Scope Mounting - Need Help

[MiddTennTaco]

I think I've gotten myself in a pickle here. Basically I've got a Ruger American on the way in the next week or so. It's chambered in .270 which is what I believe to be long action. I've also got a Simmons Whitetail Classic 6-20x50 scope on the way.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/746570/simmons-whitetail-classic-rifle-scope-65-20x-50mm-adjustable-objective-truplex-reticle-matte?cm_cat=Cart&cm_pla=ProductDesc

While I have been researching what ring height I would need (Warne Maxima rings, low-med-high) I stumbled upon a review where the user had the same rifle chambered in 308 short action with the same exact scope. (Still not sure what ring height I need, I want it as low as possible.)

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5109851

He mentioned having a problem mounting the scope far back enough to get proper eye relief. If I am not mistaken, am I basically screwed with a long action? The scope is 14 inches long so I figured I wouldn't have a problem mounting it. It has a 3.75" eye relief which is normal from what I understood.

I have been researching for hours now in how to compensate for this potential problem. Is having a long action actually THIS problematic or am I seeing a problem where there isn't one?

PS: By the way! I also read another review that said when you mount a scope in the rings that you need a torque driver set to 20lbs so its tight enough without being over-tightened. Do I really need one? I don't want it loose and flopping about. I also don't want to break my scope before I even shoot it!

Damn a bolt action rifle... None of the other guns I've ever had were this complicated or caused this much stress.

[D3vo]

I have the same scope and as I recall the mounts are considered high. I went to Bass Pro with the scope details. They looked it up and handed me the mount and rings.

[gregintenn]

I wouldn't think you would have an eye relief problem, but in case you do, Weaver makes offset mounts to accomoday short scopes, incorrect eye relief, etc. As for the torque, just turn the screws good and tight without trying to twist the heads off. I've mounted close to 100 scopes, and never used a torque driver, and never had any problems. Chill out...you are way overthinking this. Let us know how the Ruger shoots.

Oh yeah, you'll probably need high rings for that monster scope.

[RED333]

[quote name='gregintenn' timestamp='1352860617' post='845181']
Chill out...you are way overthinking this.
[/quote]I just had to tell my Son the very samething with iron sights.

[Romad7]

I don't have a lot of experience to have a feel for torquing the screws so I got this, http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Firearms-Accurizing-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=pd_sbs_sg_1

I like to be sure that I am not over or under torquing my scopes. I recommend that wrench if you decide together one.

[Reservoir Dog]

You may be able to get away with medium rings. I know several people who use medium rings with a 50mm scope. It all depends on the barrel profile, and the type of rings. I would give the mediums a try first, then move up to high if you need to.

[MiddTennTaco]

[quote name='gregintenn' timestamp='1352860617' post='845181']
I wouldn't think you would have an eye relief problem, but in case you do, Weaver makes offset mounts to accomoday short scopes, incorrect eye relief, etc. As for the torque, just turn the screws good and tight without trying to twist the heads off. I've mounted close to 100 scopes, and never used a torque driver, and never had any problems. Chill out...you are way overthinking this. Let us know how the Ruger shoots.

Oh yeah, you'll probably need high rings for that monster scope.
[/quote]

The only reason I think I might have problems with eye relief is because of the long action. Spread the scope rings farther apart and there is less wiggle room for a scope with little eye relief. I may try to see if any of my mechanic friends have a torque driver. Thanks for the response.

[quote name='RED333' timestamp='1352865672' post='845264']
I just had to tell my Son the very samething with iron sights.
[/quote]

Yeah, I've been frantically googling all evening. I just need to calm down and see what happens.

[quote name='Reservoir Dog' timestamp='1352870555' post='845313']
You may be able to get away with medium rings. I know several people who use medium rings with a 50mm scope. It all depends on the barrel profile, and the type of rings. I would give the mediums a try first, then move up to high if you need to.
[/quote]

I went ahead and ordered high Warne scope rings (.500"). I wish I had thought of getting the medium rings (.375) first that way I would at least know if they fit. Now I will got high rings that will fit for sure and no clue whether or not mediums will fit. I may order medium Warne's later and return them/sell them here if they don't fit.

-----------------------------------------------

Thanks for all the help folks, I appreciate it. I'll be sure to post up some eye candy when everything comes together and maybe a few shot up targets!

[MiddTennTaco]

Well this turned out nearly awful. Mounted the scope, yes the high rings were necessary. Went to zero it today and the scope rings were sliding off the bases. No wonder I was having a hard time zeroing. Came home, had an epiphany. Removed scope, removed bases, turned bases around to make the distance between them shorter so I could use the scope ring locking crossbars and also bring the scope a whole ten feet closer to me for more comfortable eye relief. Also found out I hate my newly acquired shooting rest. Remembered when i got home that I had a cheap bipod. Figured out how to adjust focus ring properly. Aggravating day but all set to go next time.

Sent from my HTC Inspire using Tapatalk 2

[DaveTN]

With scope rings and bases all the fits are critical. Does your base not have slots in it that the cross screws set in so they can’t slide? If they are sliding they either don’t fit the base properly or they aren’t torqued properly. Torque is critical for fit and repeatability.

If you are going to be changing scopes or working on guns a torque wrench is a must. I use a Wheeler FAT wrench.
[url="http://www.midwayusa.com/product/718023/wheeler-engineering-fat-firearm-accurizing-torque-torque-wrench-screwdriver?cm_vc=2130BrandPopProd"]http://www.midwayusa.com/product/718023/wheeler-engineering-fat-firearm-accurizing-torque-torque-wrench-screwdriver?cm_vc=2130BrandPopProd[/url]

Scope rings around Murfreesboro are hard to find, but I have had good luck in finding something to get me by at Dick’s until I can order the good stuff.

[RED333]

New Academy sports on Sam Ridley in Smyrna.

[DaveTN]

[quote name='RED333' timestamp='1353250528' post='847591']
New Academy sports on Sam Ridley in Smyrna.
[/quote]
Is that open now?

[RED333]

Here is the number
I do believe they are, was over that way this past week, lot full of cars.
They are behind Wendys.

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[mikegideon]

[quote name='DaveTN' timestamp='1353242806' post='847523']
With scope rings and bases all the fits are critical. Does your base not have slots in it that the cross screws set in so they can’t slide? If they are sliding they either don’t fit the base properly or they aren’t torqued properly. Torque is critical for fit and repeatability.

If you are going to be changing scopes or working on guns a torque wrench is a must. I use a Wheeler FAT wrench.
[url="http://www.midwayusa.com/product/718023/wheeler-engineering-fat-firearm-accurizing-torque-torque-wrench-screwdriver?cm_vc=2130BrandPopProd"]http://www.midwayusa...130BrandPopProd[/url]

Scope rings around Murfreesboro are hard to find, but I have had good luck in finding something to get me by at Dick’s until I can order the good stuff.
[/quote]

Agree 100% on the fat wrench. I have even started lapping scope rings. Even one piece mounts can benefit. I normally put a drop of blue Loctite on all the threats too. Even torque is real helpful, but screws can shoot loose over time.

BTW... I would think Outpost has anything you need. Edited November 18, 2012 by mikegideon

[DaveTN]

[quote name='mikegideon' timestamp='1353255037' post='847645']


Agree 100% on the fat wrench. I have even started lapping scope rings. Even one piece mounts can benefit. I normally put a drop of blue Loctite on all the threats too. Even torque is real helpful, but screws can shoot loose over time.

[/quote]
I know a lot of people use Loctite, but I just can’t bring myself to use it. I’ve drilled out too many screws and bolts that had the heads stripped out or were broken trying to take them out that were sealed with sealants. Scopes are too fragile and expensive to run that risk. Hit them with a torque wrench once a year (more often if need be).

[mikegideon]

[quote name='DaveTN' timestamp='1353255772' post='847652']
I know a lot of people use Loctite, but I just can’t bring myself to use it. I’ve drilled out too many screws and bolts that had the heads stripped out or were broken trying to take them out that were sealed with sealants. Scopes are too fragile and expensive to run that risk. Hit them with a torque wrench once a year (more often if need be).
[/quote]

It's all in the color. Blue (242) doesn't put any serious stress on the screws when you remove them. Red is another story... get out the torch. I use blue on adjustable triggers too. I never use red unless I want the equivalent of a tack weld. That never happens on a gun.

Surefire even ships 242 with their lights for use on their mounting kits. I've never had a problem, and move optics around quite a bit.