Dura Coat vs Cera Coat....others

[chipperi]

I have a beat up 870 Wingmaster and a Remington foldover stock that is in rough shape. I want to blast them both but there are so many after market coatings, I want to hear from people with experiance. For now I am going to put an 18.5" barrel, a magpul forend on it, and hopefully one day SBS it once I get the money, So I want a durable coating that will last a long time. Also if i get a surplus barrel and cut it myself will these coatings stand up to barell tempratures.

[alwaysonjohn]

I have gone with cerakote lately.  The last durakote job that someone did for me ended up being a thick disaster.  Cerakote seems to be harder and thinner and durakote seems to have more flex but it is thicker.  Durakote is cheaper though and on a shotgun both would work well but the thicker durakote might last longer.  Maybe GunRunner32 will chime in since he has cerakoted my last three guns (an ar, precision rifle, and handgun).

[graycrait]

I have had a number of guns Cerakoted by gunrunner32 also.  

 

I have also used flat black engine paint in rattle cans and it works pretty well.  Really cheap to touch up:)  Just make sure you give each coat time to dry and then let it cure well.  

 

I have also used Brownells Gun Kote and it works OK.

[BigK]

I've never had a shottie coated, just Parkerized or blued, but I have 2 Cerakoted pistols a year or 2 ago. I am VERY pleased with both and they've held up well.

One has seen 1000s of rds and shows absolutely NO signs of wear at all.

Edited May 31, 2013 by BigK

[Guest FIST]

Plus 1 for gunrunner32's Cerakote work.

[45guy]

I did a Duracote job myself on a AR and a 12 ga.  Very happy with the out come. The only problem was with the shell carrier, it was to flexable and the paint started flaking off.  All metal and hard rubber has been great. 

[NRA]

Duracote and very happy with it.

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[Dolomite_supafly]

All I use anymore is chalkboard paint. Once cured or, better yet, baked it is extremely durable. It has to be to stand up to chalk. I normally prep my guns, spray them, allow them to dry then bake them. I will put the oven on 350 then turn it off as I put the air cured parts inside the oven. The parts get baked as the oven cools.

MAKE SURE TO DISASSEMBLE THE GUN AND REMOVE ANY PARTS AFFECTED BY HEAT LIKE SPRINGS OR PLASTICS.


You can find it at Walmart for under $6. A can is enough to do several long guns.

Believe it or not but Krylon is very durable once baked on. It is also very easy to touch up if need be. Edited May 31, 2013 by Dolomite_supafly

[Smith]

All I use anymore is chalkboard paint. Once cured or, better yet, baked it is extremely durable. It has to be to stand up to chalk. I normally prep my guns, spray them, allow them to dry then bake them. I will put the oven on 350 then turn it off as I put the air cured parts inside the oven. The parts get baked as the oven cools.


MAKE SURE TO DISASSEMBLE THE GUN AND REMOVE ANY PARTS AFFECTED BY HEAT LIKE SPRINGS OR PLASTICS.



You can find it at Walmart for under $6. A can is enough to do several long guns.


Believe it or not but Krylon is very durable once baked on. It is also very easy to touch up if need be.

Never thought of chalkboard paint. Good idea. I've used BBQ rattle can on plenty of AK's and it works well.

Gunrunner32 does excellent work and takes work through D&T, but he is out of country through June.

[DMark]

Gunrunner32's friend Brandon at Middle Tennessee Gunsmithing in Springfield has done the Ceracote on a couple of my firearms.  I'm very impressed with the durability of the finish. 

 

Here is my Kimber Team Match in 38 Super that has the stainless frame Ceracoted in black.  I shot this 1911 in IDPA so its no safe queen.  After a couple of thousands rounds I cannot find ANY wear on the Ceracote - - - not even on the fine 30lpi front strap checkering.

 

 

BTW - - - Colt now uses Ceracote on its 1911s that are not blued.

[surfcityred]

I am a fan of Dura Coat.  I had a couple of pistols Ceracoated by someone else and I was not thrilled with the results.  I may give Ceracoat a shot myself one of these days but so far, my results with Dura coat have been quite satisfactory.  I recently Dura Coated this Tokarev and the results were good.  However, Dura Coat does take about three weeks to completely cure. 

[TGO David]

I had really good luck using Duracoat on plastics and using Norrel's Moly Resin on metals.  I never got around to trying Cerakote but all of the manufacturers who use it say it's good to go.

[Clod Stomper]

I have used Duracoat quite a bit. It works really well. My only complaint is that it adds thickness so it can't really be used on parts that have to remain the same dimension.

I haven't yet tried Cerakote, but I want to. I understand that it's a bit more "involved" process.

FYI, I think Predator Custom switched from Duracoat to Cerakote a couple years ago.

[Citizen_B]

Is there anywhere in middle TN that carries duracoat or gun-kote for retail sale? Would like to do a small test run but shipping for a small quantity from Lauer or Brownells is outrageous.

[broylz]

Look at midsouth shoooters supply online. Their wharehouse is on i24 exit 11 in clarksville