Reloading - Powder Measures

[SpacemanSpiff]

I recently started reloading for handguns. I have not yet purchased a powder measure. I did buy the Lee Powder Measure Kit but doesn't help me too much since I can only use the .3cc and .5cc scoops.

What do you recommend for consistent charges?

[Guest Grout]

I used the Lee scoops for years.For the last dozen or so I have used the RCBS Little Dandy pistol powder measure and really like it.It has interchangable drums and is really quick if you put the brass in loading blocks.You will not be able to get minute charges to the 10th of a grain but you will be able to get within .5 with most powders.

[Guest tokarev]

I've had the Lee scoops, but confess that I've never loaded with them (although I've always heard good reviews about them) I also have the "Lee Perfect Powder Measure". I have (seriously) measured many thousands of powder charges for pistol and rifle ammo with it. Ranging from light .38 wadcutters to heavy .45/70. I always make it a practice to weigh every 10th load on my RCBS powder scale and I've never had a charge deviate from where ever I've set the measure. Let me state that I also never load charges that are at the top ragged edge for chamber pressure either (never saw the need to punish either the gun or me).

So. Although I've never used any other kind, this is my long winded way of saying that my vote goes for the Lee Perfect measure. :-)

[John Wall]

Using a powder suitable for measures is cardinal to consistent charges.

I personally use Hodgdon's Titegroup for my non magnum handgun loads. It is designed for low pressure loads, even in large hulls like the 45 Colt. Winchester 231 is another powder used by commercial loaders for good uniformity. Accurate Arm's #2 and #5 are great for low pressure plinkers. #7 is ideal for the 9X19 and such, while #9 is hard to beat for factory level 357, 41 and 44 Mag loads.

Bulky flake powders used in powder measures typically do not give consistent charge weights for small amounts.

I have a Dillon 650 and a 1050. These come equipped with measures that WILL provide +- .1 gr accuracy.

The RCBS Uniflo powder measure, which can be equipped with a small or large drum, allowing one to load cartridges from the 25 Auto to the large rifle cartridges, will give unbeatable consistency. The Little Dandy will give excellent results.

Make sure your scale has either changeable inserts or has adjustments that can be locked down. I believe Lee's model is the Auto Disk. Once set up, it CANNOT throw errant powder charges.

A loading block, and constant, visual inspection of each charged case at each step in the reloading process is also another key to safe and successful non progressive reloading.

Also, learning a repeatable technique so the scale is manipulated the SAME WAY EVERY TIME is important to achieving good consistency.

Most factory ammo is loaded to within .2 gr.

[SpacemanSpiff]

I'm currently reloading .38 spls and 9mm. I will move to .45 acp then probably .357 mag and .44 mag. I'm able to use my .3cc and .5cc lee scoops using AA #2 to load safe .38 spls. I've had to weigh each 9mm load which is why I'm asking for the recommendations.

I see that the RCBS little dandy needs different drums for different charges but I haven't been able to find any load data for the different drums and I'm not going to buy a few to see what works best. For the money, unless I can find the load data for the individual drums, I might as well get a more expensive one with graduated settings or insert disks.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Edited July 5, 2008 by SpacemanSpiff

[nb forrest]

Hornady makes a good measure.

[I_Like_Pie]

Don't give up on those dippers. I have used the lee dippers for years. They are really cheap and very, very accurate. If they aren't the size that you need all you have to do is get the next size up, grind it down, smooth it, and wipe it with a used fabric softener sheet to rid it of static. You can do the same thing with a spent rimfire, 9mm or .45 casing and a paperclip to make your own measure similar to a blackpowder measure.

If you use a single stage setup this is still by far the easiest way to go. wrap tape around the handle to remind yourself that it is a custom dipper. I use them for 44, 45, 9mm, 40s&w, .45/70, .223, 38, 357, .380, etc with all sorts of loa sizes and powders. If you do it right I would put those dippers against any dropper for consistency any day of the week.

For big grained rifle loads I like the Lyman Measure. High quality brass that does not cut powder and has a "knocker" that helps with consistency.

[Rightwinger]

Gonna go the opposite direction on you. Don't use dippers or measures for anything but a "get close" start then weigh each charge. Its slow but I have never squibbed or blown anything apart either!

I use the stinky little ole Lee thrower that came with a Lee Anniversary kit to set a charge and get it within a grain or so. I throw the charge into my Dillon cup with the sealed output funnel and throw it on the digital scale. Use a trickler to get the last grains dead on and funnel that into the ready cartridge. I immediately put it in the press and seat the bullet. I'm either done or it goes in a ready rack to come back through for crimping if I'm doing any.

You cannot go wrong with this as your inspecting/handling each cartidge as its built. If you have to go fast get a good progressive and again, throw charges till they are dead on by weight!

I see to much that can go wrong putting powder in cases in a group and not immediately covering the powder with the bullet.

My 2 cents, for what its worth to the conversation.

(and I do this for .45 ACP, .223 and 38 spc as well as the big dogs so yeah, I have worn myself out measuring one at a time...worth it to me)

[Guest Mugster]

I use both a lee powder thrower and an old RCBS thrower. I throw into a shotcup, dump the shotcup into a RCBS balance scale with a magnet and trickle up. Bout 2-3 charges a minute if i'm hauling.

I haven't seen a dipper or a thrower of any make that'll do much better than +/- about a 3/4 grain. Which is ok if your substantially under the limit. I throw about a 1/2 grain under with both throwers. Occasionally a charge is over, so i dump it back in and throw again.

But powder charging is not the beast I fear. Brass prep is what kills me.

[Guest Mugster]

Gonna go the opposite direction on you. Don't use dippers or measures for anything but a "get close" start then weigh each charge. Its slow but I have never squibbed or blown anything apart either!

I use the stinky little ole Lee thrower that came with a Lee Anniversary kit to set a charge and get it within a grain or so. I throw the charge into my Dillon cup with the sealed output funnel and throw it on the digital scale. Use a trickler to get the last grains dead on and funnel that into the ready cartridge. I immediately put it in the press and seat the bullet. I'm either done or it goes in a ready rack to come back through for crimping if I'm doing any.

You cannot go wrong with this as your inspecting/handling each cartidge as its built. If you have to go fast get a good progressive and again, throw charges till they are dead on by weight!

I see to much that can go wrong putting powder in cases in a group and not immediately covering the powder with the bullet.

My 2 cents, for what its worth to the conversation.

(and I do this for .45 ACP, .223 and 38 spc as well as the big dogs so yeah, I have worn myself out measuring one at a time...worth it to me)

I try to do lots of 100-200 rounds. What I do is try to get my woman to inspect the charged cases in the loading blocks with a flashlight to check for uncharged cases and anything unusual. I have her pull a few brass at various points and do some measuring as well. Works for me. But your right, i'll drive the bullets in pretty quick after i charge. I may delay on crimping until i have however many i'm doing.

[Rightwinger]

Yep, brass prep is time consuming as well but I do them in batches. Assembly line style works for me. I do all the primer removal, then tumble, line them up then resize the entire batch, line them up and install all primers, line them up then measure/weigh powders and ram bullets, line em up and crimp or inspect and then box and move on. I try to never load different calibers when running large batches on the same day. The numbers get stuck in my head...

If I'm just knocking out a run of 10 running up the chart in grains to see what kind of performance I'm getting that doesn't bother me in the least. I have stickers i put in my storage boxes with load data and I just write out what grains I intend to use, put the sticker in the box then load to what I wrote and put the prepped cartridges under those numbers. What I forget most often is something to write on AT the range so I can say how each did!

[Mark@Sea]

For the money its' hard to beat the Lee PPM

[SpacemanSpiff]

Having a Lee single stage, I do everything in batch work as well. I only charge, ram, crimp, 50 or 100 at a time when I'm able to use my scoops, other wise I do 50.

You've all given me some good opinions on where to go.

Thank you

[SpacemanSpiff]

I see that the RCBS little dandy needs different drums for different charges but I haven't been able to find any load data for the different drums and I'm not going to buy a few to see what works best.

FYI

I decided to contact RCBS and they sent me their catalog. It has a listing of charges for 50 different powders for their 28 different drums for their little dandy powder measure.

[Guest Grout]

The charge weight data for each Little Dandy drum is included with the Little Dandy powder measure.It also is listed in the Midway catalog.

[DWARREN123]

I also use the Lee Perfect Powder Measure and just dump into the case. I set the measure then check the first 5 for charge then every fifth charge for 20 and if it stays good, usually does, I then check every tenth charge.

It usually charges very consistantly with Longshot, the powder I use for 40 S&W.

[SpacemanSpiff]

I bought the Lyman #55 powder measure the other day at Reloaders Bench. It's $79.99 plus tax. So far it seems worth the money. It's very well made. The only thing that is plastic is the hopper and hopper lid. I didn't really want to spend that much but it looks like it will last longer than me.

I read a lot of the reviews on Midway about various powder measures. I did not like reading about the Lee measures and all the tinkering that people have to do to get them to work/not leak. The only tinkering that I had to do with the Lyman is to adjust the measure to get the right powder charge. I just finished loading 150 - 9mm. Out of that 150, I weighed about 15-20 to check for accuracy. I think there were 3 or 4 that weighed +.1, the rest were dead on.