Noob lube question

[subsonic]

Started my first batch of .357 today, Lee Breech Lock press and dies, virgin nickel brass cases, 125 gr XTP and HS6. When I got to seating the bullets, first one went a little deep, second one was just about perfect, third and fourth had buckled cases. The Lee reloading manual doesn't mention a whole lot about the nuances of case lube....should I be applying to the inside neck of the brass? FWIW, the second attempt even had a very respectable crimp, can't figure out why the next two were such failures. Thanks for insights.

[Guest Cami]

Are you using carbide dies? Because if you are then lubing pistol brass isn't necessary.  If you were lubing them and applying them inside the neck then your  bullets would be slipping around like you describe.  You only lube rifle brass and then only on the outside.  Lube and powder don't mix. :2cents:

Edited March 25, 2013 by Cami

[MarkInNashville]

Usually it is the bullet that is lubed, not inside the brass. How much bell are you putting on the case mouth and how deep is it? Before I started I visited a friend who showed me a few things. I will extend the same offer to you, if you'd care to.

[RED333]

Usually it is the bullet that is lubed, not inside the brass. How much bell are you putting on the case mouth and how deep is it? Before I started I visited a friend who showed me a few things. I will extend the same offer to you, if you'd care to.

This is very important step.

[ttocswob]

Case lube is for initial sizing of cases, and should be removed before seating bullets. For straight wall pistol, new nickel cases shouldn't need lube at all.

New cases should be sized to be sure they're in spec.

[Dolomite_supafly]

It sounds like he has the seater die screwed in so far that it is applying a serious crimp to the case mouth. Then he tried to seat the bullets deeper after he already had a crimp.

 

You need to do a full length size. Even new brass needs to be sized. Pull the handle down to the bottom of its stroke. Screw the sizing die in until it contacts the shell holder then add about a 1/2 turn. You want to make sure the sizing die ALWAYS touches the shell holder.

 

Next you need to use the powder drop die to bell the case mouth. You want just enough bell that the bullet clears the case mouth. Most times you can't see or even feel the bell but when you set a bulet in the case mouth it is obvious. To set it you put the handle at the bottom of the stroke then you screw it in until the handle moves. Remove the shell and check the bullet fit. It is doesn't then add a 1/4 turn, lock it down and pull the handle to the hard stop with the case in the shell holder. Check it again and add a 1/4 turn at a time until the bullet just barely clears the case mouth. Too much bell work hardens the case mouth and will cause cracks pretty quickly.

 

To set your seater die up do this. Loosen the die and loosen the seater pin. Put a piece of factory ammo in the shell holder. Put the handle of the press at the bottom of the stroke, I mean bottomed out on the hard stop. Then screw the die in until you see the handle barely move. Lock the die in place. Then tighten the seater die until it hard stops on the bullet. This will get you near perfect bullets. You might have to add a 1/8 turn to get more of a crimp but not much more than that.

Edited March 25, 2013 by Dolomite_supafly

[subsonic]

Thanks for all the replies. I have not applied any lube inside the case necks, and I set the sizing die up according to the instructions that came with it (as Dolomite describes). I'm using the Lee wax based lube. Appreciate the tip about removing lube before seating the bullets and also lubing the bullet, Bullets are seating about 1/8" at most into cases by hand. When I place a round in the press to seat, I'm experiencing substantial resistance about halfway through the stroke, then it's like I bust through a wall. If I check the  round for depth of seat at this point, it isn't necessarily seated to correct depth yet. I appreciate that setting the seating die is a bit of trial and error. I thought I had it dialed in based on the second attempt as it had the perfect depth of seat and crimp looked identical to a factory round. Then the next two buckled.

 

Mark, appreciate the offer, I'll PM you contact info.

[MarkInNashville]

It sounds like he has the seater die screwed in so far that it is applying a serious crimp to the case mouth. Then he tried to seat the bullets deeper after he already had a crimp.

 

You need to do a full length size. Even new brass needs to be sized. Pull the handle down to the bottom of its stroke. Screw the sizing die in until it contacts the shell holder then add about a 1/2 turn. You want to make sure the sizing die ALWAYS touches the shell holder.

 

Next you need to use the powder drop die to bell the case mouth. You want just enough bell that the bullet clears the case mouth. Most times you can't see or even feel the bell but when you set a bulet in the case mouth it is obvious. To set it you put the handle at the bottom of the stroke then you screw it in until the handle moves. Remove the shell and check the bullet fit. It is doesn't then add a 1/4 turn, lock it down and pull the handle to the hard stop with the case in the shell holder. Check it again and add a 1/4 turn at a time until the bullet just barely clears the case mouth. Too much bell work hardens the case mouth and will cause cracks pretty quickly.

 

To set your seater die up do this. Loosen the die and loosen the seater pin. Put a piece of factory ammo in the shell holder. Put the handle of the press at the bottom of the stroke, I mean bottomed out on the hard stop. Then screw the die in until you see the handle barely move. Lock the die in place. Then tighten the seater die until it hard stops on the bullet. This will get you near perfect bullets. You might have to add a 1/8 turn to get more of a crimp but not much more than that.

Excellent instructions!

[MarkInNashville]

It's no problem, just hope I can help him.