.  The LNR and FMJ 230 grain bullets may seat at different depths which also effects the pressure.   You can use calipers and measure the differences in lengths of the LNR and FMJ and subtract the difference to come up with the same seating depth.    Make certain  your OAL hasn't changed drastically.  Your load for 230 grain is light.  Start with 5.1 of Bullseye. That should get you close to a 170 power factor.     

 

You mention factory rounds eject fine.  Have you check factory rounds lately to confirm that this is still correct?  You may have some how tweaked your ejector and without confirming factory rounds still eject properly your are just working in circles.   The slide needs to cycle completely back with a little hang time for the gun to function properly.  If your load is so light that is only coming partially back it will not engage the extractor correctly and can also cause failures to feed properly or both.

 

A Chronograph is a great investment.  The 100.00 bucks you spend on it will save lots of time and frustration in your reloading adventure. It is a small investment when you think about the price of reloading equipment and supplies.

 

Good luck