My "I Want An AR Thread"

[Rightwinger]

Same as a standard plastic AR grip and probably those ERGOs, the one bolt/screw with a lock washer right up the middle.

[BrandonTN]

Have you checked out the Tapco SAW grip? I have one on my AK and there is a compartment, but it has a spring-loaded type hatch that isn't popping open under any circumstance. It isn't as cushy as the Ergo grip, but I like the way it feels in my hand.

[TripleDigitRide]

No, I haven't seen those. I'll have to check them out.

I really love this ERGO, but if the plug comes out while shooting, I'll have to figure something out. If worst comes to worst, I'll glue it shut. I have no need for the compartment, so it shouldn't really matter. If I ever need to remove the grip, I guess I'll have to rip the plug out/off. Maybe I can use some kind of glue that doesn't dry like a rock.

[TripleDigitRide]

Thanks to TPS -TNRobocop, I now have all the needed parts to finish the lower half of this damn thing.

Wish me luck, cause here goes nothing.

[TripleDigitRide]

when installing the safety selector detent, does he pointy end point towards the safety selector or the spring?

[Guest Verbal Kint]

Pointed end towards the selector.

[TripleDigitRide]

Pointed end towards the selector.

Thank you. That's what I thought/did, but wanted to make sure.

I wasn't 100% sure, because there seems to be a bit of play in the selector, especially when in the "fire" position. Not having much experience, I would have thought it would be a bit tighter.

Actually, there seems to be just as much play in the "safe" position.

[TripleDigitRide]

Nevermind. I used the wrong (too small) detent. I fixed it.

[Rightwinger]

You done yet?

[TripleDigitRide]

You done yet?

Yep! It was much much easier than I thought it would be.

[TripleDigitRide]

Well, except ACE didn't give me the top screw that holds the butt pad in place.

[TripleDigitRide]

Thanks to so many of you for all your help. I'm half way there.

My finished lower half. Sorry for the crappy pictures, but I decided to spend money on guns instead of cameras.

[Guest Verbal Kint]

Awesome job! Grats on building it yourself... almost too easy, eh?

[TripleDigitRide]

Awesome job! Grats on building it yourself... almost too easy, eh?

Thanks!

Yea, there were a few times that I needed to stop and think about it, but using the step-by-step instructions/pictures on AR15.com, it was much easier than I thought it would be.

I'm still going to let an experienced ARer take a look at it before I start shooting. I'm pretty confident that everything is together as it should be, but I'd like for someone to take a look at the trigger group, just to make sure it's 100%.

[Rightwinger]

You can stick my upper on her if you want!

Of course that might be kinda of like sharing your girlfriend..........

Your virgin lower under my well traveled and experienced upper !

You going to protect her and wait on her mate to be or pimp her out? ha:p

(and you gotta clean my upper to!)

[TripleDigitRide]

You can stick my upper on her if you want!

Of course that might be kinda of like sharing your girlfriend..........

Your virgin lower under my well traveled and experienced upper !

You going to protect her and wait on her mate to be or pimp her out? ha:p

(and you gotta clean my upper to!)

Hey, that's an idea!

I've always wanted to see what the world of 'swingers' was all about.

[TripleDigitRide]

And yea, I guess I need to learn how to clean them if I'm gonna shoot them.

[Rightwinger]

Yep, the only painful process in the world of AR (to me anyway)

It probably feels worse for me because as a ROTC cadet at UT Knox we were trained to dry clean the M16s after we dirtied them up with blanks.

Cleaning this way is long and tedious but CLP was a dirty word back then. Armorers found that the first editions of this "miracle" were allowing the gun to be cleaned, stored, and then it KEPT cleaning itself....they would come out of the armory filthy as the CLP kept pulling more carbon out of the tiny cracks and crevices. Their solution was to never put CLP on them, dry clean with cloth, toothbrush and the brass/stainless brushes. Oh and pipe cleaners...must not forget pipe cleaners.

Average cleaning time after we got in from the field was about 4 hours as I recall. Sucked to be us.

TDR, get your self a good one piece cleaning rod and the nylon .22 brushes. You won't need the metal ones. Get a modern CLP and the best oil you can find. I use Kroil (made here in Nashville) and Lucas Gun oil. Others will chime in with their favorites. Get a bag of patches and an old cotton T-shirt for wiping things after the intial clean. I usually clean next day and spray the CLP liberally in the upper and bore and plug the ends with patches and let it soak overnight. The lower usually only needs a wiping and oiling.

I also use gun scrubber aerosol to spray down the bolt and carrier in a jar before using CLP.

Hell, just grab a 6 pack for after the shoot and I'll "guide" you through a good cleaning session. I will WATCH every move.

[Guest FroggyOne2]

I also use gun scrubber aerosol to spray down the bolt and carrier in a jar before using CLP.

When I was shooting AR's competitively, I used Gumout carb and choke cleaner, it is cheaper than Gun Scrubber and does just as good a job. Spray the bolt, bolt carrier, firing pin, barrel extention and chamber and spray it down the gas tube. CLP is great stuff.. also you can use the following: 1/3 Marvel Mystery Oil, 1/3 F-type Trans fluid and 1/3 motor oil mixed together as a lube for the bolt carrier, it don't take much, rub it on. Use Montana Extreme Bolt Grease if you like or some kinda of grease like it on the bolt lugs.

[TripleDigitRide]

Yep, the only painful process in the world of AR (to me anyway)

It probably feels worse for me because as a ROTC cadet at UT Knox we were trained to dry clean the M16s after we dirtied them up with blanks.

Cleaning this way is long and tedious but CLP was a dirty word back then. Armorers found that the first editions of this "miracle" were allowing the gun to be cleaned, stored, and then it KEPT cleaning itself....they would come out of the armory filthy as the CLP kept pulling more carbon out of the tiny cracks and crevices. Their solution was to never put CLP on them, dry clean with cloth, toothbrush and the brass/stainless brushes. Oh and pipe cleaners...must not forget pipe cleaners.

Average cleaning time after we got in from the field was about 4 hours as I recall. Sucked to be us.

TDR, get your self a good one piece cleaning rod and the nylon .22 brushes. You won't need the metal ones. Get a modern CLP and the best oil you can find. I use Kroil (made here in Nashville) and Lucas Gun oil. Others will chime in with their favorites. Get a bag of patches and an old cotton T-shirt for wiping things after the intial clean. I usually clean next day and spray the CLP liberally in the upper and bore and plug the ends with patches and let it soak overnight. The lower usually only needs a wiping and oiling.

I also use gun scrubber aerosol to spray down the bolt and carrier in a jar before using CLP.

Hell, just grab a 6 pack for after the shoot and I'll "guide" you through a good cleaning session. I will WATCH every move.

Now I feel bad. You were kind enough to let me shoot your rifles, and I left you to clean them by yourself.

I already have most of the cleaning and lubrication stuff. I use most of the same products for pistols. I will have to get a one piece cleaning rod.

As far as oil goes, I'm a real fan of Militec-1 Synthetic Metal Conditioner. Being a dry impregnated lube, the first initial applications can be somewhat of a pain, but it really helps against so much residue build-up, which tends to make cleaning so much easier.

You can use a hair dryer or heat gun to activate the Militec, but I usually apply the Militec to all parts, including the bore, then fire a magazine or two. This gets the everythig up to operating temps., which activates the Militec. I repeat this process 2 or 3 times. Now everything is self-lubricating. I generally repeat the process every 1500-2000 rounds.

Edited July 19, 2008 by TripleDigitRide

[Rightwinger]

Got a bottle of Miltec from a guy at work a few years back and have been afraid to apply it to anything.

I guess having something "activate" on my weapons that isn't me pulling the trigger bothers me.

Don't worry bout the cleaning, I have it down to an art.

So when do you order your upper?

[TripleDigitRide]

I've been using Militec on pistols for quite a while, and I haven't noticed any negative effects. I've been using it on anything (gun related) that needs to be oiled. I've never used the Lucas gun oil, but I swear by their automotive products. I use all their additives on a regular basis. Ever decide to toss that Militec-1, holler at me first.

It will be a few weeks before I order the upper. Heck, I still don't know which company I'm going with. I'm also still trying to determine what barrel twist to go with.

Also, since I'm likely going with a varmint-type A4 upper half with free float tube/hand guard (minus the bull barrel), can I still use BUIS? I noticed some of the pre-assembled varmint uppers have a Weaver type gas block sight base.

Edited July 19, 2008 by TripleDigitRide

[Rightwinger]

As long as you have picatinny rails on the gas block and a flat top upper you can install BUIS. Some varmint rifles are built for scope optics only so they have bare or covered gas blocks that are under the handguards so that would limit you to a scope only rifle.

From what you and I have talked about I would recommend a standard A4/M4 flat top with 1/9 twist for the most common 55 grain bullets.

If you start going lower on the twist then you will be locked into the higher grain bullets for accuracy

[Guest eseaton]

I am going to save you a ton of money and direct you to high quality products right now. Buy a stripped lower receiver....Spikes Tactical or CMMG, around $110, that is the part you need an FFL holder to order for you, or buy from an individual. Next, look at J&T Distributing on the web. Buy a kit that has everything to complete your rifle except the lower receiver you already will have. There are many combinations you can get but for example, a 16" carbine with 6 position stock will run you about $485 shipped. These folks make an outstanding weapon that will last you a lifetime.

eseaton

[TripleDigitRide]

Is there anything I need to know/worry about if I decide to order an upper, without the BCG and charging handle?