AR build questions

[CQB Elite]

I'm finally completing my AR build after gathering the parts for over a year. I'm using a Noveske upper/lower set, some Daniel Defense parts, and Magpul stock. I have two questions:

First, what grease are you guys using for the barrel nut? I know that Mil-spec is Moly Disulfide and it should contain no graphite. I'm trying to find something local and don't want to buy a gigantic tube or tub.

Second, the receiver extension seems to have and upward angle when in place. It's lower at the receiver than it is at the end. It does screw in freely and the threads are not crossed. Is this normal? Could the threads be cut in the receiver at an angle? Should I contact Noveske?

[Oh Shoot]

See you had no responses yet.

 

Dunno about the barrel nut question, but the buffer tube should not "rise".

 

On my ARs, if I use a level on top of the flat top receiver, the buffer tube pert close levels with that also.

 

- OS

Edited February 27, 2013 by Oh Shoot

[Guest summertime27]

Use a copper based anti-sieze on the barrel nut. The anti-sieze willnot disappear under a heat load like the grease will.

 

Not sure what to tell you regarding the buffer tube ...... it should be level..... as Oh shoot recomended put a level on it, could just be an optical illusion? if it is at an angle definitly a call to CS is in order?

[Dolomite_supafly]

Use whatever kind of grease you have on the barrel nut. There is no reason for it to remain after it is put together. There should bd no heat during assembly. Tighten it by hand then tighten it to the next point where the gas tube will pass through. It is nearly impossible to have it torque to spec AND line up. After you are done wipe away any excess grease or use solvent to remove excess.

The buffer tube should be straight relative to the rest of the lower. Put the lower in a vice with a level across the mating surface of the lower, not the top of the upper. Once the mating surface is level place the level on the buffer tube to ensure it is the same. If it is not then it needs to go back to the maker.

Dolomite Edited February 27, 2013 by Dolomite_supafly

[CQB Elite]

Thanks for the replies. I'll try checking it with a level as soon as I get home.

[Guest summertime27]

Dolomite is correct - there is no heat during assy. But if you actually shoot your rifle there will be heat present on the threads which are aluminum on the upper & steel on the barrel nut which can/probably will cause the 2 parts to sieze over time when heated & cooled a bunch of times. The copper based antisieze will aid 5-10 years down the road if you decide or need to remove the barrel, grease will be gone. Grease will help at assy but offers little help down the road compared to anti-sieze....

 

Torque however is important however!!??..... Dont over torque, you run the risk of damaging the upper. It is not impossible or difficult to torque properly with quality parts. On occasions adjustments are need to obtain the correct torque but most often not.

[mikegideon]

I don't think the threads on the barrel nut don't get hot enough to sieze. I use plain old tetra gun grease on mine. I always torque my barrel nuts to spec (within range).