Finish on a Stainless Steel 686

[Luckyforward]

My 686 2.5" in stainless steel is looking a bit ragged. I bought it second hand; has a few minor rust spots on it.

BTW . . . I sent it back to S&W, had the hammer "bobbed" and the action smoothed - very cheap and returned very fast. Something for you S&W fans to think about.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to clean it up or some type of new refinish job?

As always, thanks for the feedback of all the good folks here - I genuinely appreciate all of you and all that I learn from you.

[nightrunner]

if you dont come up with something, might get S&W to refinish it for you. from $140-225

[Luckyforward]

When I sent it to the other work at S&W, I asked about some "clean up" and the gunsmith called to tell me that the gentleman in charge was out with a heart attack and it would be quite some time before I would get the gun back, so I elected not to do anything then.

Good point . . . if nothing comes up here, I should reinvestigate that.

[tn hp]

I have seen several police trade in weapons, in stainless, that have been bead blasted and they look nice. You may also try Flitz or "Mother's Brite" (?). Several of the members on the Smith & Wesson forum are able to achieve a brilliant shine on stanless revolvers with these products.

My on Mod. 66 snub nose shined up nicely with Flitz and elbow grease.

TN HP

[Luckyforward]

Thanx for the tip - back when I lived in NC, some of my friends on the NCHP talked about "Flitz" and I totally forgot about it until your mention of it.

Any idea where you can get it or should I just look on the net?

BTW . . . welcome, tn hp

[TripleDigitRide]

I use Jewelers Rouge for all my polishing needs. It can be purchased via the internet, or you can usually find it at your local truckstops. I get mine in liquid form, from our local T/A truckstop. I almost always use the green, but there are several options to choose from.

Here is one of the links for the stick/bar type JR.

http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/jeweler-rouge

That is usually what you'll find at most truckstops.

Edited July 17, 2008 by TripleDigitRide

[TripleDigitRide]

Thanx for the tip - back when I lived in NC, some of my friends on the NCHP talked about "Flitz" and I totally forgot about it until your mention of it.

Any idea where you can get it or should I just look on the net?

BTW . . . welcome, tn hp

I've tried Flitz, and it wasn't bad, but IMHO, nothing compares to JR and a high speed buffer/Dremel.

You can find Flitz in almost any store.

[Luckyforward]

I've tried Flitz, and it wasn't bad, but IMHO, nothing compares to JR and a high speed buffer/Dremel.

You can find Flitz in almost any store.

JR?

[TripleDigitRide]

JR?

Jewelers Rouge.

[Luckyforward]

I see said the blind man to the deaf woman . . .

thanks!

[Guest m4coyote]

The original finish on the stainless 686 is not exactly a mirror polish, but more closely resembles a brushed surface. JR and a high speed buffer will accomplish a "mirror" polish if that is what you desire, but if you want an "original" appearance, you might try this.

The solid gold, or stainless steel bands on Rolex watches have a "brushed" finish, and I have been able to restore the appearance of them with "wet and dry" abrasive paper. It is available in the hardware store, and comes in various degrees of abrasive grade. To achieve a "factory" appearance, it is necessary to try several different grades in small areas until you find the one that creates the same grain as the factory finish around it. Use oil on the paper to keep it from clogging, and work carefully & methodically to match the direction of the original "grain".

This method has worked well enough for me, that a local factory certified Rolex watch maker thought that I purchased a brand new 18K gold bracelet for a 1975 model Rolex President. I used the abrasive paper on the outside brushed links, and Happich Semichrome polish on the mirror polished inside links. He would have never suspected that it had been refinished unless I told him. Stainless steel is more forgiving, because it is much harder than gold. Try starting out with 320 grit on the "rougher" surfaces, and if necessary, go on up to 3200 ultra fine finishing paperfor the finer grained areas.

If the sighting plane area has a matte finish, it can be restored with a cabinet blaster & glass beads. Use fairly low pressure to do this (35-55 psi). Tape up all areas that you do not want to have a dull finish.

[Guest DrBoomBoom]

All these ideas sound good. I've had good results with Flitz and cotton balls. Turn on the ball game and polish away. Don't overdo it on the logo.

[Luckyforward]

Thanks to both coyote and boom boom! I like both suggestions!

[Guest eyebedam]

I use Jewelers Rouge for all my polishing needs. It can be purchased via the internet, or you can usually find it at your local truckstops. I get mine in liquid form, from our local T/A truckstop. I almost always use the green, but there are several options to choose from.

Here is one of the links for the stick/bar type JR.

http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/jeweler-rouge

That is usually what you'll find at most truckstops.

Trip Are you sure you havent been looking at no Lot Lizards @ the local TA?

[DaveTN]

Stainless guns are the easiest to keep looking new. If you want a polished finish you can do it by hand with Mothers Mag Polish or SemiChrome; or you can use a buffer. I have used both with excellent results.

If you want the original finish you need to have it glass beaded.

Here is one I polished…

x

x

[Luckyforward]

That looks good, Dave. What did you use on that one - Mothers Mag or SemiChrome?

[DaveTN]

Thanks.

I used both. I had that gun for over 10 years and put that finish on by hand with SemiChrome and then maintained it with both SemiChrome and Mothers. I did it in many settings.

I have done many stainless revolvers and I really can’t tell a dimes worth of difference in either product for maintenance. I would look for SemiChrome if I was starting from scratch, but sometimes it’s hard to find.

I have also used a buffer; but you have to be careful.

[Luckyforward]

I'll look for SemiChrome on the "internets"

[TripleDigitRide]

Trip Are you sure you havent been looking at no Lot Lizards @ the local TA?

No, I got to the Pilot for my Lot Lizard shopping. With all the crack houses being right around the corner, there tends to be more of a selection. Not only that, but the toothless "ladies of the night" tend to hang out at the Pilot.

[Luckyforward]

Than

Thanks to all for the good advice; here is the outcome of my "cleanup." First used a metal polish to take all the "gunk" off; then red jewelers rouge for cleaning, white for polishing, and then cloth pad on my electric drill.

[Luckyforward]

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[Luckyforward]

I'll get the picture here when I figure out what I am doing wrong!

[DaveTN]

I'll get the picture here when I figure out what I am doing wrong!

Thanks to all for the good advice; here is the outcome of my "cleanup." First used a metal polish to take all the "gunk" off; then red jewelers rouge for cleaning, white for polishing, and then cloth pad on my electric drill.

You are just missing the "h" as in http: at the beginning of that.

But you did a good job on it.....

[TripleDigitRide]

Looks good. Are you happy with the results?

[Luckyforward]

TripleDigitRide, I am EXTREMELY pleased! I am really sorry that I did not take a "before" and "after" picture; the difference is dramatic!

Dave, thank you for posting the pic here . . . I am still not sure how to post pics properly. How did you know where to go in and see to add the "h"?

Verbal Kint was helpful as well . . . I just don't fully know what I am doing!