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Mosin M91/30 ejecting


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I wasn't sure if this should go in the Curios and Relics or down here in Troubleshooting.  If it's in the wrong place, I'm sorry.

 

I recently bought some surplus 7.62x54r at a gun show that came (to my surprise) preloaded on stripper clips.  Up until this point, I'd always just been loading it one at a time, so I'd never really noticed any ejection issues.  Now that I'm loading 5 at a time, though, I'm noticing that it doesn't like to eject.  I'll shoot, pull the bolt back as you'd expect, and the bolt hangs on to the brass and does not feed the next round. 

 

When this happens, I can work the bolt back and forth a few times and eventually it will eject and the next round will load just fine - but I figured I'd post this curiosity here to see if it's something you fine folks might have seen before or if I'm better off selling the stripper clips and going back to loading one at a time?

 

- Viracnis

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I did try filling it up sans the clip, being sure that each new round was in front of the one below it.  I still had the same problem.

 

What I found really strange is that I cannot replicate the issue sitting in my living room cycling the gun.  It's only when I actually fire it that it does it.  Seems to do it once or twice out of every 5 rounds loaded.

 

When it happens, the next round down doesn't even try to pop up to be chambered.  When the round stuck to the bolt does finally eject, though, it cycles fine.  

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Get mad at the bolt, jerk it back hard.  Mosins tend to be happiest with a heavy hand.  If that doesn't work, could be how you're loading the clips.  Apparently there's a right and wrong way to do it (I didn't know that until a minute ago). 

 

Stripper.jpg

 

 

If that still doesn't work, do a little googling on rimlock and the interrupter.

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There is much debate about the specific manner for loading mosin stripper clips. And yes, Mosins sometimes need "tough love."

 

I prefer the alternating rim method-- first rim down, next rim up, next rim down, etc. like this:  __---__---__

 

It's always worked for me, but many times people will blame the charging method, when in reality they probably have a faulty interrupter.

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Get mad at the bolt, jerk it back hard.  Mosins tend to be happiest with a heavy hand.  If that doesn't work, could be how you're loading the clips.  Apparently there's a right and wrong way to do it (I didn't know that until a minute ago). 

 

Stripper.jpg

 

 

If that still doesn't work, do a little googling on rimlock and the interrupter.

 

 

Get mad at the bolt, jerk it back hard.  Mosins tend to be happiest with a heavy hand.  If that doesn't work, could be how you're loading the clips.  Apparently there's a right and wrong way to do it (I didn't know that until a minute ago). 

 

Stripper.jpg

 

 

If that still doesn't work, do a little googling on rimlock and the interrupter.

I have honestly never seen this. Interesting to say the least.

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Perhaps the cheese powder from the Cheetos is sticking your fingers to the keys, resulting in "double taps"? :shrug:

 

Hey, it could happen to anyone.

 

 

Perhaps the cheese powder from the Cheetos is sticking your fingers to the keys, resulting in "double taps"? :shrug:

 

Hey, it could happen to anyone.

Guess so. It just happens randomly too. For a while it went away and then it just came back. Probably my computer being stupid.

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After a few beers and a half hour with a screwdriver last night, I've determined the problem is with the part the diagram I have calls the "interrupting ejector".  Mine is significantly more worn than most others that I've seen in pictures on google image search.  It is the only part of the gun that shows any sign of wear, including the bore.  Strange.

 

Now I need to decide if it is worth the $13 + shipping to buy a new one, or just load them one at a time.

Edited by Viracnis
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Yeah, I noticed when I got deeper into the ordering process that mine is one piece, not two like they were selling for $13.  I was all set to order the $23 one-piece replacement when I decided to get creative instead.

 

Figuring I was replacing it anyway, I used a tiny detail file to re-profile the extractor using the pictures I found on the web as a guide.  I didn't remove much material, just enough to make the little lip that the shell catches on a bit more pronounced and make the notch that the extractor pivots on a bit deeper, so it would ride deeper in its notch and stick out more on the bolt-side.  I'll bet I did not make more than 5-6 passes of the little file, just enough to give me about 1/32 of an inch more exposure on the "inside".

 

Seems to have worked wonders.  I haven't gotten to shoot it yet, but loading it up in the back yard and cycling it without firing it seems to be a big improvement.  It is actually ejecting pretty aggressively now - before the spent shells would just barely fall out when I worked the bolt, now they're firing off with a purpose.  

 

Anything I should look out for here?  Aside from knocking my shootin' buddy unconscious with a spent shell?  Gun smith I am not (no matter what I might tell you after a few beers) - so I smeared some grease on the bolt after I made the change to check for any rubbing or contact between the extractor and the bolt that might cause excess wear, but it doesn't seem to have caused any problems.  Anything else I should check - or any better way to inspect my handiwork for potential problems?  I'd hate for this guy to survive since 1936 in the hands of some Russian farmer/soldier only to blow up at Charlie Haffner's range in the hands of a billhilly with a nail file.

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