H&R Huntsman .45 cal Muzzleloader

[ncldwell]

I have a Harrington and Richardson muzzleloader that I inherited several years ago.  I've never fired a muzzleloader and can't find any type of manual or instructions online.  Is anyone familiar with this rifle and/or can anyone point me in the right direction to find proper instructions on how to load it?

[bajabuc]

"Powder, patch, ball..Powder, patch, ball...Powder, patch, ball"  keep saying that every time you load.  "Powder, patch, ball."  under no circumstances are you to say,  "Patch, ball....oh shit."   the powder goes first...then a patch of some type of cotton cloth...I use pillow ticking.  A ball .005 to .010 smaller than the bore laid on top of the patch. (if you use a .005 smaller ball then your patch should be thinner  if you use a .010 smaller ball your patch should be thicker.  It's the patch that holds the rifling.)  A fairly decent thump on a ball starter should seat the projectile in the bore.  use the short pin to start and the long pin to drive the ball about six inches in the bore.  Trying to use the ramrod to start the ball can result in the rod snapping and the ramrod and your hand heading for the hospital.  Ball six inches deep?  Now use the ramrod to to seat the ball using a reasonably  smooth steady shove.  Seat the ball on the powder.  You can tell by the sound of the rod on the ball if it's seated.  Muzzle downrange...cap...aim...fire.  A BP rifle pushes rather than recoils.

 

Notice how much rod is still out of the muzzle when you have correctly loaded "Powder, patch, ball"...if you forget the powder sometime...and WE ALL have done it...the ram rod will have less rod left sticking out of the muzzle....if this is the case....blush....swear....hunt up the ball puller and thread the puller into the ball.  you don't have to pull the ball all the way out...just enough to give a little room for the powder you are going to put behind the ball when you pull the nipple.  Don't forget to retain the rod...they make a good spear....but you usually get to use the spear once...and they don't shoot straight.

 

Powder, patch, ball

[RED333]

Best quick directions I have seen, :up:

[ncldwell]

"Powder, patch, ball..Powder, patch, ball...Powder, patch, ball"  keep saying that every time you load.  "Powder, patch, ball."  under no circumstances are you to say,  "Patch, ball....oh ####."   the powder goes first...then a patch of some type of cotton cloth...I use pillow ticking.  A ball .005 to .010 smaller than the bore laid on top of the patch. (if you use a .005 smaller ball then your patch should be thinner  if you use a .010 smaller ball your patch should be thicker.  It's the patch that holds the rifling.)  A fairly decent thump on a ball starter should seat the projectile in the bore.  use the short pin to start and the long pin to drive the ball about six inches in the bore.  Trying to use the ramrod to start the ball can result in the rod snapping and the ramrod and your hand heading for the hospital.  Ball six inches deep?  Now use the ramrod to to seat the ball using a reasonably  smooth steady shove.  Seat the ball on the powder.  You can tell by the sound of the rod on the ball if it's seated.  Muzzle downrange...cap...aim...fire.  A BP rifle pushes rather than recoils.

 

Notice how much rod is still out of the muzzle when you have correctly loaded "Powder, patch, ball"...if you forget the powder sometime...and WE ALL have done it...the ram rod will have less rod left sticking out of the muzzle....if this is the case....blush....swear....hunt up the ball puller and thread the puller into the ball.  you don't have to pull the ball all the way out...just enough to give a little room for the powder you are going to put behind the ball when you pull the nipple.  Don't forget to retain the rod...they make a good spear....but you usually get to use the spear once...and they don't shoot straight.

 

Powder, patch, ball

 

Really appreciate the response and guidance Bajabuc!  Is there any rule to how much powder?  I've read on the Web that 100gr is a good average load.  I've also read to start low, i.e. 50gr, and work up in increments (50, 75, 100, etc...).  Sounds reasonable but what are your thoughts on this?

Edited April 18, 2013 by ncldwell

[homeagain]

I hunt with a T/C Hawken in .45 that I've had for about 30 years.  I usually shoot 90g (volume, not weight) of Pyrodex P (rough equiv of FFFg black powder).  I also usualy shoot T/C Maxi Hunter or BreakAway Sabots when hunting. http://www.muzzleloader.com/shooting/shooting6.htm

 

 For target/plinking I use pillow ticking and a .440 ball over 50g P.  Not much is more fun than smokepole shooting.  Maybe smokepole hunting.

[ncldwell]

I hunt with a T/C Hawken in .45 that I've had for about 30 years.  I usually shoot 90g (volume, not weight) of Pyrodex P (rough equiv of FFFg black powder).  I also usualy shoot T/C Maxi Hunter or BreakAway Sabots when hunting. http://www.muzzleloader.com/shooting/shooting6.htm

 

 For target/plinking I use pillow ticking and a .440 ball over 50g P.  Not much is more fun than smokepole shooting.  Maybe smokepole hunting.

 

Appreciate the info Homeagain.  I found a serial number reference that indicates manufacture in 1972.  With that info and after much searching I did find a PDF manual.  I would be happy to share this with other TGO folks if anyone needs it.  I have a PDF of the 1970's model as well as a PDF manual for later Huntsman models of a different design.  After some tinkering I discovered a couple of ways to disassemble the primer cap nipple and breach plug without the H&R tool supplied with the gun.  I would be happy to share those tips as well.  Thanks to you and Bajabuc for the assistance!  I'll update once I've fired it.

[gregintenn]

CLEAN WELL AND OIL right after you fire it, and check it for rusty spots you may have missed a few days later. I've found hot soapy water to be the best and most economical way to clean one.

[bajabuc]

In the only You Tube I found...and it sucked...they were using commercial "plugs" of powder...two per shot....also they used slugs instead of round ball.  with slugs you're using enough force with a metal ram rod to cut the lead and engrave the rifling in the slug.  I noticed the ram rod has a rotating end so the bullet follows the rifling around and doesn't shave the lead off..no patch for slugs.  I use 90 grains of ff (2F) blackpowder.  I shoot fffflinter and sometimes I fffflinch.

[ncldwell]

In the only You Tube I found...and it sucked...they were using commercial "plugs" of powder...two per shot....also they used slugs instead of round ball.  with slugs you're using enough force with a metal ram rod to cut the lead and engrave the rifling in the slug.  I noticed the ram rod has a rotating end so the bullet follows the rifling around and doesn't shave the lead off..no patch for slugs.  I use 90 grains of ff (2F) blackpowder.  I shoot fffflinter and sometimes I fffflinch.

 

The first time I fire this rifle it is highly likely I will ffflinch too...if everything goes as planned it will get much easier after that first successful firing.  I'm used to things only coming out of the barrel, not going into it first...hehehe...

[mike243]

to make it simple pu some of the power belt bullets,no patch needed.start with 45g of powder then start working up,at some point accuracy will fall off,my old rifle was any thing above 80g.i wouldnt load over 100g .the heavier the bullet the less powder you will want to use to keep the pressure down.I killed my first deer with a muzzle loader just like that 1  :)  ,60g & a round ball did the button buck in at 50y back in the late 80's

[Guest TN.Frank]

The second muzzle loader that I ever owned(I was 17 at the time) was an H&R Huntsman in 45cal. It was a very accurate rifle and probably one of the first "inline" style muzzle loaders ever. I used 70grs of FFFg with a patched round ball and a #11 percussion cap.
One reason why they stopped making them for a while was because of the breach design. The "breach plug"(for lack of a better word) was only held in place by an O-Ring when the action was open so if you got a hang fire and opened the gun to put another cap on the nipple and the gun went off the breach plug would shoot out of the barrel toward the shooter. Later design had a screw in breach plug that took a tool to remove which kept the shooter safe in case he opened the gun on a hang fire and it went off.
I really like how easy it was to clean, just pop out the breach plug and clean all the way through the barrel from the breach end. Also, don't forget to extend the ramrod all the way when you ram the ball/bullet home otherwise you'll short stroke it and could risk messing up the gun.
Just read that you have the later model so you'll need some kind of tool to unscrew the breach plug from the barrel. Sometimes you can use needle nose pliers to stick into the little holes and unscrew it if it's not in too tightly or you may have to make up a tool if you can't find one. Edited April 22, 2013 by TN.Frank

[ncldwell]

The second muzzle loader that I ever owned(I was 17 at the time) was an H&R Huntsman in 45cal. It was a very accurate rifle and probably one of the first "inline" style muzzle loaders ever. I used 70grs of FFFg with a patched round ball and a #11 percussion cap.
One reason why they stopped making them for a while was because of the breach design. The "breach plug"(for lack of a better word) was only held in place by an O-Ring when the action was open so if you got a hang fire and opened the gun to put another cap on the nipple and the gun went off the breach plug would shoot out of the barrel toward the shooter. Later design had a screw in breach plug that took a tool to remove which kept the shooter safe in case he opened the gun on a hang fire and it went off.
I really like how easy it was to clean, just pop out the breach plug and clean all the way through the barrel from the breach end. Also, don't forget to extend the ramrod all the way when you ram the ball/bullet home otherwise you'll short stroke it and could risk messing up the gun.
Just read that you have the later model so you'll need some kind of tool to unscrew the breach plug from the barrel. Sometimes you can use needle nose pliers to stick into the little holes and unscrew it if it's not in too tightly or you may have to make up a tool if you can't find one.

 

Appreciate the post.  I've got the screw in breach plug which makes me feel better from a safety perspective.  I read about the problems with the push in o-ring plug.  I was able to get the breach plug out with my Leatherman.  The plier tips fit the two holes perfectly.  I was unsure about the percussion cap size but went ahead and bought some #11's at Bass Pro this weekend.  Thanks for confirming the size.  I think I'm going to really like this rifle.  I've never done any BP hunting and am looking forward to it.

[ncldwell]

to make it simple pu some of the power belt bullets,no patch needed.start with 45g of powder then start working up,at some point accuracy will fall off,my old rifle was any thing above 80g.i wouldnt load over 100g .the heavier the bullet the less powder you will want to use to keep the pressure down.I killed my first deer with a muzzle loader just like that 1   :)  ,60g & a round ball did the button buck in at 50y back in the late 80's

 

Pretty cool to kill your first deer with a muzzleloader.  Thanks for the powder tips.

[Guest Harper2010]

You mentioned that you had the owner's manual for the H&R Huntsman and would be willing to share it.  How do I go about getting a copy?

 

I have an older 45 caliber model that I plan to hunt with this year.  It would be nice to know about the gun.  I believe mine is a screw in plug assembly also but haven't been able to remove it.  I tried needle nose but it didn't budge so hoping the tool is shown in the manual.

Thanks.

[ncldwell]

You mentioned that you had the owner's manual for the H&R Huntsman and would be willing to share it.  How do I go about getting a copy?

 

I have an older 45 caliber model that I plan to hunt with this year.  It would be nice to know about the gun.  I believe mine is a screw in plug assembly also but haven't been able to remove it.  I tried needle nose but it didn't budge so hoping the tool is shown in the manual.

Thanks.

 

I tried to send via PM but there is no attachment option.  Send me your email via PM and I will forward to you.

[cj0e]

I don't know if it's been said... but prime AFTER you've loaded your powder and seated your patch/ball or slug

[bajabuc]

Blackpowder is invasive...especially under pressure...like when you shoot the rifle with a ball in place.  The problem is that the chemical reaction caused by firing creates a residue that sneaks into the threads of the plug and rust welds the breech and barrel together.  To combat this, the original owner should have unscrewed the plug and placed a lubricating coating on the threads of the plug.  My flinter has a removable touch hole liner...at least it's supposed to be removable.  It doesn't because I forgot to grease it.  I'm going to have to drill it out and buy a new liner.  I'll probably buy a platinum one...they don't stick.  I imagine a platinum breach plug for a huntsman would cost more than three rifles.