Grease and Oil

[knox]

Years ago, I found out that modern Car oil (NON energy conserving) was perfectly fine for my motorcycles. All that the manual called for was a specific weight. So I ran Castrol GTX in my CBR with a Wix car oil filter and never had a single problem. AND, I saved quite a bit of money on my oil changes. It has never been proven that motorcycle specific motor oil or filter is any better than automobile oil and filter.

Now, let's talk about guns. I am seeing a lot of people having great success with Automobile oil on their guns, and Wheel Bearing Grease on their slides.

Aside from the smell of gun oil - which I seem to have an affinity for, is anyone else saving money by using Auto Oil and Grease for their firearms? One quart of $7 - $12 Synthetic oil will last for years. A tub of $6 Wheel Bearing Grease will last a lifetime.

So, is this a good way to avoid paying high price for Gun Specific lubes, which might be the same darn thing- marketed for guns with ridiculously inflated prices?

Look forward to your thoughts.

Also, what weight oil do you use if you follow this form of maintenance? Edited November 3, 2012 by knox

[knox]

By the way, I know there are varying opinions all over the net on this topic. I have been reading them for 2 days.

I am just curious what the fine people here in TN do, or think about it.

[I_Like_Pie]

ATF and a can of moly grease for less than $10 are all I will ever need for the rest of my life. acetone and kerosene mixed with the ATF is my Hoppes substitute.

Many, many thousands of rounds and nothing other than normal usage wear on any of my guns.
I still use CLP as a wipe down.

[SlapChopDonkey]

For my long guns, I've been using Mobil 1 for a few years now, and it's been working great. This includes while deployed. For my carry guns, I use TW-25B grease. It works great. It also doesn't run off the gun, so it doesn't stain my clothes.

[Dolomite_supafly]

For when I need a oil based lube I use 50/50 ATF and synthetic oil. If I want cleaning properties I will add 10% fuel injector cleaner to the mix.

For grease I use molybendum disulfide. Grease is what I use on rails and lugs. Dirt and debris will settle on top and not get worked in like with oil. Another advantage is the grease does not move.

Dolomite

[SlapChopDonkey]

[quote name='Dolomite_supafly' timestamp='1351962712' post='838387']?.. I want cleaning properties I will add 10% fuel injector cleaner to the mix...

Dolomite[/quote]
Haven't thought of that. I'll give it a shot. I assume fuel injector cleaner works well on carbon removal. How does it do on copper fouling?

[knox]

Nice to see the replies. Thanks!

[graycrait]

[url="http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html"]http://www.grantcunn...ricants101.html[/url]

If you need more than this I'm not sure who could be more comprehensive. Talking to an old friend in Army Ordnance and his CW4 who has been a weapons guy nearly his whole career, well, they preach CLP.

Most guys I know over clean their guns (at least compared to me) and I don't have so many that shear numbers prevent me from seeing all of them every couple of weeks. Therefore I think some lube is better than none, less lube is generally better than more lube. I like to apply oil with needle oilers so that I con't get gobs of it down an action.

I do like Frog Lube on my .22LR bolts, receiver innards and even on the breech face. Cleanup is a snap and Frog Lube by itself is non-Toxic.

I totally agree with Dolomite.

I had the opportunity to chat wiht Mobile petroleum product engineers one time and spent some time learning about lubes from an old patent agent who for many years was a hydraulic systems engineer.

Then there is this. Between Cunningham and Harris they probably have most of it covered: [url="http://home.comcast.net/~dsmjd/tux/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm"]http://home.comcast....ech/eds_red.htm[/url] Edited November 3, 2012 by graycrait

[knox]

Interesting reads. Thanks for the links.

[graycrait]

So lets say that you want to sell gun oil as a sideline to your motor oil product. Roughly a 55gal of motor oil can be had for 700.00, but you can get cheaper as quantity goes up. but let's just say 55 gal for 700.

You throw a little of this and that which may add 100.00 to the "secret" oil formula. Then you have to package and market it. Let's say you sell it in 2oz bottles, then that over 55 gal now with some secret additives gives you 3500 bottles of oil. Then at $5.00 bucks per 2 oz you make a tidy profit by calling your relatively generic lube "GUN LUBE."

I may be cynical but somehow I doubt anyone is sitting in some lab working for years concocting gun lube to be sold in small quantities. I suspect what works for one product probably works for similar products with a minor twist to make it look good to the gun buying public.

[Pat]

Well, I use Singer sewing machine oil on my guns. Works just fine. Grease-wise, well, a tube of Hoppe's has lasted at least four years now and was only maybe half-full then, so I really can't complain there...

[Jonnin]

the only issues I am aware of on what you can use is whether it has any effect on metal or plastic or wood finish depending on the firearm. Motor oils and gas and such CAN damage plastics of some varieties and some wood finishes.

[jtmaze]

I have been reading the ABCs of reloading and they recommend a water based cleaner for corrosive primed ammo in Mosins and such. I have been using CLP on them thus far but am wondering what are your thoughts on Berdan primer cleanup.


JTM
Sent from my iPhone

[TrickyNicky]

[quote name='jtmaze' timestamp='1351978141' post='838481']
I have been reading the ABCs of reloading and they recommend a water based cleaner for corrosive primed ammo in Mosins and such. I have been using CLP on them thus far but am wondering what are your thoughts on Berdan primer cleanup.


JTM
Sent from my iPhone
[/quote]

I've heard that windex works well for neutralizing the salts in corrosive ammo, just spray enough through the chamber so it drips out the barrel and then clean as normal when you get home.

I've been using balistol for about a year now and really like it. Read that it took care of the salts and so far that has been my experience. Plus it's a good CLP as well, great stuff IMO. Smells a bit funky but its all good, I just crack open a bottle of hoppes to make the room smell "right" for gun cleaning.

[Sam1]

The molecular structure of the oils is different no friction modifiers as well. And not only considering that, bike oils handle severe heat cycles better because they are much worse than vehicle cycles (car oils for racing are much more expensive).

With that said, just because a lubricant seems to work by looking at it, doesn't mean it is functioning properly.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

[Clod Stomper]

I've always just used hot, soapy water followed by hot clean water. And then re-oil the bore.

If you can't get to it right away, good ol' WD-40 does a good job of keeping the bore from rusting until you can clean it. Don't wait weeks, but a few days will be fine. Soak it well.

Will

[glock55]

As a mechanic with 34 yrs experience i dont want auto lubes on my glocks or long guns. I have seen what the additives can do to plastic connectors over time and its not pretty. I'm not sure if polymer will react the same way but not willing to risk it on my guns. As for wheel bearing grease it tends to thicken up at colder temps so could make gun cycle slow. Other members seem to be using these lubes with satifactory results so my suspicions may be misguided.

I have recently changed my cleaning products to Butches Bore Shine for the bores and mil-comm lubes. My reading indicates that Butches is not caustic and I find it cleans fowling and copper from the bore very well. My long guns then get lubed with Mc 2500 as needed and run better than ever. My glocks bores are cleaned with Butches and lubed with Mc 2500. All other lube points get TW25-B and they run and cycle better than ever. I have also noticed the lube stays were you put it and does not seem to collect as much holster crud as past lubes.

Hope this helps Edited December 9, 2012 by glock55

[Mike]

I have been using wheel bearing grease for several years now. No issues hot or cold(TN cold) at all.

Mike

[daddyo]

Non-chlorinated brake cleaner is what I use to clean my weapons, followed by Mobil One Synthetic for lubrication and preventing rust. Edited December 9, 2012 by DaddyO

[Jonnin]

I was using 3 in 1 oil on mine. You have to apply it often, but it worked well. One of my guns was being very, very picky and several folks said to swap to grease so, not having much in the way of grease on hand, I tried out my case lube. It has worked great so far as a grease, using the unique (think its hornady branded) case lube as a grease. Cheap, it goes on very thin.

[RWF]

only in cold weather with light loads on a M2 bolt 0-20 mobil 1with just a little mil-tec added, nothing else

[tnroadrunner]

I use AMSOIL motor oil on all my guns as well as my vehicles and all run well.

[chances R]

Mobil 1 5W and Lubriplate. If in a hurry or need a little lube Hornady One Shot for convenience.

[BC in TN]

I wouldn't be opposed to using auto grease/lubricants on my firearms in a pinch.

However, a small container of REM OIL will usually last a few years around my house.

I also use Gunslick Anhydrous Graphite (Grease) - a little goes a long way.

 

So, I'd recommend using the product specific items unless you really use large quantities.

[East_TN_Patriot]

I wouldn't be opposed to using auto grease/lubricants on my firearms in a pinch.

However, a small container of REM OIL will usually last a few years around my house.

I also use Gunslick Anhydrous Graphite (Grease) - a little goes a long way.

 

So, I'd recommend using the product specific items unless you really use large quantities.

That's my philosophy.  A $5 bottle of Break Free will last me several years and I only need about 1 jar of Hoppes per year, so the convenience factor of not needing to mix up my own concoction and risk it not doing as good a job is worth the added cost.