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Official Mosin Nagant sticky bolt/Other fixes


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Posted

I thought we needed a thread to put videos or other info on how to fix sticky bolt or other issues with the mosin nagant, heres one where the first part of the video is the problem i seem to be having with mine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4R9uuW3nuDM

 

Posted

Interesting....... but remember I think they were made using old tank parts so what else would you expect?

Posted

My 91/30 is a '43 Izhevsk, and it's about as nice a bone-stock Mosin as you can find. The bolt on mine has always operated quite smoothly-- in fact, others that have shot it have commented that they wished theirs operated as well. The only minor gripe I had with mine is that I had to grind/sand the bayonet's mount sleeve to get it to fit-- the number on the bayonet was not the same as the number on the receiver/bolt/buttplate, so I knew it was from a different gun. Not all that uncommon for a bayonet to be mismatched on these refurbs though.

Posted

My 91/30 is a '43 Izhevsk, and it's about as nice a bone-stock Mosin as you can find. The bolt on mine has always operated quite smoothly-- in fact, others that have shot it have commented that they wished theirs operated as well. The only minor gripe I had with mine is that I had to grind/sand the bayonet's mount sleeve to get it to fit-- the number on the bayonet was not the same as the number on the receiver/bolt/buttplate, so I knew it was from a different gun. Not all that uncommon for a bayonet to be mismatched on these refurbs though.


Same here with my bayonet what sandpaper if any did you use on yours to get it to fit? And I also have a '43 izhevsk as well lol
Posted

Same here with my bayonet what sandpaper if any did you use on yours to get it to fit? And I also have a '43 izhevsk as well lol

 

I used a Dremel cylindrical fine-grind/polishing stone first, then followed up with a Dremel standard 240-grit sanding drum to smooth it out. The sanding drum was j-u-s-t small enough to fit inside the mount only after I had used the fine grinding stone first.

Be sure to use safety glasses, as the grinding stone will definitely produce small sparks.

Posted

Mine is having the problem with the bolt in the first part as well. I polished the extractor and it got better. I'm definitely going to chamfer the bolt face next.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Sticky bolt fix:  Shoot, clean, shoot, clean, etc.

 

Or you could just clean the cosmo residue out of the chamber with plenty of Hoppe's and a bore brush.

  • Like 2
Posted

Sticky bolt fix: Shoot, clean, shoot, clean, etc.

Or you could just clean the cosmo residue out of the chamber with plenty of Hoppe's and a bore brush.

a hammer or piece of 2x4 works too!
Posted

Sticky bolt fix:  Shoot, clean, shoot, clean, etc.

 

Or you could just clean the cosmo residue out of the chamber with plenty of Hoppe's and a bore brush.

 

wish I could like this about twenty times.  Cosmoline is the root of a sticky bolt.  Clean your f'in rifle.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest earlybird
Posted

Lots of good information. Will do a few of those to my 53 and newer 91/30 purchase. Still looking for someone to adjust the head space on my Type 53. It is way off. 

Posted (edited)

Lots of good information. Will do a few of those to my 53 and newer 91/30 purchase. Still looking for someone to adjust the head space on my Type 53. It is way off. 

Adjustment is really very easy.  Swap out the bolt.

 

... and while that might seem a poor attempt at sarcasm, it really is the only feasible way to "adjust" headspace on a Mosin.  There is so much tolerance and variance built into the bolt heads on these rifles, as well as equal variations in chambering, that swapping out bolts and/or bolt heads is the way that even the Russian armorers fixed this issue.  I'm assuming of course that yours has failed both the "go" and "field" gauges, if it passes a field gauge it's good to go with surplus, and many claim that even handloads are OK as well.  YMMV, as always.

Edited by No_0ne
Guest earlybird
Posted

Adjustment is really very easy.  Swap out the bolt.

 

... and while that might seem a poor attempt at sarcasm, it really is the only feasible way to "adjust" headspace on a Mosin.  There is so much tolerance and variance built into the bolt heads on these rifles, as well as equal variations in chambering, that swapping out bolts and/or bolt heads is the way that even the Russian armorers fixed this issue.  I'm assuming of course that yours has failed both the "go" and "field" gauges, if it passes a field gauge it's good to go with surplus, and many claim that even handloads are OK as well.  YMMV, as always.

It has failed the field and no-go gauges. I've tried 17 different bolts, lots of my friends have Mosin's :) . It is roughly .020 off. It has been re-barreled, hence the large gap. I am thinking a shim behind the bolt head to push it out a bit. Just don't know how to secure it, or if it will hold up. No one here in Louisville is willing to take it on. And they call themselves a gunsmith, HAH. With this gun, I will put as much money into it as I need to. Lots of sentimental value in it. Bring back from Korea from my grandfather. Everyone in my family has learned to shoot with it. Wanted my nephew to learn on it. He would be the fourth generation of the family to sight it in. Sadly it will probably just end up a wall hanger :(  

Guest earlybird
Posted

Hmmm, looks like I can possible removing the bayonet lug, and the sight aperture... I could then tighten the barrel down until the head space is correct, looks like it was just shimmed anyway, recut the extractor groove a touch, and tack weld the barrel from coming loose. I won't have sights, but I could mount a pistol scope or ugly dot sight to it. Though I do prefer the iron sights, things to ponder. Why can't I turn my brain off.

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