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What are the best AR brands?


jgradyc

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I've got a stag, a psa, a couple home built. Only ones I didn't like were the aero precision, spikes, and double star. aero precision and spikes fit was loose on all the uppers I tried, aero precision when adjusted had a gap almost 1/16 of an inch and would slam fire. double star cracked at the rear takedown pin hole.

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I've got a stag, a psa, a couple home built. Only ones I didn't like were the aero precision, spikes, and double star. aero precision and spikes fit was loose on all the uppers I tried, aero precision when adjusted had a gap almost 1/16 of an inch and would slam fire. double star cracked at the rear takedown pin hole.

 

And yet the last Aero I had fit a BCM upper like they were seperated at birth.  I mean absolutely perfectly. 

 

The slop you describe above would be considered a feature if it were an AK!

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ive had a lot of them good and bad heres my good list

Noveske rifleworks

Daniel Defense

Knights armament

Colt ( if you can stand the carbine gas system) 

 

Ive owned or do own rifles from these manufactures and by far noveske is above and beyond all the others.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest 5Legion

Over the years I've owned/shot DPMS (my first, still have it!), Colt, Olympic, Cav Arms, Bushmaster, and a retro Century Arms C-15A1 (mostly M16A1 Colt parts).  The only rifle I ever had issues with was the Cav Arms and that was with a 9mm Oly upper, so can't really blame Cav Arms.  There is nothing wrong with a DMPS .... mine still rocking flawlessly after at least 3K rounds, bought it when the ban first expired.

Edited by 5Legion
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I was sold on Daniel Defense from the moment I saw the destruction test video. It's the only AR I have now in 5.56 and I can't really imagine it not doing everything I'd ever need an AR to do. I used to have a Smith and Wesson and was very happy with it also.

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I know there is four pages but I'll say any mil spec rifle is pretty much as good as the next. I've shot a high standard, rock river, dpms, Yankee hill, seekins and spikes. Can't tell a difference even when you strip them. If they have nicer parts like a trigger or chrome bolt, it's all interchangeable.

AK if you never want it to let you down.
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Have 4 rock river arms in the family and never a problem with any of them. For the pre panic money (when we bought ours) they were the best value for the dollar. I think any name brand rifle will serve well so it's more a matter of what's the best value at the time. Of course the "best" is just an opinion and opinions are like ears everybody has two. In the end "best" or " worst" will be based on each persons own experience with a given product. Best advice is try to hook up with people willing to let you shoot thiers and select based on your experience. Good luck
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Guest carter

I have a spikes lower that i put together probably just as good as a factory could have and cost me half the price of an assembled one, bought my upper from Del-ton fully assembled with BCG and have had no issues with it at all... it's a lot cheaper than buying one out the show room

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I'm not even a huge Colt fan. I only have 1 6920 however as people are learning during the panic buy that all parts are not created equal. Bolts are shearing lugs because they either weren't treated right not they're using inferior steel. Things like that are my likely to happen when companies like Colt use the proper steel and Hp, and MPI their parts. Just because they have crappy finishes doesn't make them less than a DD or BCM. By your car analogy then they're a corvette with a crappy paint job but it doesn't mean it doesn't perform well. Also personally I'm not completely sold on CHF barrels. CHF was developed to mass produce barrels quickly and efficiently. Does that mean its neccessarily better? I don't really know.

Ummm, WHAT?? You do realize that is the OPPOSITE of the truth right? It takes much longer to CHF a barrel rather than machine one. Here is a process of temperature forging;

 

All of the following forging processes can be performed at various temperatures, however they are generally classified by whether the metal temperature is above or below the recrystallization temperature. If the temperature is above the material's recrystallization temperature it is deemed hot forging; if the temperature is below the material's recrystallization temperature but above 30% of the recrystallization temperature (on an absolute scale) it is deemed warm forging; if below 30% of the recrystallization temperature (usually room temperature) then it is deemed cold forging. The main advantage of hot forging is that as the metal is deformed work hardening effects are negated by the recrystallization process. Cold forging typically results in work hardening of the piece.

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