Honda Civic drinking oil

[kieefer]

What does JDM stand for? Until I read your post, I assumed it was a company like Jasper selling remans.

Japanese Domestic Market 

[kieefer]

From what I've been told these JDM motors come out of Japan with 50K + - miles on them, something about Japans regulations on emissions, (surprise, surprise) and they have to replace these motors with new ones. 

[S&WForty]

From what I've been told these JDM motors come out of Japan with 50K + - miles on them, something about Japans regulations on emissions, (surprise, surprise) and they have to replace these motors with new ones. 

That is crazy. Must be the Kyoto Way.

[Murgatroy]

They don't replace the motors, they junk the cars. It is a tax liability to own a car older than around ten years. Stimulates the economy. This creates a large secondary market for Japanese Domestic Market engines for export to other countries.

 

Before shipping became absurd, the preferred method was to buy a 'front clip;' which is the front half of the car from the dashboard forward. This ensured you got the wiring harness and all related components, something you are't guaranteed with an engine set.

 

Most JDM engines have ~100k kilometers on them, which is around 60k miles. Still low mileage for imports.

[kieefer]

OK, may have over-reacted a bit but I like to look at all the options, and still need to.

 

So, we got it home on a tow-dolly just to be safe as mentioned.

I passed on the compression test since the plugs looked great and it runs so well and its not blowing oil like I assumed.

 

We've always had a leaking oil pan and we've had a gasket in the trunk for one of these days, that day came Sat.

 

You have to or because it's easier to remove the oil pan IF a section of the exhaust pipe comes out so what did I find when I pulled the pipe off, an exhaust leak. This was some of the noise down low.

 

With the pan now removed the inside of it was so clean to have 190K miles on it I was pleasantly surprised, no sludge or foreign objects in the bottom either. 

Now with the pan off I'm inspecting the crank, rods and cylinder walls for any scoring, any unusual amount of slack in the rods, anything obvious, nothing found.

 

Buttoned it up with new gaskets all around.

It sounds better as far as loudness but it still sounds like maybe a loose valve when you rev it up, maybe harder than that. Very quite at idle, almost a knock when revs get up. Still, no miss and there is very little blue smoke and only when you punch it.

 

Next project is to check the valve clearance but I did a feel test and all of them feel about the same gap, none more loose that another. Also the noise is on the distributor side, which is a new one. 

 

I'm going to drive it this week and keep a check on the oil but I'm almost at the point to ignore it and see what happens.  :shrug: