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My "I Want An AR Thread"


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Posted

i hear them go either way, discussing the chrome lined barrel i would prefer it but i would not turn down a good deal depending on that feature only

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Posted
Damn! If I had no budget, this would be so much easier.:tough:

Haha, yeah for sure. I'd make one stop @ LWRC and be done with it.

Posted
Correct, you'd need a lower and lower parts with stock. No, this has a bull barrel, you can't put a flash hider on it.

Well, I don't think I need a bull barrel. I could probably save a few bucks by staying away from a bull barrel.

Guest Verbal Kint
Posted
What about triggers? any real benefit to a 2 stage?

No need unless you are wanting a target/competition type rifle (think precision). If you just want a plinker, you're GTG with a normal trigger.

Posted

TDR,

When your looking at uppers, make sure they come "complete" with the bolt carrier group or you'll be ticked and looking to dish another 130 or so out to get it. Most do come with the BCG but some do not so read the fine print.

Unless you buy a complete lower you will need some things that you might not know about. A complete Lower Parts Kit will give you the trigger group, take down and pivot pins, magazine release, and springs and detents for those items (I will show you when we get together). You will also need a stock (ACE) a buffer tube, buffer spring and buffer. You will also need to check if the LPK you order has a trigger guard ! Some do not. I like the new "winter trigger guards" that have more finger room being curved downward instead of straight. You get all that and you can slap the upper and lower together and have an operational AR minus the optics/sights of your choice.

Posted
TDR,

When your looking at uppers, make sure they come "complete" with the bolt carrier group or you'll be ticked and looking to dish another 130 or so out to get it. Most do come with the BCG but some do not so read the fine print.

Unless you buy a complete lower you will need some things that you might not know about. A complete Lower Parts Kit will give you the trigger group, take down and pivot pins, magazine release, and springs and detents for those items (I will show you when we get together). You will also need a stock (ACE) a buffer tube, buffer spring and buffer. You will also need to check if the LPK you order has a trigger guard ! Some do not. I like the new "winter trigger guards" that have more finger room being curved downward instead of straight. You get all that and you can slap the upper and lower together and have an operational AR minus the optics/sights of your choice.

WOW! You make it sound so simple.:)

That's what I'm worried about when ordering via the net. I don;t want to order the wrong thing, or realize it doesn't come with all the parts I was "thinking" it was supposed to come with.

Guest db99wj
Posted
Got the munchies?

No I just had a cupcake.:)

In the same boat as you. I know I want a 5.56 and not a 223 so I can shoot both. I will at least have a lower by election time.

Guest c.a.s.
Posted

Why must I be so young?

I was actually looking around at AR parts, and I particularly like Rock River Arms, I've heard lots of good things about them.

Are CMMG full lowers any good?

If price stays the same I can get a RRA basic M4 upper and a CMMG full lower for $735+shipping and TICS for my 18th birthday. But that's two more years, and I'm pretty sure that prices will change or bans/regulations will change.

Posted
No I just had a cupcake.:)

In the same boat as you. I know I want a 5.56 and not a 223 so I can shoot both. I will at least have a lower by election time.

Same here. I think 5.56 is the way I'd like to go.

Guest db99wj
Posted
Same here. I think 5.56 is the way I'd like to go.

I keep hearing the build vs. buy complete argument.

Here is a DPMS Panther Lite 16 for $725

http://www.dpmsinc.com/store/products/?prod=1066

?id=1066

It has a fixed handle and I know you want a flat top,

the have this one for $699, a Pantherâ„¢ 5.56NATO Sportical

http://www.dpmsinc.com/store/products/?prod=5295

?id=5295

Those prices are on the DPMS website.

I was thinking of buying the top one, and then at some point, if I wanted a flat top, I could buy one, a complete runs around $150. I could change the handguards if I wanted or add stuff if I wanted. But buying the base is a good way to start? Is my thinking out of whack or am I thinking right..dang that is a loaded question!

Posted

Guys just remember, in a pinch, as long as you have your lower, you can have 6 different uppers and just plug and play! If you want to start off with one of those basic DPMS rifles you'll have a blast and can then save up and swap out your parts or uppers. That means one lower = 5.56, 6.8, 6.5 Grendel, .204 Ruger, 458 Socom, and a host of other wildcats. All they might need is a caliber specific magazine to run! Just get or build the lower of your choice or get a whole rifle then save up for your next upper!

That was my original thought but I get greedy and want all of them to be complete after I start them.

Posted

I have never been able to get the straight up answer to that TDR. Most of what I have gathered is that the T marked uppers are simply marked on the picatinny rails with numbers so that you can record where you placed your optics or other accesories. All the T marked uppers I have seen have the numbers engraved or laser etched in the slots. The F as far as I have found is a forged part. Thus the "F" marked front sights.

Hey Joe (Hero Gear)....step in here and tell us the low down.

I honestly have never seen anything but forged front sights in the standard configuration. Aftermarket Back up and flip up sights might be milled or MIM but the standard front sights always have that "rough" look to them and the line down the flat edge that faces you where you can tell it was ground down after the forging.

I have also heard that there may be a height difference in front sights but if so, whats the other height besides F??

Been messing with M16s since the 80s and ARs for the past 4 years and still don't have the definitive answer for you here TDR. Someone will step up with it.

Guest Verbal Kint
Posted (edited)

Here's a decent link to check out... it explains the "F" marking, as well as a lot of other aspects of the AR15, that you might learn from. Good info for those who are new to the platform.

http://forums.officer.com/showthread.php?t=81462

Just scroll down a little ways, and you'll see them talking about the marking on the FSB. Plenty of photos further down in the thread also. :rolleyes:

EDIT: Not familiar with that forum, and never been there before, but came across it while trying to find a good explanation for the question you asked.

I normally lurk over on M4Carbine.Net which has a ton of valuable info on the rifle platform, by professionals and manufacturers, with a collective no-BS allowed attitude. Simply put, it's one of (if not THE, IMO) best forums for the AR rifle. They don't put up with anyone's ego, attitude, or BS... and quickly weed those people out. You'll find a lot of the top AR manufacturers, component manufacturers, and vendors over there in their member base.

Edited by Verbal Kint
Guest Verbal Kint
Posted

Cliffnotes, taken from BCM's website:

T-Marked Upper Receiver

The contemporary M16/M4 rifle is built around the concept of modularity. All of the BCM™ flat top uppers feature a USGI type laser etched T-marks to provide addressing for the remounting of tactical accessories such as optics, laser sights, etc. This enables the weapon platform to be easily configured and then accurately reconfigured for each specific mission.

Mil-Spec F-Marked Forged Front Sight Bases

Mil-Spec for rifles issued to the troops require taller front sight bases on all flat top AR rifles. Many commercial offerings use M16A2 height front sight bases on all of their barrels regardless of what type of upper it is installed on. As a result, owners of rifles and carbines with the flat top receiver configuration can have problems getting a proper 'zero' for elevation with Mil-Spec back up iron sights. As all of the BCM™ uppers are built for flat top uppers, all have the proper Mil-Spec F marked front sight base to insure the correct height for iron sight zeroing when using military iron sights. Mil-Spec taper pins secure the forged front sight base with the sling swivel secured by tubular rivets.

Posted

Never been to M4 before Verbal, nice site, thanks!

So it was the height issue on F markings....and I thought it was myth.

Good info.

T marks would be nice to have if you were throwing different optics on all the time. Not a gotta have in my book though.

TDR,

Thats a great page to start with for more research. Pretty much covers all the good stuff. I haven't read past page 2 yet so I don't know if they have the step by step of how to put a lower together in there or somewhere else on the site but I'm sure they do.

Between M4, ARFCOM and this place...you should have what you need for research...now you just gotta blow the dough!

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