New 1911 Break in questions

[Dustbuster]

Have found a load of variable opinions on this topic but figured we would have some folks here w plenty of hands on 1911 experience that could answer and discuss some of the items i posted below

As we all know, any new firearm should be cleaned before use.We all expect any firearm we buy new to work fluidly within reason.Ive learned from elders and experience to work a machine a certain way to allow for parts to "become friendly" so operation becomes smoother with time,and the product has a longer life expectancy.

Heres some questions Ive pondered on 1911's.FWIW Old Marine Corps standards pretty much had one just keeping the old 70's clean and oiled ready to go while maintaining accuracy for 25 feet( if that) lol..The Marine Corps always seemed to get army hand downs but thats another discussion...

 

For our better authorities:

1. Besides reading the manual on the 1911,what are the key lubrication areas to always hit on a 1911
2. Whats your favorite grease to use on a new 1911
3. Whats your fav oil to use on a new 1911?
4. Are you using the newer synthetics or other non petroleum based oils on your 1911?
5. What specific type of round,if any,that  you would use in a new 1911 and do you switch to something else after say 500 rounds?
6. Do you tweak and use stock mags or immediately go out for Chip or Wilson mags?
7. Is polishing the ramp mandatory in your new 1911?( even if not using hollow points?)
8. Are there any parts to replace automatically because more than likely the stock one is junk ?IE MIM parts or slide stops etc.
9. In summary what do you do  to a 1911 that will enable you to be confident in it, to where you can say its broken in and running fine?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

[Dolomite_supafly]

Have found a load of variable opinions on this topic but figured we would have some folks here w plenty of hands on 1911 experience that could answer and discuss some of the items i posted below

As we all know, any new firearm should be cleaned before use.We all expect any firearm we buy new to work fluidly within reason.Ive learned from elders and experience to work a machine a certain way to allow for parts to "become friendly" so operation becomes smoother with time,and the product has a longer life expectancy.

Heres some questions Ive pondered on 1911's.FWIW Old Marine Corps standards pretty much had one just keeping the old 70's clean and oiled ready to go while maintaining accuracy for 25 feet( if that) lol..The Marine Corps always seemed to get army hand downs but thats another discussion...

 

For our better authorities:

1. Besides reading the manual on the 1911,what are the key lubrication areas to always hit on a 1911

I would make sure the GREASE, not oil, the rails. I also GREASE the locking lugs. I GREASE the barrel where it passes through the barrel bushing. I generally put a drop of my oil concoction down on the front of tha hammer while it is cocked. Then I wipe the outside down.

1. Whats your favorite grease to use on a new 1911

I use moly bendum disulfie that can be found at Walmart. It is in the automotive section and is in a gray and blue tube. Look on the back and it will say it is gray in color.

1. Whats your fav oil to use on a new 1911?

I use a 50/50 mix of 30 weight synthetic oil and automatic transmission fluid. If I want carbon cutting properties I add 10% of fuel injector cleaner.

1. Are you using the newer synthetics or other non petroleum based oils on your 1911?

See above

1. What specific type of round,if any,that  you would use in a new 1911 and do you switch to something else after say 500 rounds?

Just make sure you use quality ammunition, other than that shoot away.

1. Do you tweak and use stock mags or immediately go out for Chip or Wilson mags?

I try the factory magazines and if they work I keep them for range use. For carry I always use Chip McCormicks. If any magazine gives you problems mark it and keep it for parts.

1. Is polishing the ramp mandatory in your new 1911?( even if not using hollow points?)

The only way to tell is to shoot the ammunition you plan on carrying. But if you polish the feed ramp you also need to polish the breechface and bevel the extractor.

1. Are there any parts to replace automatically because more than likely the stock one is junk ?IE MIM parts or slide stops etc.

Although not required I did replace all the MIM parts on my carry gun. Not saying they are bad just that I feel more comfortable doing so.

1. In summary what do you do  to a 1911 that will enable you to be confident in it, to where you can say its broken in and running fine?

I shoot my gun and shoot it a lot. After 500 rounds you will be more confident unless the gun does need attention. And any issues will crop up by that 500 round mark.

 

Thanks in advance!

Here is a picture of the bevel I was talking about:

http://www.thefirearmsforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48174&stc=1&d=1308349090

Not my picture and I grabbed ir from here:http://www.1911pro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1481&start=10

[jcj]

What he said. :D I actually use FrogLube on all my firearms now. All of my carry guns are some variation of the 1911. I've yet to buy a 1911 with factory mags that feed as smoothly as Wilson Combat or other high quality mags. I use the Wilsons or Chip McCormick mags for carry. When I get a new 1911 I clean it, give it the FrogLube treatment, and take it to the range for a 200-300 round break in/practice session. The majority of the rounds I use for break in are usually my own handloads or FMJ factory ammo, but I always shoot at least one box of my desired hollow point ammo as well to validate that it will feed properly. If all goes well, the gun gets another cleaning and goes into the carry rotation.

[Dustbuster]

Thanks great info. Especially the extractor part.Is the cleaning formula what they called eds red or reds formula ??

[Dolomite_supafly]

No clue about Ed's red. I think it has a few more ingredients.

[Jonnin]

Have found a load of variable opinions on this topic but figured we would have some folks here w plenty of hands on 1911 experience that could answer and discuss some of the items i posted below

As we all know, any new firearm should be cleaned before use.We all expect any firearm we buy new to work fluidly within reason.Ive learned from elders and experience to work a machine a certain way to allow for parts to "become friendly" so operation becomes smoother with time,and the product has a longer life expectancy.

Heres some questions Ive pondered on 1911's.FWIW Old Marine Corps standards pretty much had one just keeping the old 70's clean and oiled ready to go while maintaining accuracy for 25 feet( if that) lol..The Marine Corps always seemed to get army hand downs but thats another discussion...

 

For our better authorities:

1. Besides reading the manual on the 1911,what are the key lubrication areas to always hit on a 1911
2. Whats your favorite grease to use on a new 1911
3. Whats your fav oil to use on a new 1911?
4. Are you using the newer synthetics or other non petroleum based oils on your 1911?
5. What specific type of round,if any,that  you would use in a new 1911 and do you switch to something else after say 500 rounds?
6. Do you tweak and use stock mags or immediately go out for Chip or Wilson mags?
7. Is polishing the ramp mandatory in your new 1911?( even if not using hollow points?)
8. Are there any parts to replace automatically because more than likely the stock one is junk ?IE MIM parts or slide stops etc.
9. In summary what do you do  to a 1911 that will enable you to be confident in it, to where you can say its broken in and running fine?

 

Thanks in advance!

1) I lube my entire barrel.  I want it to slide nice in the bushing, I want the recoil spring thingy under it to slide along the barrel nice, I want the top of the fram and locking lugs to slide.  It may be excessive, but I coat the whole thing in a very thin grease.  Also the rails of the slide/frame, of course.  A little in the hammer and action now and then.

 

5)  Not sure... I pulled the spring out for a lightweight one and shoot light handloads in mine.   Um, I liked S&B 45's for factory ammo back when I shot that.

 

6) my mags caused nonstop jams so I bought new ones.  I went with chip mc

7) No, you only polish the ramp if it needs it.

8) MIM is fine, in spite of the 1911 snobbery the actual parts work fine most of the time.  Replace the bushing is the first thing I recommend as most have a loose one from the factory.  Second would be a trigger job, but that is expensive.

 

9) Shoot it.  If it gives trouble, then diagnose it and work on the problem.   A 1911 pistolsmith might be able to rack the slide and tell you what it needs by feel, but in general, just shoot it and see unless you have a great deal of experience and skill with the platform. 

Edited December 31, 2012 by Jonnin