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Removing rust from stainless finish?


Guest bkelm18

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Guest bkelm18

My Sig P220 with the stainless slide has developed a couple rust spots, I've never had any problems with rust on a gun before, so what's the easiest way to get them off? They don't just wipe off. I was thinking a quick once over with a buffing wheel on a Dremel?

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Be careful with the Dremel wheel unless you want a polished/glossy finish. I have had good luck with the pot scrubbers I steal from my wife. She uses the green ones and they will get off any light rust with out scratching. Just start out with light pressure.

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Guest sling

A fine steel wool works wonders on this kind of thing.

Birchwood casey's also makes a blue\rust remover chem. It can be had at wolly world.

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Steel wool may embed in the stainless and cause rust later if you aren't carefull. You might try brass wool or one of the synthetic wools. Neverdull is a cotton wadding for cleaning/polishing metals you can get at a parts store that works good. Something like CLR bathroom cleaner will take rust off. Be carefull because it will also remove blueing.

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Guest goomba

Lead-Away cloth.

any gun shop or even wal mart will have this. if your just now developing some small rust spots... this works great. just rub the spot until it goes away...it works best when the rust is very small and newly formed

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Guest shortfri

0000 steel wool. can find it in the hardware section of walmart or at your local Ace .after you get the rust off, wipe it down with oil or whatever lube you choose. I had the same problem, a five minute fix. also this steel wool won't hurt most blueing. unless your on meth and scrub for hours.

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Guest c.a.s.
stainless does not rust

Yes, it does.

It is corrosion RESISTANT, not corrosion proof.

It mostly makes it take longer to notice any corrosion on it, it does not permanently stay corrosion-free by itself.

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Guest price g
Yes, it does.

It is corrosion RESISTANT, not corrosion proof.

It mostly makes it take longer to notice any corrosion on it, it does not permanently stay corrosion-free by itself.

100% stainless does not rust. period

If it rusts, it is not stainless [20 years marine bussiness]

Easy test, if a magnet sticks to it, its not stainless

Edited by price g
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Guest bkelm18

Well whatever its made of, the stainless/two tone/whatever you wish to call it has rust spots. I'll give the 000 steel wool a whirl. Thanks.

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Can stainless steel rust? Why? (I thought stainless did not rust!)

Answer: Stainless does not "rust" as you think of regular steel rusting with a red oxide on the surface that flakes off. If you see red rust it is probably due to some iron particles that have contaminated the surface of the stainless steel and it is these iron particles that are rusting. Look at the source of the rusting and see if you can remove it from the surface. If the iron is embedded in the surface, you can try a solution of 10% nitric and 2% hydrofluoric acid at room temperature or slightly heated. Wash area well with lots and lots of water after use. Commercially available "pickling paste" can also be used.

From http://www.ssina.com/faq/index.html#3

Stainless Steel Information Center

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"Stainless" steel by definition just has a higher chromium content. There are better and worse stainless steels. Some of the "best" stainless steels may not have the best properties for an object that requires a lot of stress.and steel makers make stainless for a lot of markets.

I know a lot about steel. Worked with properties of industrial steel alloys for a long time. That's one reason I'm not big on Stainless for guns.

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Guest shortfri
"Stainless" steel by definition just has a higher chromium content. There are better and worse stainless steels. Some of the "best" stainless steels may not have the best properties for an object that requires a lot of stress.and steel makers make stainless for a lot of markets.

I know a lot about steel. Worked with properties of industrial steel alloys for a long time. That's one reason I'm not big on Stainless for guns.

not only does he know his pies. he knows his metals. as far as i see it he just gave the best possible answer.

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Guest shortfri
Well whatever its made of, the stainless/two tone/whatever you wish to call it has rust spots. I'll give the 000 steel wool a whirl. Thanks.

please make that a 0000 steel wool not a 000 steel wool. you'll get the same effect,but the 0000 shows less on brushed stainless

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Guest price g

True stainless contains less than 1% iron. That is why stainless is soft and should not be used in load bearing applications.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest MidTNShooter

I recently purchased a slide that I thought was already finished. I ended up get a slight rust to it. I called the manufacturer (Brazos) and was told that their slides come unfinished. I sent my slide (4140 steel) to http://www.apwcogan.com/Greetings.htm and received great work from them. They will removed any blimishes and refinish it if needed. They used a brushed chrome for the sides.

They charge fair prices and I highly encourage you to visit their site and see for yourself.

They turned my slide around in about two weeks.

MTS

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stainless does not rust

Yes...yes it does! There are many, many different types of stainless (as opposed to one, "true" stainless) Any ferrous metal will rust. Some just take longer than others. Heck even aluminum will rust if you prevent it from forming it's protective oxide layer (put a little mercury on structural aluminum and see what happens).

The best thing that I have found to fix SS oxidation is the "scotch-brite" pads that home depot and lowes sell. The green ones are quite abrasive so I suggest using the burgundy or gray pads for a nice satin finish.

Edited by I_Like_Pie
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The great thing about stainless is that you can do what you like with it. File it, grind it, polish it… whatever. It just depends on how much material you need to remove or blend.

Stainless is soft, and many people have a problem in maintaining uniformity of the surface. If you use a small wheel like a dremel and let it dwell in one place to long it will remove more material. You can look down the surface and see it, the more you polish it the more you see it. :D

If you can use a large buffing wheel (like a bench buffer) and make uniform passes it is easier to maintain a smooth uniform surface. If the surface is pitted or you need to remove deep scratches, you can blend it the best you can and then glass bead it. Glass beading hides a lot.

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