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AR15 gas block front sights, opinions?


NoBanStan

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Posted

Afternoon operators,

 

After chatting with a work buddy who frequents TGO, I decided I would pose my questions to the public and get some greatly needed opinions.

 

I have been eyeballing an AR15 for years now and likewise being veto'd by the wife for the same amount of time. Due to obvious recent events, she finally said yes. So I did some gunshow browsing and from the limited selection I picked up a Mohawk Armory AR15 which came with a lovely EOtech (can't remember the model offhand, sorry) but no BUIS. Easy fix, I thought! I'll just buy the magpul flipups and be done with it. But it wasn't until closer inspection that I realized I have one of the gas blocks which sits lower than my rear rail.

 

I know this means no magpul front site because A.) I don't want a riser and B.) I don't want it to melt. So I'm left with the remaining options and I'm not sure which is better.

 

Do I buy a front sight that's meant for this type of block? My problem with this is that I don't really care for most of them i've seen. Plus they are rather expensive. I'd like to have matching manufacturers for both sights but so far it seems like i'm not going to get them for less than around $180 for the set.

 

Or perhaps I should pickup a different gas block? I've not actually taken off a gasblock before, is this something relatively easy to do? I'm mechanically inclinded but not thrilled about anything involving a hammer and a bit of luck on my new purchase. But the idea of co-witnessing the EOtech with a fixed front sight is appealing.

 

Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.

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Posted

Well, I'm sure you'll get a lot of differing opinions on this but I would do one of three things based on cost and easiness:

 

1. Forget magpul and go with troy buis - they make a front for going on railed gas blocks.

 

2. Replace the railed gas block with a standard fixed front sight and get the rear buis of your choice.

 

3. Make your own low-profile gas block by taking the standard fixed sight and dremeling it down, then get a longer rail/handguard system, use whatever front/rear buis you like.

Posted

Well, I'm sure you'll get a lot of differing opinions on this but I would do one of three things based on cost and easiness:

 

1. Forget magpul and go with troy buis - they make a front for going on railed gas blocks.

 

2. Replace the railed gas block with a standard fixed front sight and get the rear buis of your choice.

 

3. Make your own low-profile gas block by taking the standard fixed sight and dremeling it down, then get a longer rail/handguard system, use whatever front/rear buis you like.

 

Thanks, opinions are what i'm after :)

 

I've looked at the troy buis, they're very nice but from what i've seen they are pretty pricey. As you can imagine, i dropped a pretty penny on the rifle itself, so i'm looking to trying to find that "midgrade" set of sights. I don't want cheap flimsy but i dont want anything forged in mordor either... if that makes sense.

 

option 3 for me is out, hah. I got shivers just thinking about it.

Posted
I have a gas block height Midwest Industries that I really like. I also use a Magpul MBUS (I already had a set) with a Yankee Hill gas block riser.
Posted

I would go with number 3 but let someone do it for you.  Send it to ADCO or get MiddleTNGunsmithing to do it.  Prices are around $40 plus shipping. I would then go with a long Troy Alpha rail (13") since i like their look and they are light.

 

However, I would go with Troy Backup Iron Sights.  Don't get the micro ones though, get the full size flip-ups.  That's what i got with a HK Front sight.

Posted

I have a gas block height Midwest Industries that I really like. I also use a Magpul MBUS (I already had a set) with a Yankee Hill gas block riser.

 

I actually like that riser, doesn't seem to be available anywhere though.

Posted
As far as changing the gas block, it's not hard at all if it's a clamp on. Usually an A2 sight/gas block will have taper pins that can be a pain but not complicated. The roll pin that holds the gas tube will have to be driven out with a punch... Not hard just dont loose it. You can use black tape to cover adjacent surfaces to keep from scratching your new gun.

Brownells has great videos that show the process....

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11009/learn/
Posted

I have a gas block height Midwest Industries that I really like.

 

/shameless promotion on

 

I changed out gas blocks from a railed to a low-profile recently, so I have a railed block and Midwest low-profile gas block height front sight for sale in the classifieds.

 

/shameless promotion off

Posted

/shameless promotion on

 

I changed out gas blocks from a railed to a low-profile recently, so I have a railed block and Midwest low-profile gas block height front sight for sale in the classifieds.

 

/shameless promotion off

I'll check it out on my lunch break, thank you.

Posted

As far as changing the gas block, it's not hard at all if it's a clamp on. Usually an A2 sight/gas block will have taper pins that can be a pain but not complicated. The roll pin that holds the gas tube will have to be driven out with a punch... Not hard just dont loose it. You can use black tape to cover adjacent surfaces to keep from scratching your new gun.

Brownells has great videos that show the process....

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=11009/learn/

That doesn't look that bad, good idea with the tape. What's LGO? Sorry, new here.

Posted

Do you use a matching MI rear sight as well? If so which model?

 

No, because it doesn't matter. You can adjust any mixed pair for a good zero. I use Magpul rear sights on all of them. They're backups, and I want the lightest possible option.

Posted

No, because it doesn't matter. You can adjust any mixed pair for a good zero. I use Magpul rear sights on all of them. They're backups, and I want the lightest possible option.

Yea that makes sense. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't some unwritten law that said X brand(s) shouldn't be mixed. I just try to avoid "gotchas".

Posted

Yea that makes sense. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't some unwritten law that said X brand(s) shouldn't be mixed. I just try to avoid "gotchas".

 

I figured. All the rear sights are set at a standard elevation, and you zero your elevation with the front sight. The rear sights are windage adjustable. I normally zero my optic on a rest at the range, and then just zero my backup irons to the optic.

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