9 mm Reloading question

[sgtyork]

I purchased a pound of Accurate #7 last week and in trying to find bullets, I ran into a little confusion.

 

I can not find load data for 9 mm FMJ 115 or 124 gr bullets with Acc #7

 

Is this the wrong power for 9 mm or just me not understanding? I was lucky to get it as the dealer had almost no selection.

 

Thanks

Edited March 29, 2013 by sgtyork

[Raoul]

Dude, use Google. I just found several tables for that powder and bullet weight. And buy a good reloading manual or 2.

[sgtyork]

Thanks. I have Reloader's Guide by Alliant Power and Modern Reloading Guide 2nd edition and a couple of older reload manuals.. Tried Google, guess I did not type in the right question.

 

But thanks for the reply

 

Dude, use Google. I just found several tables for that powder and bullet weight. And buy a good reloading manual or 2.

Edited March 29, 2013 by sgtyork

[Raoul]

Start here:
http://www.accuratepowder.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/accurate_load_data_3.5.pdf

[sgtyork]

Thanks again. They only have one load:

 

No 7 115 SIE FMJ 6.7 1,049 7.8 1,171 34,821 1.100

 

I saw that on earlier before I asked. but I can not find any Sierra 115 FMJ and was hoping to find a few more choices in brand bullets.

 

Back to the drawing board.

 

Start here:
http://www.accuratepowder.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/accurate_load_data_3.5.pdf

[Raoul]

Don't be so hung up on brands. Look for similar bullets and start your load on the low side. Then you can tweak it to your liking.

[sgtyork]

Then a 9mm FMJ 115 gr is pretty much the same, no matter the brand?

 

Thanks, that helps alot.

 

Don't be so hung up on brands. Look for similar bullets and start your load on the low side. Then you can tweak it to your liking.

[Raoul]

You'll be fine. Just remember to start at the lower end of charge weight and test them for accuracy and function. Once you get it dialed in to your liking then have your load for that powder and bullet weight/type.

It's a lot of fun to get your load worked out.

[RED333]

You'll be fine. Just remember to start at the lower end of charge weight and test them for accuracy and function. Once you get it dialed in to your liking then have your load for that powder and bullet weight/type.

It's a lot of fun to get your load worked out.

Best reason to go shoot!!

[BigK]

Then a 9mm FMJ 115 gr is pretty much the same, no matter the brand?

When you look up "official" load data, keep in mind the amount of trouble it takes to collect the stats, especially for the powder mfg. They try to use a gun that will simulate what their customers' experience will be and fuss over dozens of combos of length and charge weight before they publish a recommendation for each bullet type. They only publish the bullet brand for purposes of full disclosure.

If 1.100 will cycle in your gun, go with their starting weight of 6.7 gr. Make 10 rounds with that charge, add 0.10 gr and make 10 more, and so on until you have 5 or 6 test batches. Shoot the first 5 of each load offhand to ensure they will cycle the action and eject properly. Then, use a shooting rest for the other 5 rounds to measure group sizes. Assuming they all cycle, choose the batch with the smallest group size, unless it's the last batch with the heaviest charge. If it is, you may wanna try a couple more weights up to the max load, but be careful.

If you shoot 9mm in multiple guns it's not always that easy. Accuracy and reliable cycling can vary from gun to gun. Some guns are finicky and some guns shoot differently due to barrel length or some other factor. It's not uncommon to have to reload different loads for different guns.

What kind of gun are you reloading for? It actually matters, if you want the best loads possible. If you just want an overall plinker, don't worry about it.

[sgtyork]

Thanks BigK for the advice. I did not think of doing it that way, but what you suggest make good sense.

 

I have a Glock 26 and trying to start with it. After I get comfortable with it then I'll get dies for my 1911 45. I used to reload in the 70's and thought it would just come back to me, but it's like I've never done it. So starting out as a new  guy.

 

Thanks again!!

[BigK]

I bet once you get going, it'll all come back to you. Good luck.

Keep in mind that Glock barrels don't fully support the cartridge, so you'll get bulges near the extractor groove that weaken the cases. You'll get fewer reloads out of each piece of brass than you remember. As this bulge is mostly straightened back out and reused the case gets longer and the brass gets thinner and more prone to a kaboom.

[sgtyork]

Thanks BigK, did not know that about Glock barrels.

 

I have once fired brass so I guess that will work. Call a dealer in the next town up and asked if he had any 115 or 124 gr 9mm bullets and he said just got some in. Got all excited and drove over and he thought I was talking about 115 gr 9mm retail ammo. I've a Lee press I got new 2 months ago and it's still in the box. Not going to open it up untill I can get everything I need. While I was there I did go ahead and get 250 rounds of 9mm and 50 rounds of 45 acp. Not what I wanted but not a wasted trip.

[seez52]

I was thinking about getting a taper crimp die for 9mm. I've loaded a bunch without but have about 2k to do I plan for long term storage so I'm not sure what they will be shot in. Is everybody else using one?

[BigK]

I was thinking about getting a taper crimp die for 9mm. I've loaded a bunch without but have about 2k to do I plan for long term storage so I'm not sure what they will be shot in. Is everybody else using one?

They aren't "really" necessary, but I always use one. I like that it frees up my seating die to only seat the bullets instead of crimping as the bullet seats. I also like the longer crimp it applies. Edited March 29, 2013 by BigK

[Guest K7Sparky]

The Lee Bulge Buster is a great idea / addition and saved me a bunch of brass.

 

I too use a taper crimp most of the time on 9, 45, 380, 32

 

Been experimenting with the Lee factory crimps and I can feel an addiction coming on.

 

Glocks like all the lighter frames are NOT happy with limp wristing it, your shorty is no exception.

 

Glocks say no lead in their barrels, jackets only.  I've talked to the Glock reps at NRA AMs about it, they just smile but not budge  After market barrels with different rifling say lead OK.  Oh Yea,  they also say NO RELOADS

 

I've shot milk jugs of 115 RN and 147 TC lead through my original 17 with no problems other than cleaning the lead out.   I like AA #2, #5 & #7 in the 9MM depending on the pill.

 

AA Guide #1 1994 and yes, they were still McEwen back then:

HDY 115 FMJ

AA #7 7.9 to 8.8  it's a tad slow for 115g

AA#5 will get you same FPS with a little less 6.3 to 7.0

AA#2 will cost you about 100 FPS but save almost half the powder 4.0 to 4.4 with 115g jackets and about 3,000 CUP under redline same pressure as #7 for max load

By the time you get to 147g jacket pills #7 will buy you about 50 fps, but costs almost 2 grains to do it.

[Guest 6.8 AR]

Get the load data on a given weight and start a little lower. Brands don't have anything to do with it, except

for the type of bullet. Acc #5 is what I use on all my 9mm's and .45's. #7 is fine, though, if that is what you have.

[Guest TN.Frank]

I'm pretty sure the unsupported chamber deal with Glock was only on the Gen 1 and Gen 2 in 40cal. The 9x19mm has plenty of support and can take +P+ 9x19mm on a limited basis.
As far as AA#7, it was made for the 9x19mm. If your powder measure will meter it out without spilling those little grains all over the place then by all means use it and you'll get good results with it. I was running 7.9grs(Hornady 8th Edition max load) with a Hornady 124gr XTP and getting an average of 1180fps and it was very accurate too. I switched back to Unique because my Lee Perfect Powder measure was putting more of that little AA#7 on the floor from leaking then into the case,LOL. Don't have that problem with the bigger grains of Unique.
Good luck on your reloading and be safe.