Looking at the Remmy 700 SPS in .300WinMag

[whitewolf001]

Does anyone out here on the Interwebs have one? I wanna get one since they're priced pretty reasonably, especially for a weapon that can reach out to 1000 yds and still hit with a good punch. I want to eventually convert it to something akin to the M24E1, one the most tactCOOL systems eva! lol :yum:

[Guest Bonedaddy]

Don't know 'bout the 300 mag but the one I had with the 20" bull barrel in .308 was damn accurate. .3-.4 MOA @ 100yds.with FGMM ammo. Smooth shooter, too. 'Bout can't go wrong with'm at that price.

[leroy]

We've burned a lot of powder in the 700's brother; a single shot Remington 40X with a 26 inch bull barrel we bedded and freefloated.  As Bonedaddy said, they are accurate.  It's been several years ago; but we 180 grain matchkings and whatever the lyman accuracy load wuz for IMR 4350.   It would shoot into a couple of inches at 300 or so yards shootin prone over a bedroll usin a 16 power redfield 3200 scope or a 2 inch unertl.  I'm a big fan of the 300 win mag.  They are very accurate and powerful. 

 

In the "old days"; lots of 1000 yd competition records were held with the win mag.  I think they have been supplanted by the 6.5's now; but the 30 cals used to be the kings of the 1000 yard range.  The 40x action is nothin but a trued up remington 700.  I think the remington will make a great base action for a custom rifle.

 

Have fun,

leroy

[Dolomite_supafly]

Also don't discount a Savage.

 

Savages are known for their out of the box accuracy. Something else you can do is twist the barrel in a little more to tighten up the headspace. What that does is makes your brass last a whole lot longer which is a big consideration with expensive brass.

 

Another great thing about all Savages is you can do a barrel, and caliber, swap in about 20 minutes. And you do it without the need of a gunsmith. The barrel nut doesn't need to be tightened by some gorilla on steroids either. All it needs is to be snug. I set my headspace, snug the barrel nut to lock it in place and then I used to use a hammer and punch to lock it in place. I normally give it one whack and call it good. I have yet to have a barrel come loose. I recently picked up a dedicated wrench set for $30 and it makes life a little easier with certain barrel nuts but the punch method is perfectly acceptable.

 

WIth a Savage you can buy a spare bolt head in another rim diameter for ~$25 and swap it at home. To swap bolt heads on a Remington requires a new $150 bolt. $25 for a Savage vs $150 for a Remington.

 

Factory Savage barrels can be had for $125-$200 depending on profile and length and can be installed at home without the need for a gunsmith. So for ~$150 you can have everything to swap to completely different caliber with a Savage. With a Remington you are talking about $300+ to do the same, because of the lathe time needed to set the headspace, and that is if you stay within the same rim diameter. If you have to change rim diameters add the $150 because you have to buy a completely seperate bolt and not just the bolt head. So the cost swap to swap barrels on a Savage is <$200 vs $300+ for a Remington. If you have to use a different bolt head the cost is <$225 for a Savage and $450+ for a Remington. There is no labor cost in swapping in a Savage and once you own the barrel there are no more costs associated with swapping the barrels.

 

Aftermarket match barrels that drop into Savages are also available for under $350 and require no fitting by a gunsmith.

 

The cost for a drop in match barrel for a Savage is less than just having a barrel fitted, not including the barrel blank, to a Remington in most cases. Factory Remington take offs rarely headspace correctly so that requires lathe time and that is cost. Most factory take offs cost $100-$150 to have the headspace fixed. Because YOU set the headspace at home it doesn't cost a Savage user a single cent.

 

Setting the headspace on a Savage is simple. And headspace becomes an issue from too loose and not too tight. I use my sized brass as the headspace gauge on my Savages.

 

Imagine having your Savage chambered in 300 WM then 20 minutes later shooting 338 Edge or any of the WSSMs. If you have a 300WM then any other caliber that has a .532"-.535" rim diameter can be swapped installed in a Savage in 20 minutes or less. Or you can grab a .473" bolt head and shoot any one of the dozens of calibers that use that bolt head. You could even use a .378" bolt head and take your 300WM to 223 Winchester in under a 1/2 hour in most cases.

 

It is also cheaper to fully customize a Savage.

 

Triggers are going to be similar in cost . Whether you keep the Accutrigger, which is better than any factory Remington trigger, or you upgrade the costs are similar with a Savage. The best drop in trigger for a Savage is the Sharp Shooter Supply Competition trigger which runs $110 from Brownells. It is a completely different design than the Timney trigger or Rifle Basix or factory trigger. The SSS Competition trigger is a three lever design that results in a very nice trigger that is both reliable and consistent. It is also comparable to any "match" trigger available for any Remington.

 

Bolt handles are easily replaceable and CHEAP for the Savage. A tactical bolt handle, complete and ready to go on the bolt, costs under $40 for a Savage. And it can be swapped in under 5 minutes at home without a smith. Most places charge $100+ to put a different bolt handle on a Remington bolt. It costs $50+ to have the bolt handle threaded for a custom bolt knob on a Remington. So whether you replace the entire bolt handle or have the factory one threaded for an aftermarket knob you are looking at $100+ with a Remington. I have also seen several Remington replacement bolt handles fall off because the weld or solder wasn't good enough. It is impossible for a Savage bolt handle to fall off. So to swap bolt handles is $40 for a Savage vs $100 on a Remington.

 

I would look at the 338 Edge if you are a handloader. It is turning out to be a great long range caliber. With proper handloading it will out perform the 338LM and does it for less.

Here is a video of a 338 Edge +P, as they are calling it, shooting 2,700+ yards.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqCMfTZuWB8

 

And if you want to discuss the advantages of a Savage I am more than happy to give you my telephone number.

 

[Guest Bonedaddy]

Savage might very well sway me from the 700. Been thinkin' on that for a while now. They are definitely hard to beat for their cost but I always "heard" that they were harder to work on. I didn't realize that much else would be so much cheaper. Guess it pays to research a bit, huh? I need to see what they have in the way of wood furniture and iron sighted weapons like the 700 I always liked.

[Dolomite_supafly]

If you can change the oil in your car you can work on a Savage.

 

Swapping bolt heads is easy and very simple. Setting headspace is easy and very simple. There is NOTHING on a Savage that is not user serviceable or user adjustable.

 

I help people out all the time and most times they are surprized at how easy it is. As a matter of fact I talked to a member yesterday and in a 5 minute phone call I explained setting headspace. That member then shot the gun without issue.

[Dolomite_supafly]

Here is a review on a Accuracy Internation stock for a Savage.

http://forum.snipershide.com/s4-sniper%92s-hide%AE-equipment/165049-savage-10-aics-2-0-chassis-review.html

[Guest Bonedaddy]

Seems I remember readin' that the model 10 was the way to go as far as models. True?

[Dolomite_supafly]

Depends on what caliber you want. A model 1X is a short action for 223 and 308 sized calibers. Model 11X is a long action for longer calibers such as 300WM, 30-06 and most of the magnums. They actually make a 338LM as well but it is on its own action but a bunch of people are building the 338 Edge on a 11X.

 

I replaced the number with an "X" because each one has several different models. Like the short action comes in models 10, 11, 12, 14 and 16. ANd the long actions are 110, 111, 112 and 116.

 

The 338LM is a model 110 BA which is larger than a standard long action from what I have gathered but not 100% positive. I would never own such a heavy recoiling caliber because I am recoil sensitive because of a accident.

[Guest Bonedaddy]

It's the 10 or 110 that I was referrin' to. Heard the 11's, 12's, etc. or their corresspondin' 1**s weren't as accurate or some such crap.

[Dolomite_supafly]

They are all going to shoot the same. If a Savage doesn't shoot it has nothing to do with the model number and more to do with the individual rifle.

 

Because I am a Savage guy I have spoke to probably a hundred Savage owners. I can honestly say that I have only heard of 1 or 2 that said their rifles didn't shoot well.

[my82cam]

I have a remington 700 SS SPS in 300WM, great rifle.  accurate out of the box.  I never really understood the need to change barrels and have different calibers out of the same gun.  Why not just buy the gun in the caliber you want, then you can keep your scope sighted in and not always switching and changing things and having to re-sight your rifle?  To each his own.  You can't go wrong with either rifle, both are accurate. 

[Dolomite_supafly]

I have a remington 700 SS SPS in 300WM, great rifle.  accurate out of the box.  I never really understood the need to change barrels and have different calibers out of the same gun.  Why not just buy the gun in the caliber you want, then you can keep your scope sighted in and not always switching and changing things and having to re-sight your rifle?  To each his own.  You can't go wrong with either rifle, both are accurate.

 

The only cost incurred for a Savage owner is the cost of the barrel, no gunsmith fees.

 
A barrel is $125-$200, how much is a new rifle? You don't have to buy another set of bases, rings or another scope. So on average a second Remington that is purchased is probably going to cost $1,000 for everything to shoot the first shot. It costs me $125-$200 and 20 minutes of MY time for me to have a second Savage. It is simple enough that anyone can do it.

 

Same reason some people have seperate uppers for one AR lower. They are so easily replaced there is no sense in buying a lower for each upper.

[R1100R]

I own a couple of 700's and they are great rifles The only phenomenon I know of Savages are there always a lot of them for sale used. Especially before and after hunting season. Try to find a 700 at that time. Also the 700's hold their value better from what I have dealt with

All my AR's have dedicated lowers.

[my82cam]

The only cost incurred for a Savage owner is the cost of the barrel, no gunsmith fees.

 
A barrel is $125-$200, how much is a new rifle? You don't have to buy another set of bases, rings or another scope. So on average a second Remington that is purchased is probably going to cost $1,000 for everything to shoot the first shot. It costs me $125-$200 and 20 minutes of MY time for me to have a second Savage. It is simple enough that anyone can do it.

 

Same reason some people have seperate uppers for one AR lower. They are so easily replaced there is no sense in buying a lower for each upper.

You don't really have 2 rifles, just 1 rifle with 2 caliber options(yes, it will serve 2 different purposes) but, than again, I am the guy who has lowers for each of his ARs because I hate to swap out lowers, who wants just an upper floating around the cabinet, too easy to get scratched.  I also will use any excuse to buy a new rifle or handgun :pleased:

[plinker4life]

+1 On the Savage's..... Dolomite helped me with both of these builds. Top build is a 7.62x39 and the bottom started as a plastic stock .243 and now is .223 rem. He even walked me through headspacing over the phone and he made me confident enough that when I hung up the phone and test fired that I would safe. I know they are not "tacticool" but they are my flavor.

 

[jcoosi]

I picked up a savage 110 in 30-06 to build a 300 win mag from.