Smith and Wesson 686

[zybysco]

Just picked up an early 80s model. There are some black marks on the stainless steel. Any recommendations for removing them? I don't want to do anything harsh. Thanks for any input.

[Garufa]

Excellent handguns. FYI, there was a recall on the first generation of them (no dash models). If I recall correctly an "M" mark in the cylinder crane means it went back to the factory. Not a big deal, just throwing that out.

What kind a black marks? Will CLP or some other type oil not take it off? Some Flitz polish might help.

[zybysco]

[IMG]http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l553/zybysco/2012-11-10_21-18-06_397.jpg[/IMG] Edited November 11, 2012 by zybysco

[zybysco]

[IMG]http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l553/zybysco/2012-11-10_21-15-59_67.jpg[/IMG]

[zybysco]

I read that about the recall. Heard mixed reviews as to whether to do it or not.

[VERO1]

The spots look like a little corrosion. Probably going to need an abrasive pad and some oil to clean it up. Go slowly and don't get to aggressive with it.

[zybysco]

Details what I should start with? The gun has been sitting in the attic a long time. The previous owner had forgotten about it.

[RichardR]

I would use a cotton cloth & semi-chrome polish, should take that right off without scaring up the gun

[zybysco]

Tried that. Looks a little better. Definitely still there though.

[VERO1]

Try one of the Scotch Brite pads made for scrubbing pots and pans with some oil. Lowes and Home Depot sell more abrasive ones in the paint department for paint stripping. Use oil and light pressure to polish it up. Take your time.

[zybysco]

What kind of oil?

[VERO1]

Any kind of gun oil or sewing machine oil. Something like Rem oil will work. You probably won't get it all off, but you should be able to make it less noticeable Edited November 11, 2012 by VERO1

[zybysco]

Would a dremel with a cotton pad and polish be a bad idea?

[TNWNGR]

Unless you have a steady hand and can avoid creating an unlevel surface I wouldn’t recommend using a Dremil. I’ve used Flitz on a cotton or wool pad with a sanding block or wooden dowel rod to gently remove surface corrosion. I’ve also used very fine steel wool dipped in CLP to ease across problem areas moving as slowly as I could to avoid swirls and scratches. A good gunsmith who does a lot of hot bluing and is a first class buffing machine operator can clean up a stainless steel gun or do a light media blasting that looks fantastic.

[gregintenn]

try a piece of 0000 steel, or if you can find it, brass wool, with oil. Mag wheel polish will remove any swirls or unsightly marks.

[zybysco]

I have MAAS metal polish. How does that compare?

[Ray Z]

Hold on there bobba louie! Before you go to those extreems, try automobile cleaner wax. I never was able to get the stuff off the front of the cylinder but the stuff on the sides came off with good ol simonize and cloth towel.

[DaveTN]

[quote name='zybysco' timestamp='1352602458' post='843512']
Details what I should start with? The gun has been sitting in the attic a long time. The previous owner had forgotten about it.
[/quote]
I love cleaning stainless; you can make it look brand new. Get enough Hoppe’s or M-Pro 7 to soak the gun overnight, you will need that if you become a gun nut anyway. That will release the carbon on the front of the cylinder and the rest of the gun, so you can scrub it away with a tooth brush.

Use Happich Semi chrome or Mothers Magwheel Polish to polish the gun. Any very fine metal polish may work; these are just two that I know for sure work very well.

Don’t use a Dremel tool it’s too small and can leave indentations quickly. If you want to polish with a buffer use a bench buffer with about an 8” wheel and buffing rouge. Makes short work of it and maintains a better surface area.

The trick to removing pitting is maintaining surface smoothness and integrity. If you put a wave or indentation in the metal surface you can spot it a mile away. If the pits are very deep; don’t try to take them out. If they aren’t they have to be blended over the entire surface. Once the surface is the way you want it to be it is either polished to a mirror finish or glass bead blasted.

[zybysco]

I already have Hoppes and several clps. Already a gun nut, just never had a stainless before. I do have some 2000 grit polish. Just wanted to start off safe as possible.

[DaveTN]

[quote name='zybysco' timestamp='1352652329' post='843769']
I already have Hoppes and several clps. Already a gun nut, just never had a stainless before. I do have some 2000 grit polish. Just wanted to start off safe as possible.
[/quote]
Having enough gun cleaner to fully submerge a 686 is the sign of a true gun nut. [img]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/TourGlide/Web%20Stuff/biggrin.gif[/img]
Good luck with your project. [img]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/TourGlide/Web%20Stuff/thumbsup.gif[/img]

You can’t hurt stainless unless you do something to change its shape.

[zybysco]

The 0000 steel wool helped a lot. Got the smaller spots out. Still have two spots left. You can fill it recessed some. May just leave it. What do you recommend as a final polish to remove all the swirl marks?

[DaveTN]

[quote name='zybysco' timestamp='1352671952' post='843917']
The 0000 steel wool helped a lot. Got the smaller spots out. Still have two spots left. You can fill it recessed some. May just leave it. What do you recommend as a final polish to remove all the swirl marks?
[/quote]
I use Happich Semi chrome (Preferred) or Mothers Magwheel Polish (worked okay until I could get more semi-chrome) on a soft cotton cloth or a gun cleaning patch.

[zybysco]

I'll order some of that and give it a whirl. Now I just need to get some fancy grips. Edited November 12, 2012 by zybysco

[VERO1]

You should be able to find Semichrome at a good hardware store, or most motorcycle shops carry it.

[zybysco]

Tried Mother's mag and semi chrome. Still has swirl marks. Looks a little better though. Any other advice or keep rubbing until my hand cramps? The pitted spots look better but still there.