what is the minimum I need?

[Andyshowfan]

Through some trading this for that and that for more this I have acquired a lee single stage c-frame press. Although I have heard they are not the best for reloading, I did get a very fair deal on it.  I know I will need brass, bullets, primers and powder (although i need to know what kind) and I'm searching for a reloading manual, but at the bare minimum what else do I need to start reloading .223, .40 and .38spl?

[Smokin45]

Dies,,  I have books and can find a good load for your selection

[Andyshowfan]

Dies,,  I have books and can find a good load for your selection

Ahh.........a fellow Sevier Countian

[Smokin45]

Yes  We can do this!!!!

[BigK]

First, you need at least 2 reloading manuals and a strong understanding of the material. They aren't just for looking up loads.

 

Then you'll need:

Dies for each caliber (Lee is cheapest and works great)

Scales (to weigh charges)

Calipers (to measure crimp and overall length)

A strong table that doesn't wobble (best if bolted to the wall)

Powder measuring system (dippers work, but a powder measure would be better)

A powder funnel

 

 

Since you're doing .223, you'll eventually need a trimmer as well.

Edited February 4, 2013 by BigK

[spikehunter]

You don't have to have a powder measure, but it will not be forth reloading(time wise) if you don't. A scale is mandatory. Shell holders. some kind of loading tray, but you can make that if you want. unless you plan on buying new brass all the time a case trimmer.

[Smokin45]

I have over 40 years reloading experience,  I believe we can get through this!!!!   If you need help I'm available

[Andyshowfan]

Through some trading this for that and that for more this I have acquired a lee single stage c-frame press. Although I have heard they are not the best for reloading, I did get a very fair deal on it.  I know I will need brass, bullets, primers and powder (although i need to know what kind) and I'm searching for a reloading manual, but at the bare minimum what else do I need to start reloading .223, .40 and .38spl?

I am so tickled to have so many replies, but wanted to add that I have never reloaded, so I am a newbie and do not mind being treated as one :)

[Andyshowfan]

I have over 40 years reloading experience,  I believe we can get through this!!!!   If you need help I'm available

I may just take you up on it!

[RED333]

Go with the offerd help, Caster has helped me a LOT, in casting and reloading.

Not a thing wrong getting help, shows you are wanting to learn, good for YOU!

[Guest 6.8 AR]

You can use online reloading manuals for your data. I doubt there's any such thing as a bad reloading press, just the operator's preference.

Get a good balance scale. You might want to start out on straight wall loading, such as the two pistol calibers you mentioned and work your way

to the rifle.

 

See David(DLM) for his primed Lake City brass and powder. That will help you a bunch when you start to play with the .223 loading. Also, for the

rifle, you are going to need a trimmer. If you have a drill press, you can get a setup to put on it to trim very easily from Forster, probably other

places.

 

This, on top of the other things mentioned above.

Edited February 4, 2013 by 6.8 AR

[Dolomite_supafly]

Even new brass needs to be trimmed in most cases. Some will be fine but some will be long.

 

Your C press will be fine for 223 and pistol calibers.

 

Make sure you clean your brass if it falls on the ground. All it takes is a single piece of sand to ruin a set of dies. You can use Lemishine, found at Walmart, or just plain water. Add hot water to a container, with or without Lemishine, and shake it good for a few minutes. Rinse with water a couple more times and then let the brass dry over a day or two. BTW, tumbling can do the same thing in 15 minutes and that is why most reloaders own one.

 

Dolomite

[Andyshowfan]

Go with the offerd help, Caster has helped me a LOT, in casting and reloading.

Not a thing wrong getting help, shows you are wanting to learn, good for YOU!

I am never ashamed to ask for help if I'm unsure of how to do something. I learn more with "hands on" than with anything else, but always want as much info as I can possibly retain in my head :)

[Guest 6.8 AR]

Even that stuff from David needs to be trimmed. But it is so much easier to fool with, being already primed. The work will become monotonous

as Hell, but you will benefit from the loading. Get some music or audiobook to listen to while you are doing your exercises.  Vivaldi is good. :D

 

I had the brass I got from David trimmed before he hit the Tennessee River, Friday morning. Finished loading a thousand rounds of 5.56

by Saturday afternoon. 30 cents a round and about eight broken up hours of work in between working on windows(which I still have about

thirty to go)and being on here. I actually got to clean my bench and loading room to the point I may, maybe post a pic on here(doubt it:D).

Edited February 4, 2013 by 6.8 AR

[Dolomite_supafly]

If they have never been fired I am not sure why it would need to be trimmed. It is likely under the maximum but still longer than most people's trimm to length. I know I never had to trim them but I did need to crimp the bullets to hold them in place.

 

Dolomite

[Guest 6.8 AR]

I mic'd them and thought they should get to about what you said you usually do, Gordon. :D Made sense to me to do that and more than likely

not need to, next time around.

 

BTW, I stole your load data, also.

Edited February 4, 2013 by 6.8 AR

[Dolomite_supafly]

LOL, which one?

 

 

Dolomite

[Guest 6.8 AR]

For any 6.8 fans, David mentioned the possibility of some Lake City 6.8 primed brass in the future. I didn't realize they made the stuff. That's

some good news to me.

[Guest 6.8 AR]

62 grain for SMP842 backed off .2 grains off your max.

Edited February 4, 2013 by 6.8 AR

[rcrespo106]

don't forget some type of case lube for those .223, if not they will get stuck in the die.

[Andyshowfan]

Update with new question. I have had many great replies on what I need, one being a powder scale. I was lucky enough to win $40 bucks on a $2 scratch off today so I have some folding money burning a hole in my pocket. As far as scales go, do I need an actual scale, would a powder thrower work or do I need both?

[2.ooohhh]

You can't verify the powder thrower's charge without a scale. 

[Andyshowfan]

You can't verify the powder thrower's charge without a scale. 

kinda figured that, Thanks!

[Jonnin]

Update with new question. I have had many great replies on what I need, one being a powder scale. I was lucky enough to win $40 bucks on a $2 scratch off today so I have some folding money burning a hole in my pocket. As far as scales go, do I need an actual scale, would a powder thrower work or do I need both?

 

My cheap digital scale (and these are easy to find) is accurate to about 1/4 a grain which is plenty good enough to "get started" with anything except mico calibers like 25 acp.  It was $20 I think or thereabouts.

 

Dunno what powder device you are looking at but $20 is not likely to buy much, probably need 50+.

 

If no one said it you must have case lube for 223. 

[Guest 6.8 AR]

I use the same old Lyman balance scale I started with, years ago. I imagine they are still cheap. Nah, save some more. They are

in the 70-100 buck range on Ebay.