I Need some HELP from CAR guys.

[Dolomite_supafly]

It will have an 8.8 rear so I would go with a steeper gear. It will make a huge difference in feel and should not affect gas mileage too much.

[LenoirGunner]

I already have a 6.0 excursion. But I just want my expedition to be more useful as it is my primary vehicle. The engine has 109,000 miles on it. And with the blower I was planning on cutting out the cats new headers and high flow muffler. Tuners will come on it once I get a blower. I am just having trouble finding a kit to fit this motor since most are for the 5.4. Getting another vehicle is not an option right now. I just want to have something in the form of a sleeper. Faster than it should be but still very practical for everyday every day driving. Thanks for all the replies so far. They are all been a huge help.

[LenoirGunner]

Your probably right on the cost. And I also look at it as DIY also. So back to the fact he could find a diesel excursion for the same $$ he will spend modding plus the value of the expedition. That's the way I would go but watch out for those 6.0 motors..

I already have an Excursion with the 6.0. Does great. But with the cost of diesel flying through the roof. I am wanting this to be a vehicle that I can use in place of that.

[LenoirGunner]

Another vote for Sam. The first thing I thought of when I read your post was transmission. They are expensive to rebuild or replace, as you most likely already know, and the last thing you want to do is add so much power your kill your stock one. My advice would be to talk to a shop that does this kind of thing for a living and let them guide you. 

This vehicle has sentimental value. I will be keeping it till I die. It is in phenomenal shape and is still a very good reliable vehicle. I would not be able to get enough out of it right now for it to be worth selling. I don't care to drop more into it than it is worth. Cars are always like that. I just don't need 6-10k in engine upgrades. I want to do enough that it is reliable, but not blow the budget.

[Sam1]

This vehicle has sentimental value. I will be keeping it till I die. It is in phenomenal shape and is still a very good reliable vehicle. I would not be able to get enough out of it right now for it to be worth selling. I don't care to drop more into it than it is worth. Cars are always like that. I just don't need 6-10k in engine upgrades. I want to do enough that it is reliable, but not blow the budget.

 

 

You're not going to add 100hp to a 13 year old drivetrain reliably without spending that $6k-10k.  

 

There's a lot of things that go into this, just one of the many: cast pistons melt, crack and break randomly under boost, one reason is because of the enormous amount of heat caused by boosting an engine.  If you stay around the magic 8# level (which is a complete farce of being a standard safe level for an n/a motor), you're looking at adding about 75% atmospheric pressure into the cylinder before the explosion even happens. The compression levels on that engine look to be a 9:1 which isn't too bad to boost, but it's a 2 valve which is going to cause you issues unless you do a port job and get a blower cam. On top of that, now you've got to concern yourself with breaking a ring landing (which happens all the time on cast pistons) then possibly blowing out seals and contaminating the oil if you do not have a really good vent system.

 

That's just a small iota of the things to be considered, there are entire series of books written about the things that need to be done, and most of them start with a fresh build of the motor if the car is not fairly new.

 

I did look up that model though and it looks like they had an optional motor upgrade to a 5.4 which was an extra 40hp & 55tq. Bolt ons or a swap like that is all that will be reasonable, I couldn't tell you the number of people that have wanted to start some big project like that and a year + few thousand into it they just gave up.  Have to consider the fact that if it was that easy and cheap, everyone you know would have one on their vehicle.

Edited April 16, 2013 by Sam1

[dlm37015]

the mods on a 6.0 are easy to do this just pm jccosi

[JPR1959]

I had a 2001 Expedition with a 4.6L engine, and it was a snail.  I think you're going to have a hard time getting a lot of additional horsepower/torque out of that engine.  If you could possibly put the injectors, cams, and computer out of a 2011 Mustang GT, it might help.  Those engines had about 265 hp.  Having a vehicle with only 235 hp and weighing around 5700 pounds, it's a tough job to make it go faster.  I just hope you never have the airbags go off on the truck.  If they do, it's gonna be totaled.  That's what happened to mine thanks to my son.

[Monkeyman2500]

I agree with everyone, it's just not a engine even remotely ready for forced induction. I've had a lot of experience with this too. If you can't part with the truck, and I compleatly understand that, I would look into an engine-trans swap. I have zero experience with that particular truck but I would research a swap to a mustang engine-trans setup. I bet that's been done. That would be pretty cool too. Might be able to do it under 8k. If you do anything make sure to do it right though. Just slapping a turbo or supercharger on will be the wrong idea. Good luck, I would never part with my truck either.

[Murgatroy]

I had a 2001 Expedition with a 4.6L engine, and it was a snail.  I think you're going to have a hard time getting a lot of additional horsepower/torque out of that engine.  If you could possibly put the injectors, cams, and computer out of a 2011 Mustang GT, it might help.  Those engines had about 265 hp.  Having a vehicle with only 235 hp and weighing around 5700 pounds, it's a tough job to make it go faster.  I just hope you never have the airbags go off on the truck.  If they do, it's gonna be totaled.  That's what happened to mine thanks to my son.

While the 5.0 Coyote (2011+ Mustang) is still a modular engine, none of those parts are compatible with the older modular engines. It also makes 400+ horses.

 

Even the V6 used since 2011 (3.7 Duratech) makes 300+ HP.

 

However, you are spot on, it doesn't matter how much power he makes, the OP is still having to move a 5700lb vehicle. 

[LenoirGunner]

I agree with everyone, it's just not a engine even remotely ready for forced induction. I've had a lot of experience with this too. If you can't part with the truck, and I compleatly understand that, I would look into an engine-trans swap. I have zero experience with that particular truck but I would research a swap to a mustang engine-trans setup. I bet that's been done. That would be pretty cool too. Might be able to do it under 8k. If you do anything make sure to do it right though. Just slapping a turbo or supercharger on will be the wrong idea. Good luck, I would never part with my truck either.

 

 

I had a 2001 Expedition with a 4.6L engine, and it was a snail.  I think you're going to have a hard time getting a lot of additional horsepower/torque out of that engine.  If you could possibly put the injectors, cams, and computer out of a 2011 Mustang GT, it might help.  Those engines had about 265 hp.  Having a vehicle with only 235 hp and weighing around 5700 pounds, it's a tough job to make it go faster.  I just hope you never have the airbags go off on the truck.  If they do, it's gonna be totaled.  That's what happened to mine thanks to my son.

 

 

You're not going to add 100hp to a 13 year old drivetrain reliably without spending that $6k-10k.  

 

There's a lot of things that go into this, just one of the many: cast pistons melt, crack and break randomly under boost, one reason is because of the enormous amount of heat caused by boosting an engine.  If you stay around the magic 8# level (which is a complete farce of being a standard safe level for an n/a motor), you're looking at adding about 75% atmospheric pressure into the cylinder before the explosion even happens. The compression levels on that engine look to be a 9:1 which isn't too bad to boost, but it's a 2 valve which is going to cause you issues unless you do a port job and get a blower cam. On top of that, now you've got to concern yourself with breaking a ring landing (which happens all the time on cast pistons) then possibly blowing out seals and contaminating the oil if you do not have a really good vent system.

 

That's just a small iota of the things to be considered, there are entire series of books written about the things that need to be done, and most of them start with a fresh build of the motor if the car is not fairly new.

 

I did look up that model though and it looks like they had an optional motor upgrade to a 5.4 which was an extra 40hp & 55tq. Bolt ons or a swap like that is all that will be reasonable, I couldn't tell you the number of people that have wanted to start some big project like that and a year + few thousand into it they just gave up.  Have to consider the fact that if it was that easy and cheap, everyone you know would have one on their vehicle.

Ok first off. I can not use a mustang engine and tranny since I am not going for 150mph out of this. I want to put my foot down and it haul it up a hill. Or pull a trailer better. This is at interstate speeds. Mustang tranny could not handle it.

Next I disabled the air bags a long time ago due to that very thing. It destroys the interior and bends the roof pillars.

And I am think maybe a better way to go now is cam, and engine timing.

I have one blown truck already and it was all basically bolt on. Never thought it would require this much change for this vehicle. I bolted one onto a 460ci ford big block. No issues there. But I don't keep my foot in it either.

Thanks again for all the help and keep the suggestions coming. Not really looking to do a motor swap cause this one is lower mile than 99% out there.

I want stuff to do to this motor and make it more powerful reliably and not busting the bank account.

[Murgatroy]

.

Edited April 17, 2013 by Murgatroy

[Guest PapaB]

As some have said, you want to increase torque more than hp. A performance chip is going to be one of the best cost effective solutions.

[austin7.62]

Ok first off. I can not use a mustang engine and tranny since I am not going for 150mph out of this. I want to put my foot down and it haul it up a hill. Or pull a trailer better. This is at interstate speeds. Mustang tranny could not handle it.
Next I disabled the air bags a long time ago due to that very thing. It destroys the interior and bends the roof pillars.
And I am think maybe a better way to go now is cam, and engine timing.
I have one blown truck already and it was all basically bolt on. Never thought it would require this much change for this vehicle. I bolted one onto a 460ci ford big block. No issues there. But I don't keep my foot in it either.
Thanks again for all the help and keep the suggestions coming. Not really looking to do a motor swap cause this one is lower mile than 99% out there.
I want stuff to do to this motor and make it more powerful reliably and not busting the bank account.

The mustang gt from like 95 or 96 on to 04 has the same or similar tranny as your expedition. It's either the 4R70W or the 4R100. Both good trannys.
Anyways, I suggest you find out what gear ratio you're running. There should be a little tag on the pumpkin with a code. You can look it up online. My grandpa has a 02 F150 4.6 2WD base model with the 3.08 gears. It's awful. You might have the same ratio. I'd throw some 3.73 or 4:10s in there. I have a 63 Chevy C10 with a 250 I6 with 4 speed granny gear and 4.11s. It pulls hard all the time, and if that weak old worn out inline 6 can do it, you're modular 4.6 can really wake up with some gears and a tune.

[austin7.62]

And I'd start by getting rid of as many of those 4 cats as possible lol.

[Chadastrophic]

Turbos make torque and torque makes fun.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

[Dolomite_supafly]

Another option that might be cheaper is do a complete rear end swap. The gears aren't that expensive but the labor to set them  but you can go to a Pull a Part and pick up a complete rear end for under $100. And in a afternoon you can have a completely differen't rear end installed. Some of the explorers came with 3.55's and 3.73's and from what I have seen looking at tags most of those with the stepper rear gears were also posi. You could also upgrade to disks if you don't already have them. It would require a new proportioning valve but that is cheap.

 

A swap from 3.55 to 3.73 is very dramatic in the seat of the pants. A swap from 3.08 to 3.55 or 3.73 is going to be amazing. I have went from 3.08 to 3.55 and I never thought the felt difference would be so dramatic. The car would barely haze the tires from the line and after they would break loose all through first when I mashed the pedal.

 

That way you don't ruin the engines reliability. You won't ruin your economy either. The engine RPM at 55 will be the same as it is at 63 MPH now.

[LenoirGunner]

The mustang gt from like 95 or 96 on to 04 has the same or similar tranny as your expedition. It's either the 4R70W or the 4R100. Both good trannys.
Anyways, I suggest you find out what gear ratio you're running. There should be a little tag on the pumpkin with a code. You can look it up online. My grandpa has a 02 F150 4.6 2WD base model with the 3.08 gears. It's awful. You might have the same ratio. I'd throw some 3.73 or 4:10s in there. I have a 63 Chevy C10 with a 250 I6 with 4 speed granny gear and 4.11s. It pulls hard all the time, and if that weak old worn out inline 6 can do it, you're modular 4.6 can really wake up with some gears and a tune.

3.32 reAR

[Volphin]

2000 Ford Exp, 4.6L 2WD = ProCharger 1FH211-SCI.  Can be had for $4606 (List price is $5396... LOL) includes shipping, and includes a new FMU.

 

If you have the $$, sounds fun.

[Murgatroy]

Another option that might be cheaper is do a complete rear end swap. The gears aren't that expensive but the labor to set them  but you can go to a Pull a Part and pick up a complete rear end for under $100. And in a afternoon you can have a completely differen't rear end installed. Some of the explorers came with 3.55's and 3.73's and from what I have seen looking at tags most of those with the stepper rear gears were also posi. You could also upgrade to disks if you don't already have them. It would require a new proportioning valve but that is cheap.

 

A swap from 3.55 to 3.73 is very dramatic in the seat of the pants. A swap from 3.08 to 3.55 or 3.73 is going to be amazing. I have went from 3.08 to 3.55 and I never thought the felt difference would be so dramatic. The car would barely haze the tires from the line and after they would break loose all through first when I mashed the pedal.

 

That way you don't ruin the engines reliability. You won't ruin your economy either. The engine RPM at 55 will be the same as it is at 63 MPH now.

The wife's Explorer is 3.73 with posi.

 

Makes that like 235HP 4.0L SOHC feel like a monster.