Gun cleaning help

[Guest NotDylan]

I would like some tips on cleaning a semi auto handgun. Currently, I'm scrubbing the gun down using cleaning patches, q-tips, and brushes with Hoppes #9. Then I wipe all that off and apply the CLP as lube that came with my kleen-bore cleaning kit.

With just a basic field strip (which is all I know how to do) there seems to be a lot of parts down in the frame of the gun that I can't quite get to. How do you handle those? Also, applying just the right amount of oil seems to be tricky, any tips for that?

[TripleDigitRide]

I would like some tips on cleaning a semi auto handgun. Currently, I'm scrubbing the gun down using cleaning patches, q-tips, and brushes with Hoppes #9. Then I wipe all that off and apply the CLP as lube that came with my kleen-bore cleaning kit.

With just a basic field strip (which is all I know how to do) there seems to be a lot of parts down in the frame of the gun that I can't quite get to. How do you handle those? Also, applying just the right amount of oil seems to be tricky, any tips for that?

It sounds like you are doing a fine cleaning job. If you are concerned about spaces you can not reach, try using a cleaning spray. Most come with a very thin straw that attaches to the spray nozzle. This will help you get a bit deeper into the gun.

As far as oil goes, usually, a very small amount goes a long way. Put a small amount of oil where needed, put gun back together, then simply wipe off extra oil. Extra oil isn't such a bad thing. The only real drawback to extra oil is the fact that while shooting, crud tends to build up a bit faster. Not realla big deal in most cases.

Best of luck.

[Guest Ranger Rick]

I would like some tips on cleaning a semi auto handgun. Currently, I'm scrubbing the gun down using cleaning patches, q-tips, and brushes with Hoppes #9. Then I wipe all that off and apply the CLP as lube that came with my kleen-bore cleaning kit.

With just a basic field strip (which is all I know how to do) there seems to be a lot of parts down in the frame of the gun that I can't quite get to. How do you handle those? Also, applying just the right amount of oil seems to be tricky, any tips for that?

Cleaning method sounds good. Basic FS is as far as you need to go. Try using a tooth brush to get into places it can reach. I also use a very small screw driver with a piece of an old cut-up tee shirt to get down into other places.

The less lub the better! Suggest you put one drop on the q-tip and very gently touch it to the rails and other recommended areas (from your manual). You want just a very light "film" of oil. Least you can get on it. Any more and it will come out the sides/ends of the slide and get on you.

I clean it after every use. But, it's something I enjoy sitting at my bench and doing too.

[Guest DrBoomBoom]

Sig Saur recommends that you oil areas that are "shiny" because they are getting the wear. They also recommend that you oil it so the oil doesn't pool or run, but just enough of a film that it will leave a fingerprint if you touch it.

[Guest db99wj]

Canned Air is a good tool to have IMO. The kind you get in the office stores, or office product departments. That way you can "blow" some of the crap out of those hard to get places. I carry mine everyday and I get lint way down in my XD and I will just blow it out.

[strickj]

I know they say only FS is needed to clean your gun but I just can not bring myself to do that! It seems like every time I'm cleaning I say to myself "well theres another spot, Ill just go a little further" and that always leads me to a full on detail strip:lol:

Canned Air is a good tool to have IMO. The kind you get in the office stores, or office product departments. That way you can "blow" some of the crap out of those hard to get places. I carry mine everyday and I get lint way down in my XD and I will just blow it out.

Interesting thing you can do with those cans of air is to turn them upside down and spray a leaf or something!

They use freon in those cans which sits at the bottom so when its sprayed upside down it will come out,and whatever you spray will freeze instantly,so when you spray a leaf or something its like an old Mr.Wizard experiment

I learned that trick when I took my ASE air conditioning class a few years back:p

[TGO David]

I use non-chlorinated brake / parts cleaner from the auto parts store to blast the majority of the filth out of my guns. It's usually in a green can and may be labeled under the store's brand name or any variety of manufacturer names. The important part is that it is non chlorinated and marked as being safe for use on automotive plastics.

Typically I will:

... Field strip the weapon

... Douche the individual pieces thoroughly with the aerosol parts cleaner

For The Barrel:

... Run a patch with Hoppes #9 through the bore to get the easy stuff

... Follow with a nylon bore brush and Blue Armadillo bore cleaner to get the lead and copper

... Follow with patches until they come out clean or mostly clean

... Follow with a patch lightly oiled with WeaponShield CLP

... Wipe down the outside of the barrel with the same lightly oiled patch of Weaponshield CLP

For The Slide:

... Scrub the breech face with a nylon toothbrush and Hoppes #9

... Scrub the extractor and extractor channel with same

... Scrub the inside of the dust cover with same

... Wipe all excess and filth away using dry clean patches

... Very small dot of WeaponShield on the firing pin block

... Wipe all external surfaces with a clean patch lightly oiled with WeaponShield CLP

For The Frame:

... Scrub the feed ramp and other "high fouling areas" with nylon or copper brush and Hoppes #9 as dictated by the material and amount of crud

... Small dot of WeaponShield CLP applied to springs and metal-to-metal contact areas

... Small dot of WeaponShield CLP applied to frame-to-slide interface points / slide rails

Final Pass

... Reassemble weapon

... Dry fire a few times to work lubricant into critical areas and expel any excess

... Wipe weapon down with silicone impregnated microfiber cloth (shines it up nicely, removes excess oils)

My regimen is a little more time intensive than what some may use or prescribe, but it works well for me and keeps my weapons looking nice.

[Mike.357]

the best thing I learned about cleaning is that sometimes less cleaning is better than more cleaning.

[TGO David]

the best thing I learned about cleaning is that sometimes less cleaning is better than more cleaning.

It can be. My Glock likes less cleaning, so it gets less cleaning. My Wilson likes to be clean and wet with oil, so that's what it gets. Different strokes for different guns.

[Guest jwp]

We have roughly 50 or so handguns that we rent for use on the range. Everything from S&W .22 revolvers to Desert Eagle 50ae autos and even some submachine guns. These all require regular cleaning and looking after to keep running since they all get shot on a very regular basis.

Before we used our ultra-sonic cleaning station all of the cleaning was done by hand and we found that the less lubricant and solvent used the longer the life of the springs and the less malfunctions experienced during several thousand rounds.

If it is too 'wet' the lube will capture crud and cause the gun to malfunction or even cause excessive wear over a long period of use. Too dry and it won't run and will cause excessive wear over a long period as well. Think of the story of "Goldilocks and the Three Bears."

Also many of us have learned our cleaning techniques from old timers, when guns and the materials used to make guns were not as technologically advanced as they are today. With polymers, alloys and more corrosion resistant metal treatments much of what we do to clean our guns today is overkill. A little solvent, a little oil, wipe it off and go.

[Guest janwbrown616]

Canned Air is a good tool to have IMO. The kind you get in the office stores, or office product departments. That way you can "blow" some of the crap out of those hard to get places. I carry mine everyday and I get lint way down in my XD and I will just blow it out.

Need to be careful with the canned air. A lot of times it contains moisture which can cause some rust, if it sets too long. When we used it on the range, we'd use it first to loosen crud then wipe dry, then use solvent or cleaning agent. Most autos use very, very little lub.

[edellson]

Canned Air is a good tool to have IMO. The kind you get in the office stores, or office product departments. That way you can "blow" some of the crap out of those hard to get places. I carry mine everyday and I get lint way down in my XD and I will just blow it out.

I agree that electronic canned air is the way to blow out lint and other crud that lurks in those hard to get to places. As far as the oil goes no more than 1 small drop on both slide rails is all I ever use, and sometimes thats to much. My rule of thumb is you know its there but you never want to see it or its to much.

[Guest tngunman]

What kind is it again?