Automotive -Electrical- HELP!!!!!!!!!!

[Guest db99wj]

Here's the story:

About 6 months ago and about 6 months before that while my lights were on only, I would put my left blinker on, it would pop the fuse, the dash blinker light would stay on, the blinker outside would stay on and no longer work. I replaced the fuses, replaced the combo flasher, which is around $80 from the dealer, dealer only item, and it seemed to work....until now. Last night, I notice my blinker light and my dash lights, not the ones around my speedo and tach, but the lights around my AC controls and the under dash light by my feet, not the one on the passenger side, and my parking lights and tail lights were out. Brake lights still worked. This of course was only when the lights are on, during the day, everything works that is suppose too. I checked a couple of normal fuses (15amp and 20 amp size) and they seemed ok, will go back and do a better job tonight, I was at work.

Stopped by a shop who charges $81 diagnosis, then $81/hour afterward. If he does the work, he will include that diagnosis as the first hour. He guarantees he will find it, he came highly recommended. I'm not taking this to the dealer, they charge more than that.

What are the possibilities?

My thoughts are worst case, a short somewhere in the steering column, seems that, moving it caused problems a year ago.

Best case, it is my light stalk, it has the blinkers, lights, autolights on it. It is a multifunction stalk. I do have autolights on it as well.

Any ideas, thanks in advance!

[Guest GlocKingTN]

All I can say for sure is that you most certainly have a short somewhere! And if it does it when your lights are on, its possibly the light switch!

[Guest db99wj]

Ok, update, went out and pulled the correct fuse, evidently tail lights and brake lights are on 2 different fuses, I pulled the brake light this afternoon, I was in a suit on lunch and it was hotter than h@#$ outside. Pulled the 15 amp fuse and it was blown. Replaced, all is fine. Still there has to be some type of extremely intermittent (6 month) issue that is causing my problems. I would rather not spend any money to "find" it and have a solution that may or may not work, but I would like to have an idea where I could start saving a little money to fix it. If it is the multifunction stalk switch, then it will need to be replaced, when I have the money.

Glocking, I am leaning heavily toward the switch, I have only had problems when the lights are on. I'm willing to bet there is a car stereo/'electrical guru on here somewhere!

[Guest Archimedes]

Do any of your lights ever have condensation in them?

Any moisture in the light housing can cause corrosion to bridge between the opposing terminals ultimately causing a short.

The cheapest way out for now is to inspect all of the bulbs and sockets in question beginning with the most easily accessed.

Keep us posted. Good Luck!

~Archi

[Guest Archimedes]

Ok, update, went out and pulled the correct fuse, evidently tail lights and brake lights are on 2 different fuses, I pulled the brake light this afternoon, I was in a suit on lunch and it was hotter than h@#$ outside. Pulled the 15 amp fuse and it was blown. Replaced, all is fine. Still there has to be some type of extremely intermittent (6 month) issue that is causing my problems. I would rather not spend any money to "find" it and have a solution that may or may not work, but I would like to have an idea where I could start saving a little money to fix it. If it is the multifunction stalk switch, then it will need to be replaced, when I have the money.

Glocking, I am leaning heavily toward the switch, I have only had problems when the lights are on. I'm willing to bet there is a car stereo/'electrical guru on here somewhere!

Is this a Ford?

~Archi

[Guest db99wj]

It is a Jeep, 99 Grand Cherokee, 105K on the ticker, typically they have not had many electrical issues....I will start pulling bulbs, it did rain Saturday, this happened Sunday. It is suppose to rain tomorrow, we will see if it does it again. Might have a spot that is getting damp.

I know why you asked if it is a Ford, we had an Expedition that for no apparent reason, the wipers would turn on once or twice, couldn't make it happen and never knew when it would happen, didn't have to hit a bump, could be sitting still. Have a cousin that his expedition did the same type of things, he knew someone with a F150 that did it.

[shaftbass]

Do you by any chance have a trailer light harness on the vehicle?

[Guest db99wj]

Do you by any chance have a trailer light harness on the vehicle?

Yes. Been on it since before I got it which was 3 and a half years ago.. it is the old style harness, the connector is flat and has 3 (I think) female slots and 1 male prong. (I hope that makes since)

[molonlabetn]

Do you by any chance have a trailer light harness on the vehicle?

That's what I would think too... or perhaps an aftermarket car alarm. I've seen examples of both wired in ways which would make an electrician puke and cry. Check where these are connected first.

I've also seen one bad bulb short out an entire circuit, even if the bulb itself was still lighting up... and, as mentioned above, condensation can many-times cause this (corrosion, etc...).

[shaftbass]

Yea, I would inspect that trailer harness. Make sure there is nowhere in the connectors where water is getting in and corroding the wires. It may not be the problem, but since your problem is involving blinkers and parking lights, it's likely to be the cause of the problem.

[Guest db99wj]

Still haven't done any investigation, but last night my lights were working fine, I had replaced the fuse, and put on my blinker, "pop" there goes the fuse, radio lights, lights around my ac dials, no tail lights or parking lights, no more 15amp fuses, just a 20 or 25 and a 10, so I popped the 20 or 25 in and off I go with lights again, didn't use my blinker, might need blinker fluid???. This morning, my Check Guages light came on, my oil pressure is down to 0 to 2lbs of pressure. Ran my OBD test by cycling the ignition key, nothing came out of it, took it to a oil change place where a friend use to work, needed the oil changed anyway, did that, still the light and no oil pressure. They ran a test on it with their diagnostic tool, nothing everything fine.

So, could this be related with my electrical or do I have an oil sending unit going out? Seems like the diagnostic tests would have caught the sending unit and this seems more like a guage/fuse issue.

:itspaidforitspaidforitspaidforitspaidforitspaidfor:

[molonlabetn]

Hmmm... knowing nothing else about what is under the dash, I would have to assume that there was a 15a fuse in the box for a reason... the higher threshold may have allowed the short to fry some of your instrumentation.

I hope not... and it could be totally un-related, but that's my guess.

As to the underlying problem... I'm still sticking to the thought that it is likely a security system or trailer wiring system which has been 'improperly installed' (to be PC about it).

Best of luck...

[shaftbass]

no more 15amp fuses, just a 20 or 25 and a 10, so I popped the 20 or 25 in and off I go with lights again

Just remember, that fuse is a 15 amp for a reason. Replacing it with a higher amperage could cause damage in the future when it shorts again, ie, melted wires or possibly even fire. The fuse is the weak link, it's designed to pop before damage to anything.

[Guest Archimedes]

For sure....If I were gonna use anything other than a 15, I'd go lower.

If you used a 25, that's almost double what the circuit is rated to handle!!!

~Archi

[jgrauman]

trace the wires back from the fuse panel to the blinkers, should be in a bundle with some sort of flex conduit over it. might have to cut a few zip ties, but you either have a nick in a wire that is occasionally grounding out, a corroded connection at the actual blinker housing or a bad connection at the fuse panel. if this short is grouding out on the chassis it could blow multiple fuses at random. if you have narrowed it down to the only time this happens is when you turn on your blinker than your problem is on that circuit. go buy yourself some 15a fuses and check it out, save you $80. and for heavens sake take out that 20a-25a fuse, you're going to really mess something up! i've seen people burn down houses doing that!

[Guest db99wj]

Ok, fuse is out It was a get me to the store type thing, didn't want a ticket or rear ended, where I was there were no street lights.

[Guest db99wj]

More info. By the way the 15amp fuse is back in. The oil pressure guage works when I am at speed and at running rpm, it drops when I stop.

[jgrauman]

More info. By the way the 15amp fuse is back in. The oil pressure guage works when I am at speed and at running rpm, it drops when I stop.

it will, as long as it doesn't drop to 0 then you're okay

[Guest db99wj]

it will, as long as it doesn't drop to 0 then you're okay

there lies the potential of a problem, it drops to 1 to 3 range, the check guages light comes on. Got plenty of oil, no loss of power, no lifter noise, nothing, still sounds and runs great. I was low on oil. That has since been fixed.

Oil sending unit is about $40. I believe it is on the back side of the block....somewhere!

[jgrauman]

there lies the potential of a problem, it drops to 1 to 3 range, the check guages light comes on. Got plenty of oil, no loss of power, no lifter noise, nothing, still sounds and runs great. I was low on oil. That has since been fixed.

Oil sending unit is about $40. I believe it is on the back side of the block....somewhere!

if you were low on oil then the pressure will be low, after adding oil are you still low on pressure

[Guest db99wj]

I was on the add line of the dip stick. The oil pressure gauge will read from 1 to 3 with the check gauge light on at idle. At speed with the RPM's at driving speed, the pressure hangs out at 40, which is normal. My pressure gauge has been normal until this morning, it was an all of a sudden thing.

[Guest db99wj]

Ok, get in the stupid thing today to go to Sam's, which is closed today, and my Oil pressure gauge is working fine, even after multiple stops and turning on and off the engine, my lights are working fine, even when I try to duplicated the problems before.

Things that I have noticed. It hasn't rained in a few days, all my lights are secure, not loose, sealed that I can see. The trailer light harness, which has been mentioned, which has been on it since I've had it, bought Nov 2002, is intact, didn't see anything evident, but it is very stiff and doesn't bend like a new wire should or would. Could this thing be developing cracks and when it rains starts shorting sh@#$ out?

Drama, drama, drama :bangshead: