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1911. barrel bushing & accuracy.


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Is there such a thing as a barrel bushing that is "too tight"?

 

I'm getting 2-3.5 inch groups with a 1911 right now.  I'm curious what a new barrel bushing will do for accuracy.  The old bushing wasn't loose but it wasn't tight either.

 

The old/stock bushing can be easily removed by hand (barrel slips in/out easily.  it'll fall off the slide if you tip it upside down.  The barrel will freely slide in and out without effort.

 

I ordered an EGW bushing.  The barrel slides in and out with minimal friction just at the tip of the barrel.   It wouldn't fit into the slide so I sanded until it did.  It now requires "moderate" effort to get it in and some bit of elbow grease to get it out.  It definitely needs a wrench to turn.  I am able to pull the slide back and forward without added effort (so there must be enough for the barrel to slightly tilt).

 

Will an overtly tight bushing cause any damage?

 

What kind of accuracy gains have you all gotten after a barrel bushing upgrade?

 

 

 

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More info:

 

This is a pre-e series SW1911.  I have an older thread here where it had some horrible accuracy.  S&W changed out the barrel and it's tightened the groups considerably.  I'm always looking for that ragged one hole though.

 

I'm using hand-loaded ammunition (Winchester cases, Tula primers, 4.3 grains of Bullseye pushing a 200 grain LSWC from Missouri Bullet Company).

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If it is too tight, it will not function, and that will go from a little too tight (jams a lot) to busted (cannot even rack the slide, possibly damage something).

 

It will do a lot for accuracy if the accuracy issue in that gun is caused by the barrel flopping to a new position after every shot.  

 

Typically a bought bushing is too tight and needs to be fitted by a gunsmith...!  I am not sure you can buy any of them and just stick them in without some work (???) in just any gun (could get lucky I guess).

 

The accuracy improvements, unless the original is very, very bad, will be fractions of an inch at 10s of yards, maybe as much as 1 inch at 50 yards (and again, maybe a lot more if the original is super bad).

Edited by Jonnin
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The tight fitting in the slide shouldnt be an issue. Im shocked that the bushing itself didnt need any fitting. I ordered an EGW melt bushing for my colt 1911 and i spent about an hour fitting it myself whenever it got to the point where the barrel would start into the bushing i switched from sanding to polishing. I have heard that the les baer barrel to bushing fit is incredibly tight to where it binds on the barrel and they are known to be very accurate.
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Yep. it's a EGW Melt Bushing as well.  The Inside of the bushing didn't require any fitting.  The SW barrel fits in but but it's tight enough to feel some friction as you insert the bushing.

 

But, it would not fit into the slide at all.  If I remember right, the Slide's ID was .7010 and the Bushings's OD was .7015.   So it took me 1-2 hours to take enough off.  (I used 1000-2000 grit sandpaper with oil and just kept going around the bushing's OD until it went down in size).  Now it fits but it's very tight. 

 

I assume as long as I can hand cycle the gun without it binding, I'm ok?

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I assume as long as I can hand cycle the gun without it binding, I'm ok?

 

Maybe....

 

As long as it is not springing. Springing is when the barrel is pushed up into the slide lugs the bushing is wanting to push it back down. The gun can often function when the barrel is springing, but you will get stringing impacts as the barrel heats up.

 

Also, make sure that when the slide moves forward (on the frame) that the busing is not wanting to take the barrel with it. That will cause malfunctions.....potentially. The barrel should only be pushed back into battery when the barrel hood makes contact with the breach face forcing the barrel to link up.

Edited by timcalhoun
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