I'm about ready for a new Powder Measure

[bikertrash2001]

Hey guys, 

 

I've been using my Lee Anniversary kit for a while and for the amount I do, it has worked pretty good. The only thin thing that is getting on my nerves it the powder measure. I'm just using Accurate #5 and with the low end measure that comes with the kit, it gets a little irritating  If you loosen the tension screw too much. powder trickles out the side. Too much tension, it's too hard to turn. Powder also tends to get caught up in the cones and makes it gritty. I don't know if I can justify a competition priced measure but was wonder if anybody likes the measures in the $70-90 range.

 

Or should I just save my pennies until I can get a progressive press? 

[Westwindmike]

I've had an RCBS powder measure for years. It is all metal and very well made. You can get it with both small and large drums. Very durable and no leaks. Highly recommend if you want a manual measure.

[221 Fireball]

I've got a Redding BR powder measure. Very accurate with both flake and ball powder and I've been using it for about 20 years now without a problem.

[mikegideon]

I have a couple of Lee AutoDisk Pros for charging through a die on the turret press. They're real good. I also have an RCBS uniflow like Westwind's. I don't use it, but it's a great measure if you want to charge your cases in a seperate step. Buy it with confidence. I use an RCBS ChargeMaster when I'm loading single stage, but it's way over your budget. It's also kinda slow.

[spammy_h]

I have experience with the Lyman 55 and the Hornady. Both were consistent and predictable. Never had to reset either one after dialing in a powder weight charge. I believe that the RCBS Uniflow is nearly identical to the Hornady.

 

Having said that, using either the micrometer or metering inserts in the Hornady makes caliber changes almost instantaneous. I still weigh the first few charges, but I've never had to adjust after swapping metering inserts.

 

I don't think you can go wrong with Lyman, Hornady, RCBS, or Redding.

[Jonnin]

I also like the lee auto disk.  Its sloppy, so if you want match grade ammo, this isnt for you.  It works for 380 to 223.  Anything bigger than 223 you need the double disk adapter.  It is not difficult to make your own "disk" from a piece of wood if you need smaller than 380.   The powder to disk conversion chart that comes with it is useless, just weigh a charge of a disk and from there it is linear so you can compute the disk you need for that powder after only one try.   It may also leak a little bit, but I have not found it to be enough to worry about --- if you seek 100% leak free, this may also not be for you; I estimate about 1 grain leaked for every 1000 used on mine, very roughly.   It prefers ball/small powders to get the most consistent charges.  It is very easy to use, just run the press handle and it drops the charge.

[mikegideon]

Just note that there are two AutoDisk models. The Pro is great. The cheaper one... not so great.

[Jonnin]

Just note that there are two AutoDisk models. The Pro is great. The cheaper one... not so great.

 

Good point.   I do have the pro.

[bikertrash2001]

Get you a first grade pencil or the lightest lead pencil you can find. 0, 00 and 000 pencils can be found at hobby and art supply stores. I use the 000 pencil. Take the drum apart and mark both sides of the drum almost solid. Blow off the extra flakes. This is in the instructions that came with the kit. I have to do it to mine about every 2,000 rounds, but it's old. I have an old steel Redding that has to be reworked the same way.

 

At first I was thinking what in the world are yo talking about but then AH-HA! Using the graphite as a lube for the drum. That makes great sense since there are little grooves that are worn in the cones that would rub the "lead" off the pencils. Pretty slick! (no pun intended)

 

Thanks for all the other ideas too guys!

[mikegideon]

I use graphite in a spray can. It eliminates static electricity on plastic parts (so powder doesn't stick), and won't contaminate the powder.

[Jonnin]

I use graphite in a spray can. It eliminates static electricity on plastic parts (so powder doesn't stick), and won't contaminate the powder.

 

I thought many powders have graphite in them already for this purpose?
 

[Kevincrossville]

They have the small tubes of graphite at lowes in the lock section for a few bucks and it goes along way. I recently purchased a RCBS quick change powder measure which I think it basically the same as the uniflow with the quick change parts added. I installed a hornady case activated linkage kit on it and could not be happier. Much more consistan than my lee pro powder measure that came with my LCT press. I have a RCBS powder thru expander for my pistol loading made for the case activated linkage. If you would like any more details just ask!