S&W Model 36 Bent Hammer

[Guest RISC777]

1944 to 1946 dated Model 36 Chief's Special which has a bent hammer.  Specifically bent 'just enough' that it will not cock.  It will fire fine.

 

Has anyone done such that would offer their input?

[56FordGuy]

Are you trying to bend it back, or just wondering how it happened?

 

If it were mine, I would remove the hammer and try to straighten it in a press. There's the risk of cracking or breaking it, though. 

[Guest RISC777]

How did it happen? Unknown. Age, probably dropped a time or more before I got it.

Cracking or breakage is exactly what I don't want.

Probably will end up taking to Tom in Franklin. If he says he can fix it, great. The best solution may just be a replacement hammer (if I can find one).

Edited February 10, 2013 by RISC7777

[TripleDigitRide]

I'd imagine a little heat will help prevent breaking/cracking. In reality, it's probably too much trouble. I'll take it off your hands and dispose of it properly.  :cool:

[mikegideon]

I'm guessing it will need a little heat. They made that gun for a lot of years (I have one... not my first). Bet a replacement hammer is pretty easy to find.

[mikegideon]

I'd imagine a little heat will help prevent breaking/cracking. In reality, it's probably too much trouble. I'll take it off your hands and dispose of it properly.  :cool:

 

My all time favorite S&W wheel gun.

[Currently]

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/SmithWesson-33495.htm

[mikegideon]

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/SmithWesson-33495.htm

 

That's where I would have looked first

[graycrait]

Are you sure it isn't the hammer pin that is soldered to the frame that is bent?  If it isn't then hammers are often found on Gunbroker for not too bad prices.  The other issue with S&W revolvers is that there may be some handfitting required. 

[DaveTN]

Send it to Smith & Wesson and get it fixed for free.

 

[UncleJak]

Send it to Smith & Wesson and get it fixed for free.

What all will they fix for free? 

[Dolomite_supafly]

I would grab it with a pair of pliers and try to straighten it out. If it doesn't work or it breaks you are going to have to have it fixed. But if it does work then you are out nothing.

You should be able to bend it up without damaging anything else.

Dolomite

[graycrait]

I talked to a gunsmith about this once.  Hammers are rarely bent, but the hammer pin can be bent with mistreatment, abuse or jackleg gunsmithing (this describes me).  One guy old me that to remove and solder a new one requires refinishing and with a stainless this requires particular care.  I dunno, but sounds good to me. Another gunsmith said he did one but it required too much care and refinish and said he won't do another due to cost in time and recommended a trip to S&W.  A retired LEO friend went to the weeklong S&W revolver armorer school back in the day.  He said that when replacing parts in S&W revolvers that each part they replaced would require a swipe or two at key points with a stone, then replace, then disassemble and another stroke or two, then assemble, and so on. 

 

If it were me and I thought the pin was crooked I would do as Dolomite said and carefully try to straighten it.  What have you got to lose?  If that doesn't work send it to S&W.  I have tried to insall a NIB hammer in one of my S&Ws and for some reason I can't get it correct, but this hammer is a more recent manufacture and my revolver is 30 years old.  I would like to go to the S&W revolver armorer school but that isn't likely. Give straightening the pin a try and do a function test.  If that doesn't work send to S&W.

[DaveTN]

What all will they fix for free? 

Just about anything other than obvious abuse.

[Guest RISC777]

All good suggestions.

As I can tell from working the hammer is that it is bent "down," so bending it a slight amount "up" is the fix as I see it.

The pinning seems fine since it shoots round after round perfectly. Just won't go to cocked position.

I'm thinking a 'warm' room with perhaps a bit of slight applied heat and attempt to bend it upwards (so that it doesn't come down into contact with the frame and grip) and see what is accomplished.

 

[By the way, Thanks, David, for getting my login fixed!!!]