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9mm Loaders, How much of a crimp do you use?


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Posted

Hey guys, the crimp is the one thing that I'm still sweating a little bit on the reload process. I haven't slammed any home yet, but trying to get as much info as I can first. I'm wondering if after the seating process, how much a crimp is actually needed. I'm wondering if the resized case puts enough pressure on it without needing a crimp. 

 

Thanks

Posted
I use a Lee factory crimp die. It's VERY difficult to get too much crimp on awakened bullet with one. For jacketed loads I run a pretty good crimp but it's not visibly noticeable or anything extreme.
  • Like 1
Posted

I also use the lee die.   I crimp a bit heavy because I use a slower powder and that helps it burn out fully.  A fast powder, all you need is to hold the bullet in place when it hits the freed ramp, which is a light crimp.  Its hard to over-crimp with this die but you can make it heavier than it needs to be (harmless) if you want.   The lee die is nice and consistent, which is a big plus.

Posted

All you need to do is to remove the bell you put on the mouth of the case before loading the round. Most semi autos headspace on the case mouth, so you don't want a heavy crimp. I adjust my bullet seater die to do this.

  • Like 1
Posted

All you need to do is to remove the bell you put on the mouth of the case before loading the round. Most semi autos headspace on the case mouth, so you don't want a heavy crimp. I adjust my bullet seater die to do this.

 

What this guy said.

Posted

All you need to do is to remove the bell you put on the mouth of the case before loading the round. Most semi autos headspace on the case mouth, so you don't want a heavy crimp. I adjust my bullet seater die to do this.

 

^^^^^^^^

This.

 

Always test a few rounds in one of your 9's to make sure they seat in the barrel adquately.

Posted

I use just enough to hold the bullet in place which is actually very little.

+1

One technique is to take a factory round, run it to top of the press, and screw your crimp die down until it firmly touches the round, then set lock die.  Good neck tension will keep the bullet from seating deeper as it hits the feedramp.

Posted

+1

One technique is to take a factory round, run it to top of the press, and screw your crimp die down until it firmly touches the round, then set lock die.  Good neck tension will keep the bullet from seating deeper as it hits the feedramp.

 

This is one of the techniques I was playing with. 

Posted

+1

One technique is to take a factory round, run it to top of the press, and screw your crimp die down until it firmly touches the round, then set lock die.  Good neck tension will keep the bullet from seating deeper as it hits the feedramp.

 

This is where I start too.

Posted

+1

One technique is to take a factory round, run it to top of the press, and screw your crimp die down until it firmly touches the round, then set lock die.  Good neck tension will keep the bullet from seating deeper as it hits the feedramp.

That is exactly the same way I started mine. I have had no issues with it, even with a faster burning powder (Titegroup). I do know that I actually broke my RCBS inertia
bullet puller the other night trying to pop one out but in fairness it was about 40 degrees in my garage and the puller is made out of plastic! lol

Posted

Just remove the bell at the case mouth. Remove the barrel from the firearm and use the chamber as a gage.

Only want the round to go into the chamber on its own and when turned upside down the round should fall out on its own.

Minimum on the crimp.   .

  • Like 1
Posted

That is exactly the same way I started mine. I have had no issues with it, even with a faster burning powder (Titegroup). I do know that I actually broke my RCBS inertia
bullet puller the other night trying to pop one out but in fairness it was about 40 degrees in my garage and the puller is made out of plastic! lol

 

Be sure to call RCBS and tell them it broke. They should send you a replacement.

  • Like 1
Posted

I resize a few casings,... measure case mouth subtract .003" by adjusting the taper crimp die after screwing it down on a resized case crimp one time only measure adjust then use a different resized case crimp measure and adjust until I get to 3 thousandths undersized 

 

I do this for all my handgun rounds everything from .45ACP powder puff loads,.40S&W 10mm and .38 Super IPSC/USPSA hotrod rounds, .38/.357 rounds (with the exception of my S&W M-52 which is a whole different reloading animal.) .401 Herters

 

Some lighter loads,accuracy wise, respond to a bit of crimp to build pressure a bit before the bullet gets going take measurements and experiment to find your crimp combo if you are going for absolute accuracy

 

I have never used or plan to use a roll crimp, I believe taper is better due to better tension control and less bullet disruption  try pulling a few of each to see the difference  you probably will never roll crimp again.

 

All else fails take a reloaded round and press it into the edge of your bench if you can setback the projectile you need to readjust so you can't.

 

John

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